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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys, i picked up a celestion a6s sub for $50 bucks to comp my ht system(sc05,mains:energys;center:energy;rears:celestion a6:sub:yamaha 190)

i the yamaha is a slug. but when i added that a6s it lit up the whole system. i never thought my system could sound this good. 2 days ago with the family gone (so i get none of the "TURN IT DOWN"). i turned up the sound level to -21 on the sc05. put in the cronicles of riddick in the bd and let it rip. the battle sceen in the beginning of the bd did it. the front sub started clicking at certain lows.my ecstacy turned to mass depression.. i have no manuals.on line the info on the a6s is sparse. all i know is it is a 200w dual subs. i dont know if the speakers are 2ohms,4ohms or 8ohms. i wanted to replace the one speaker,but from scanning this forum i must be careful. all advise would be appreciated..
 

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Was it clicking or more of a clanking just when the sub really hit hard? Are you getting a ton of distortion now too? If it was a clanking sound you probably bottomed the driver. As long as it sounds ok now its still working. Just keep the levels down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks brandon, i am getting a clanking when it hits hard. i am not getting distortion. i did find some info on the a6s. its tuned to 61hz.should i try to set my sc05 to this level for the sub? also it has 2 rca left and right input & output plugs. i read in this forum a suggestion to "Y" the mono plug out of the reciever to cover both of these plugs. should i do this? thank you...
 

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The y plug won't fix your problem. At best it will give you some extra level, but not much.


Are you sure about that tuning? If it is that high then its more of a mId bass speaker than a subwoofer.


If you have the means the I would suggest building. You will be glad you did. What's your budget and experience? Have any size requirements?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
brandon this is the info i found on the celestion a6s:

product type: subwoofer

wxdxh: 13.4x16.1x23.6

weight: 66.1 lbs

enclosure: mdf

speaker system:

speaker type: active

nominal(rms) output power: 200.0 watts

reponse bandwidth: -61.0hz

output features: bass reflex

magnetic shield: yes

audio amplifier: integrated

connectivity tech: wired

driver details: 1.0 x subwoofer- 200.0 watt- (-61hz)-wired

subwoofer: 2.0 x subwoofer driver - 10.0in - paper


yes i would love to build my own. correct me if i'm wrong but i believe i could build a nice unit for under $800.00? get my driver & amp plate from parts express.. i was thinking maybe a 15 to 18 in driver 500 to 800 watts.

i just built a htpc for 1/10 the cost of going to dell or any other manufacture.

please advise..
 

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$800 could get you a sub that would make the sub you have now wipe its @$$. Let's get into size requirements though. Any restrictions there?


The sub you have now seems pretty heavy for something that small. Truthfully I don't think that is tuned for 61 hz. I do think that you bottomed it out on some harsh material though. You could always get a hpf to try and tame that, but if it were output related vs output/low frequency the hpf wouldn't help it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the reply. i been looking through the diy sub projects. wow. so i need to determine my box size requirement first? tonight i will look at where in the room i will place the sub. the boxes the guys are building are very heavy. 3 sheets of mdf could give you 200+ lbs. where can i get the audio software calculators i see the guys using to calculate their "final products"?

please advise..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
last night i looked at my open areas. for size i am thinking 25"x30"x50". with a 18" driver. i downloaded unibox calculator. is there a "free" download of sub tester in any version? they want $159.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
my decision is i will fix my sub and i will diy a new sub. the sub i blew has 4ohm 200w 10in drivers. i ordered to new ones. i need to do this as part of a learning curve. my goal is to build a good one. my first question is the sub i am trying to fix has 2 wires to each sub driver. one is blue the other is orange. i noticed that a lot of the amp plates avaliable have the same wire colors. would any one know which color is positive and which is negative? the old drivers are not marked but the male ends are of different sizes.

now for the new project. i have read quite a bit on our web site and home theater shack. which is a better design: ported or sealed. a large number of diy projects done the guys say they lose some bass frequency between 50hz-60hz and there crossover point (what ever that might be:80hz,100hz,120hz). how can you build or design a diy sub that can give you the best of both worlds. real low end with full coverage of bass. if the answer is a high end driver and/or high end amp that would not be a problem.

any advise would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hi guys. i just want to share the end of this project with you all. i did it. i am so proud of my noobish self. to start, i went to part express. purchased 2 dayton qt255-4 10" subwoofers. 200w's. 29.9hz to 150hz. 3.4 ohm etc... this is all i could find to match the little info i had on the a6s celestion sub. it worked. and i used it for over the last 1 1/2 months but i noticed distortion a low freqencies. but that was because the oem port(120mm wide by 230mm long) was setup for the original speakers. any time the freq. got below 61hz i got distortion of some sort or chuffing etc. so, i modeled the daytons in Winisd, i came up with a new port with and lenght. 4" dia by 16" long. bingo....
it is now a little beast with some clean kick.. i just want to thank you guys for all your expertice. i have started another project that i will share with you when finished.....a 20.34 cubft sonotub 11.9hz sub i am now constructing. you are all great. i got the bug. remember there is never enough bass....
 
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