Ok I have thought about this and I would like to build a sub box that would house 2 8 inch subd between the 2 front seats in my 2004 Ranger. I will have to modify the seat from a 60/40 split. Basically I will have to cut off the drivers seat and turn it into a bucket seat and resew the material and remount the seats or get 2 Explorer seats and trade them out. 1 sub will be facing up from the floor between the seats and the other will face up at an angle toward the windshield from between the seats. By the way the truck is a regular cab. Anybody got any suggestions? I would love to find a way to hide the cones when my dog is in the truck so his claws don't destroy the subs.
DIY Truck Sub box help
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Get a pair of buckets.... mount those to the floor and then start on your console sub box. I would downfire both drivers, gives them close coupling to the floor. This way you don't have to worry about damage.
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This should be clear enough...
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Don't try to cut a seat... I am telling you it will not be a good scene... go out and get a pair of buckets from another ranger or explorer in your color... also see if you can get some fabric or carpet that is the same color. Build box to suit location and give some clearance to the floor for the subs.
Make a nice padded top - get some 4" thick foam from a sewing supply house and stretch carpet over top to give you a nice finished look. You can attach it with hinges or screw it from the inside of the box... with short screws. Use 1/2 or 3/4 plywood for the top and get a good stapler... preferably air stapler. Stretch the carpeting smoothly front to back and side to side... corners are going to be a bit tricky at first... until you do one or two.
Sand the outside of the box smooth and spray with some spray on bed liner spray bomb... voila~! Done.
Make a nice padded top - get some 4" thick foam from a sewing supply house and stretch carpet over top to give you a nice finished look. You can attach it with hinges or screw it from the inside of the box... with short screws. Use 1/2 or 3/4 plywood for the top and get a good stapler... preferably air stapler. Stretch the carpeting smoothly front to back and side to side... corners are going to be a bit tricky at first... until you do one or two.
Sand the outside of the box smooth and spray with some spray on bed liner spray bomb... voila~! Done.
How much air space between the sub and floor? Nice diagram my last Ranger was a standard I wish this one was. I was thinking of using MDF. Any idea about box height?
I am looking for a couple of Explorer seats in black fabric or leather.
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I am looking for a couple of Explorer seats in black fabric or leather.
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I would give about 3-4 inches between the cones and the floor... Make it ideally high enough that you can pad the top... if you have an armrest built into the seat make sure it clears when down fully.
If the box is still too large in volume ( compute HxWxD ) consider making the top flip open and a storage compartment for cd's etc... hinge it at the rear.. IE... box with a divider and the top storage.
Have you given thought to what drivers you are going to use>? There are not a lot of companies building 8" subs anymore... compared to years ago.
If the box is still too large in volume ( compute HxWxD ) consider making the top flip open and a storage compartment for cd's etc... hinge it at the rear.. IE... box with a divider and the top storage.
Have you given thought to what drivers you are going to use>? There are not a lot of companies building 8" subs anymore... compared to years ago.
Any Suggestions?
I am looking for clean Bass.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...7916/SFV/30046
There is an armrest there but the only way to build the box will be to change out seats. My current seats are 60/40.
I am looking for clean Bass.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...7916/SFV/30046
There is an armrest there but the only way to build the box will be to change out seats. My current seats are 60/40.
Right, so change out your seats. I'm currently getting rid of a 60/40 in my truck for buckets also. Hit up craigs list or ebay or go to pepboys.... then hit up your local welder for some brackets if you can't devise your own.
Nothing good will come of cutting the bench. It'll look like butt
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Nothing good will come of cutting the bench. It'll look like butt
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Take two of these... install in sealed 1 cu ft box... call it a day.. MTX T5508-04
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
You can go slightly bigger than that without much trouble. If you tend to listen on the louder side... I would go a bit bigger in the box... say 1.2 - 1.4 cu ft.
Throw an amp on them anywhere from 150-250 watts RMS in stereo and you are done.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
You can go slightly bigger than that without much trouble. If you tend to listen on the louder side... I would go a bit bigger in the box... say 1.2 - 1.4 cu ft.
Throw an amp on them anywhere from 150-250 watts RMS in stereo and you are done.
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/prod...2&Product_Id=9
You can go small as .4 cubic feet for a pair.
You can go small as .4 cubic feet for a pair.
Interesting stuff, never been there before. They've got component kits and stuff too, might look into it for my 2 'newer' cars
Every time I do a system right I sell the car shortly after, WTF. Selling my avalon atm , with vifa components and nakamichi xovers and a single 10 (was a dual 10 box but i cut it in half for trunk space which is a moot point in the avalon actually)
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Interesting stuff, never been there before. They've got component kits and stuff too, might look into it for my 2 'newer' cars
Every time I do a system right I sell the car shortly after, WTF. Selling my avalon atm , with vifa components and nakamichi xovers and a single 10 (was a dual 10 box but i cut it in half for trunk space which is a moot point in the avalon actually)
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