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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, we're just starting the process of relocating our HT to a different section of our basement to hopefully improve the overall layout. The main area is open, no dedicated theater room, so I have two options for placement and after 13 years or so, it's time for a change.

The current screen is a paint mix that was formulated by MississippiMan a number of years ago and it's worked out really well. My original thought for this new spot was to use the same paint (if the leftovers are still good), same trim/crown moulding and in-wall speakers. Unfortunately the stud structure in that exterior wall (walk-out basement) makes placing the speakers on both sides of the screen nearly impossible. AT screen material will allow me to move the speakers, center channel included, behind the screen.

After some research into commercially available AT material, I found myself here reading about spandex for DIY. I LIKE DIY. And, like the DIY painted screen, MississippiMan is here to help. I asked him some questions in another thread that were specific to this project, they are copied below along with his answers

Quote:
1. The room is not completely light controlled, during the day there is some leakage through the blinds, this is usually video game time for our son so I'm not super worried about it, movie time is usually pretty dark. Use 2 layers - white over black?

MM Answer: Yes.....Milliskin 4-Way Stretch ....you will need 2.5 Yards of ea.


Quote:
2. I'd like the frame to be low profile, 3/4" thick, I assume the wall color behind 2 layer white over black spandex is a moot point (?) or could there be bounce back if the wall is light beige.

MM Answer: Well, a 3/4" Low Profile screen frame consists of course of 1x3s laid flat. That requires that a additional stand-off of Quarter Round be applied around the edges to raise the surface of the Spandex layers off the face of the 1x3 Lumber.


Quote:
3. A distance recommendation. The screen size is 96" diag. 16:9 (currently). The PJ is an Epson Powerlite 8350, 1080p, 2000 lumens. 14' would be great from an aesthetic standpoint, would like to hear your thoughts on that distance with this PJ. Can be less if necessary.

MM Answer: You can get by with 14'. 12' would be better......10' would be terrific as far as delivering the brightness that would make the Spandex "PoP" like the screen paint did.
You could mount the 8350 up almost against the Ceiling using the right type mount, keeping it as musch "out of sight" as possible,


Quote:
4. In the post that I quoted you mention the stretch, spandex needs to be pretty tight to avoid sag? I have yet to research the frame construction as this whole project just materialized this morning.

MM Answer: Pretty sure I was referring to a Screen build that was quite a bit larger than 84" x 47" (actual 96" image area). You won't need to pull it all that tight...just firmly enough that it doesn't sag downward when you have the Screen laying flat on the Floor. Also since your placing the screen onto a beige wall, it would be advisable to construct the screen with at least an additional 2" wide Black border to avoid any light spillage off the edges onto the wall.


Quote:
Thanks in advance for your help.


MM Answer: Your very welcome.....always a pleasure to hear back from a older member who wants to move forward into previously uncharted realms. I'll make you up a straightforward design that will address all your needed points. But please author a dedicated Thread for me to post it onto as this one is pretty much devoted to discussion. I'll have it ready to post when you do.

Oh hell.....here it is. Copy and re-post it on your new Build Thread. I'll be out and about until late today, and when I return if you've done so I'll delete this Post.
 

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· DIY Granddad (w/help)
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@GuitarMike


Absolutely...do the 10' Throw if you can because of the proportionately higher Lumen / Foot Lambert values you will achieve.



Now then.................



The surrounding Black Velvet Border can be handled in a few different ways.

If you have a Table Saw available, you've got the tool you need to make a perfect Border by ripping 1.5" strips off 3.5" Mdf Base Molding and then attaching them to all the sides, over the Wrapped Spandex material. You will have a very thin,(1/2") virtually "edge-less" screen, but one that does have a small area where slight amounts of excess light spill can be absorbed.

A micro-thin border will compliment your smaller sized screen much more than would a wide border....and by placing the Boarder on the outside of the Frame, you eliminate the issues you might have otherwise by trying to overlap the Quarter Round.


Want something just a bit wider? Rip 1x2 Poplar in half and set it "on Edge" against the Frame for a full 3/4" wide border.

Another choice is illustrated below.....a overlapping of the Spandex just past the Quarter Round with a Black Velvet Wrapped 1x3 ripped to 2" wide.
(...or the dimensions of the Screen Frame and positioning of the Quarter Round could be adapted to accommodate the use of stock dimensional 1x2s for the Wrapped Trim....)


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@MississippiMan

Yep, I have table saw. I'm not sure I understand the MDF base molding idea (I know the molding itself). Is that used as a standoff where the wide edge (that was cut on the table saw) would be against the wall and the pointy edge would be directed at the viewer?

