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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
NU1000, 2 1262w's and a sheet of mdf. Should be right at $300.

Any other constraints or goals?
No idea what that is. I'm completely new to this. I'm looking for my brother who has a very nice wood shop in his home and recently built a home theater in his basement.
Does that come with instructions, specs, blueprint and so forth?
 

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No idea what that is. I'm completely new to this. I'm looking for my brother who has a very nice wood shop in his home and recently built a home theater in his basement.
Does that come with instructions, specs, blueprint and so forth?
No, its DIY. Someone can post all the info you need so you can build it (sketchup model, cut list, and a simulation on how the sub will perform).
 

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No idea what that is. I'm completely new to this. I'm looking for my brother who has a very nice wood shop in his home and recently built a home theater in his basement.
Does that come with instructions, specs, blueprint and so forth?
No, it's DIY.

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...Dx9SELemsiPpEMiGNdyAXGBcfzRtihJgbxBoCuqXw_wcB

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refe...qid=1426709701&sr=8-1&keywords=infinity+1262w

There are builds out there though. I'm sure someone has an example.

Here's one http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1917921-16-x-12-sealed-sub-cabinet.html
 

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NU1000 is shorthand for the Behringer INuke NU1000 amplifier. The 1262w is a model of sub made by Infinity, arguably the best low budget 12" sub driver you can buy. and I'm pretty sure the mdf part is self explanatory.

As far as blueprint goes, if you tell us your goals we can design an enclosure to meet your needs. More specifically what are your size constraints and will this be used primarily for music, movies, or both. What size room will it be going on? The more details the better.

Nice Avatar btw!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
NU1000 is shorthand for the Behringer INuke NU1000 amplifier. The 1262w is a model of sub made by Infinity, arguably the best low budget 12" sub driver you can buy. and I'm pretty sure the mdf part is self explanatory.

As far as blueprint goes, if you tell us your goals we can design an enclosure to meet your needs. More specifically what are your size constraints and will this be used primarily for music, movies, or both. What size room will it be going on? The more details the better.

Nice Avatar btw!
Thanks. I like yours too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No constraints really except somewhere close to $300.
It's going in his home theater. Roughly 20x15x8 sealed room. Purpose built but no room treatments. 110" projector. 7.1.
Would be 90% movies/10% music.
He has a Klipsch RW12d right now that just doesn't have enough output. Like to get something that will provide a little thump but doesn't need to go super low.
Size is not an issue as long as its not huge.
 

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No constraints really except somewhere close to $300.
It's going in his home theater. Roughly 20x15x8 sealed room. Purpose built but no room treatments. 110" projector. 7.1.
Would be 90% movies/10% music.
He has a Klipsch RW12d right now that just doesn't have enough output. Like to get something that will provide a little thump but doesn't need to go super low.
Size is not an issue as long as its not huge.
Huge can be a lot different for different people...

Also, does he have room for 2 enclosures vs. 1 dual enclosure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Huge can be a lot different for different people...

Also, does he have room for 2 enclosures vs. 1 dual enclosure?
Something roughly 30x30x30 would be an easy fit. It's most likely going to go up front somewhere.
He won't go through the trouble of proper placement or eqing. I've already tried. He's not nearly as picky as many of us.
He has room for 2 but likely wouldn't go for the idea. Maybe if he put them both in front but that would kinda defeat the purpose. Rather just get him 1 with the most output possible. Doesn't need to be clean and articulate but, of course, not a boom box either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
30x30x30 is big enough for a dual driver ported enclosure using the 1262w. You'll also need a highpass filter so look into the inuke nu1000DSP but that already puts you over $300.

$200 for the amp and $130 for the two drivers. Plus wood, glue, and paint...
Good to know.
I knew this would be a tough sell. He's fairly satisfied with what he's got but it's a real turd in that room. I can talk him into spending a lot when he doesn't see the need. He just doesn't know what a real sub would sound like in that room. If I could get him to spend I would suggest some thing like a Rhythmik FV15HP. One of those would kill that room.
What about the precut kits you see at Dayton Audio? Seems like they have some 15" kits that you just stain and lacquer the wood and assemble for around $300.
 

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Something roughly 30x30x30 would be an easy fit. It's most likely going to go up front somewhere.
He won't go through the trouble of proper placement or eqing. I've already tried. He's not nearly as picky as many of us.
He has room for 2 but likely wouldn't go for the idea. Maybe if he put them both in front but that would kinda defeat the purpose. Rather just get him 1 with the most output possible. Doesn't need to be clean and articulate but, of course, not a boom box either.
If it's going up front then I would say to build one long box that is short enough to fit under the screen and put the 2 1262's in a box tuned to ~20hz. If you can fit a large box you will be able to dig deeper a lot easier so that's an advantage to not having a size restraint.

I would shoot for ~10 cuft. net internal volume and a slot port 2.5" x 20" or so with a length around 25". This should keep port velocity under 16 m/s and with a hpf in place keep cone excursion in check with 650w. You should be able to hit ~112db's at 20hz with this setup, not too shabby for a pair of 12's, not including any room gain.

As MrKazador said, you will need the hpf so get the inuke 1000dsp. We know this goes a little over budget, but for the price no commercial offering can come remotely close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If it's going up front then I would say to build one long box that is short enough to fit under the screen and put the 2 1262's in a box tuned to ~20hz. If you can fit a large box you will be able to dig deeper a lot easier so that's an advantage to not having a size restraint.

I would shoot for ~10 cuft. net internal volume and a slot port 2.5" x 20" or so with a length around 25". This should keep port velocity under 16 m/s and with a hpf in place keep cone excursion in check with 650w. You should be able to hit ~112db's at 20hz with this setup, not too shabby for a pair of 12's, not including any room gain.

As MrKazador said, you will need the hpf so get the inuke 1000dsp. We know this goes a little over budget, but for the price no commercial offering can come remotely close.
lol Sounds like a monster. I like it!
Don't see any reason why placement or room would be a problem. He may have to move his center channel forward a little to make room behind it. He has the center on a stand.
Don't foresee any problem with price either. He's not poor by any means but doesn't see this as a priority so he will need some convincing. But the difference between $300 and $400 shouldn't be a big deal.
He's very good on a computer and uses it to design things. Think he could design something like this on his computer? Is that what you guys do?
 

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+1 for the infinity 1260 or 1262 build. $60 for driver is a bargain. Wood and stuff isn't too expensive. Sealed boxes are easy to make, but it would do really well in a 24" cube ported at 20hz. I have one like that, impressive considering how easy to build and how low cost it is. I would use the BASH 300 amp plate and just get the 1260 driver... that is a nice combo and way easier than the inuke1000 (which is a little pig). I would step up to the 3000 inuke or just go with the amp plate and not worry about it. The 3000 had the benefit of being able to add more...

Trust me you will be back for more...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Many thanks for the links.
That looks to be a fairly straightforward easy build. How critical is port placement? I don't see a lot of specs on the drawings.
 
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