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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,


I have a 92" Panoview Gray Wolf II pull down screen in my theater. It works well with my Mitsubishi HC3000U but I would like a more finished look and a more flat projection surface. My room is totally light controlled and we watch movies with the room lights off.


I am looking into making the aluminum frame as referenced in the Beginner's Guide but there are so many substrate and paint combinations I am overwhelmed. Which DIY combination will give me better performance than I have now?


I am not afraid to experiment but I would rather not waste time with options that will not give me the performance of my Gray Wolf, at the very least. Thanks for your thoughts.
 

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around here, everything seems like a baited question... and our disfunctional family would rather clash over semantics then at times be truely helpful.


but i'm sure that to answer your question...


bw, silver fire, rs-maxxmudd, and scorpion would all fit the bill if black levels and ambient light are at the top of your list. and s-i-l-v-e-r if you looking for slightly higher gain, and slightly lower black levels and slightly less ambient performance than the above mentioned.


bw, rs-maxxmudd, and scorpion are recommended if rolling is your only option.

with silverfire and s-i-l-v-e-r you'll want spray.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracy RainH2o /forum/post/16872706


Well, I don't have a problem with ambient light but I would like nice black levels and true colors. My current screen is retroreflective so I assume that the gain will be less with a typical DIY but that's OK.

Hi Tracy,


Back from "Down Under", and "on top" of this query.



1st off.....absolutely. Going the DIY Route is going to provide results that will easily outstrip a Grey Wolf II


2nd. That's a 4+ old PJ w/1500 lumen but only 2500:1 CR. If the Bulb as any degree of wear, and your using Economy, the figures stated to you above are about 50% reduced, minimum


3rd, There is no reason whatsoever to lose any brightness (Gain) while obtaining a significant increase in perceived Black levels (CR), nor lose the look of pristine whites (...and vibrant colors) to the crush that other Ambient Light apps will introduce.


All of the above (#3) are necessary to obtain excellent results. Leave one of 'em out, and the end results WILL suffer.


Avoiding that scenario, and accomplishing all of #3 is as simple as choosing the correct Mix, and applying it correctly.


Silver Fire is the best choice by virtue of the fact/s that it has a measured gain of 1.3, while presenting a N7 shaded level of Gray. Perceived contrast is extremely high. And there will not be the screen texture the GWII has when SF is sprayed.


If any real degree (..or slight..) ambient light support is needed, SF is best, with the only adjudged caveat is the cost / need to spray to effect best possible results.


But that doesn't amount to much.


$60.00 for Wagner S Plus

$60.00 max. for paint supplies

$30.00 for new Black Velvet Screen trim.


$150.00




If NO ambient light watch-ability or such is limited to no direct lighting, ambient lighting set or reduced by 50% or more...the S-I-L-V-E-R will deliver the goods better than any of 'em. Blacks are GREATLY improved, while Whites appear to not have been affected at all. Gotta spray that one too. Wagner,


$30.00 of paint.

$60.00 Wagner CS


90.00 Total,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the responses guys. Yes, my lamp is most likely on the way out. I have always used it in low lamp mode but it has a little less than 2000 hours on it. A new 1080p projector is not in the budget right now so I am looking into a gray screen solution.


My brother in-law had a power sprayer. I will check and see if he still has it. I went ahead a bought a quart of Silver Screen from Home Depot a couple of days ago. However, I will do further reading into all the recommended products.


As far as a substrate goes, the 4'x8' hard board that is mentioned. Is that the 1/8" thick board that is brown on one side and white on the other? If so I read that it did not need to be primed in order for the paint to stick properly and that you paint on the white side. Is this correct? I would have thought it would need to be primed first.


Thanks again.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracy RainH2o /forum/post/16874732



As far as a substrate goes, the 4'x8' hard board that is mentioned. Is that the 1/8" thick board that is brown on one side and white on the other? If so I read that it did not need to be primed in order for the paint to stick properly and that you paint on the white side. Is this correct? I would have thought it would need to be primed first.


Thanks again.

No worries about the paint sticking....only that the slick surface won't handle as much abuse once painted as it would if the paint was applied to a surface that has more "Tack'...or rather a slightly rough surface the paint can cling to.


Properly "Dusted" with the paint to be used for the screen first, almost any GOOD DIY paint will stick to it...although using "Gripper Primer" will make it work even better. But by using that stuff, you lose the advantage of the excellent, bright white surface that already exists. There is "White" then there is REALLY White...and the TWH is VERY White.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, after some reading I have a question or two.


I am planning something around 92" to match the size of my current screen. In your example you had a 200" monster screen.....I am quite jealous BTW. Would I need half of your recommended supplies? 4 oz Delta paint, 1 quart of glaze and 7oz of water for my screen?


Since you are using seven coats of paint, I assume it has to dry in between coats, right? I assume the spray gun has to be disassembled and cleaned after each coat.


What is the best way to adhere the white board to the metal frame? I read about the use of heavy duty Velcro. My experiences with using Velcro in the past for tradeshow displays is a mixed bag. I hung several 40"x60" and smaller photos mounted to Foamcore and had the Velcro pull off the back of the Foamcore...let's say more than once.


What is the best way to attach the frame to the wall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just read in another thread that you recommended lightly sanding the surface before painting. Does that also apply to the white board material from Home Depot as well? I ask because you had stated that the board would need no primer.


Thanks as always.
 
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