You can see the current screen trim below, overspill isn't too bad. I originally planned to move the fluted side boards and crown molding to the new spot, but the thickness of the new screen frame structure has me scratching my head on what I want to do. Thinking it might be nice to have easy access for replacing the white spandex if needed, my luck someone will splash chili on it :).

Also, it looks like it will be 9' from the wall to the center of the PJ mount and the couch we be directly under it. Now I'm concerned that the screen might be too high sitting on top of a 36" chair rail. We watched a movie last night with the couch slid forward so our heads were about 10' from the screen, seemed ok....

Here's the current screen and a detail shot. In the wide shot you can see the current location in the background, new location is where the big cabinet is. Much improved seating area.
 

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· DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Nice...I showcased a couple Solid Screens framed by Fluted Trim and "cornered" with Square Door Buttons. In both instances, on the inside perimeter I used 0.5"x1.5" Pine Lattice wrapped with "Adhesive" Velvet and set in place with Fine Wire Brads. Simply had to have at least some degree of a miniscule Black perimeter.


As far as the MDF....below is what I was thinking of. You can find Square Cornered MDF Base and if you do, a accurate Rip down the middle will get you two identical width lengths. If you do it in the way shown below, you will conserve a lot more "Screen Area". However...if you have less than a 9' Throw distance from "Lens to Screen", your going to have to settle for a pretty small screen....example: 41" x 74" = 85" diagonal



 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice...I showcased a couple Solid Screens framed by Fluted Trim and "cornered" with Square Door Buttons. In both instances, on the inside perimeter I used 0.5"x1.5" Pine Lattice wrapped with "Adhesive" Velvet and set in place with Fine Wire Brads. Simply had to have at least some degree of a miniscule Black perimeter.


As far as the MDF....below is what I was thinking of. You can find Square Cornered MDF Base and if you do, a accurate Rip down the middle will get you two identical width lengths. If you do it in the way shown below, you will conserve a lot more "Screen Area". However...if you have less than a 9' Throw distance from "Lens to Screen", your going to have to settle for a pretty small screen....example: 41" x 74" = 85" diagonal



Ok, this last frame layout is what I'm going to work with, I like the minimized velvet area and should represent an improvement to the existing screen trim. As far as the lens to wall distance, it can be 0 to 14'. At 10' we will be walking under it routinely (9' puts it over the couch), not a huge deal, I'm going to recess the existing short mounting bracket into the ceiling to maximize clearance.

So, these are the numbers: Lens to wall = 10' 4", Screen size = 84" x 47", Screen height above floor = 36", Viewing distance from prime seating = 9.5' to 10'.

Just want to confirm whether I need to paint the beige wall area directly behind the screen, is light bouncing back through the spandex even a factor?

Is there a link to the fluted frame that you showcased, I searched around to no avail.

I do everything DIY so I can do whatever I need to, the problem is stepping onto the downhill slippery slope of "hey, what if I......here, hold my beer". That happens too often with my projects, ask my wife. My goal is to not go backwards from what we have, and improve where reasonable, I appreciate all your help with that. Maybe some day I'll make the opportunity to do a full-on HT room :).
 

· DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Ok, this last frame layout is what I'm going to work with, I like the minimized velvet area and should represent an improvement to the existing screen trim.

I kinda prefer it myself,especially if it will be inset inside your existing Trim.Or if not, the wrapped Sides will still present an aesthetically pleasing appearance.



As far as the lens to wall distance, it can be 0 to 14'. At 10' we will be walking under it routinely (9' puts it over the couch), not a huge deal, I'm going to recess the existing short mounting bracket into the ceiling to maximize clearance.

So, these are the numbers: Lens to wall = 10' 4", Screen size = 84" x 47", Screen height above floor = 36", Viewing distance from prime seating = 9.5' to 10'.

10'-4" is pretty good. Lot's of lumen to the 0.7 gain Spandex. Pop & Sizzle you will have! (68 fl!)


Just want to confirm whether I need to paint the beige wall area directly behind the screen, is light bouncing back through the spandex even a factor?

Nope...the Black Spandex will take care of all that. If any amount of light makes it through and bounces off the Wall, it's energy will be so depleted that there is no chance it would make it through to was out the front.


Is there a link to the fluted frame that you showcased, I searched around to no avail.

I will look myself....might have to dive into my archived images on my External 4 TB HD. My last such example was at least 12 years ago.


I do everything DIY so I can do whatever I need to, the problem is stepping onto the downhill slippery slope of "hey, what if I......here, hold my beer". That happens too often with my projects, ask my wife. My goal is to not go backwards from what we have, and improve where reasonable, I appreciate all your help with that. Maybe some day I'll make the opportunity to do a full-on HT room :).

I'll look forward to that day's arrival. Meanwhile...into the Breach!
 
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