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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I don't really have much to add that hasn't been covered before.. and I'm no expert woodworker, so my process won't be documented.. but I'll share pics and progress of the 1099s as I go. :) Trying to take my time, despite being massively excited. haha
First thing I did assemble and solder the crossovers. Electronics is more my forte, so this was a fun and simple process. Still have 1 more thing to do on the crossovers, but that'll be done soon enough.

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Got the diysg flat pack kits, so glue up and assembly was super easy.
Used titebond 2, and a brad nail in each corner, per panel on assembly.
No major issues, and the cuts and packaging was all perfect.
Ran an extra bead of glue on each internal seam, just to ensure seal.

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The foam stuffing is just a foam bed topper from walmart (you see this get recommended pretty regularly).
Also used a bit of rolled batting, since I had to remove a bit more foam for the ports than anticipated.. will this matter at all? idk.
Will also spray paint the foam that will be visible from the ports black.. since these will be visible. (not behind an at screen)

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A few rolled on coats of primer.. sanded with high grit to hide roller marks.
Gonna give this a day or two to fully dry, and be ready to paint black.
I'm pretty happy with the results so far.

Also, thanks to Erich for the excellent packaging. Not a scratch, or anything of issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No roundover planned. I'm not sure if that is abnormal or not.. Gives me more wiggle room if I decide to do a magnetic speaker grill in the future.. I think.
 

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Rounded over edges are always better at reducing baffle difraction. If it has a huge impact on a SOES based design I am not sure but if possible I would recommend it. Just something to consider, i don't think it will break the design if you decide to leave them.
 

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Thanks for posting and sharing your build! Please let us know your impressions of them once you get them going. Looking really good. Nice job.

Regarding the round-over, I'm not sure that a small round-over would have that much affect on diffraction. I have no measurement experience there so grain of salt and all. Intuitively it's true, but if it's not measurable.... If I knew I wasn't going to add a grill, I'd round it over. If I knew I was adding a grill, I'd keep the baffle square and round-over my grill.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think I get the theory of it, but with the 10" waveguide.. I would guess baffle diffraction is less of a concern. (for the mids/woofers though, idk)
Maybe a designer can chime in if they stumble in here.
 

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If you are interested in learning more check out this video, the diffraction bit starts around 10min mark
Wow, well there you go. Thanks for posting that HFGuy! So small changes are definitely measurable.

It looks like he fixed a dip and softened a couple of peaks in the response just by adding some absorption to the baffle. The dip must have been caused by some out-of-phase reflection at that frequency I guess since the absorption killed it and the peaks were in-phase.

Makes sense. I'm surprised that little change made such an impact, but, there it is. So I guess I'd change my assumption and say that "yes, the round-overs will make a difference". From there I guess we need to know what the difference is :) Were those 1099's measured by the designer with a square baffle or with round-overs? My guess is probably "square".
 

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Looking great @John Dowty ! For some reason I had imagined my HT-12 being delivered with a round over on the front baffle, but I'm glad it does not as it gives me the option to do a full edge to edge veneer if that is what the Mrs. prefers. I also want to make a grill for them as it's too tempting for little ones to push that "big button" With regard to diffraction without a roundover I am not familiar, but I personally am more concerned with room setup. If your ears are so senitive that it bugs you the diffraction that is occuring, time to break out the router! But until then, I would think that @mtg90 would have advised to do roundover if it was much of an issue also I haven't heard from other 1099 owners of it being so.
 

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Looking great @John Dowty ! For some reason I had imagined my HT-12 being delivered with a round over on the front baffle, but I'm glad it does not as it gives me the option to do a full edge to edge veneer if that is what the Mrs. prefers.
So much easier to do that vs. trying to get the veneer to match the CNC roundover that comes with many of the DIYSG baffles, as getting the exact same profile with roundover bits in a router is near impossible. In my sig you can see how I dealt with the baffles in both the HTM-10 and Fusion-8 builds (both veneered to some extent), if you're looking for ideas.

ETA: I should have mentioned that in email conversations with Erich I did ask about squared edge baffles on the HTM-10s before ordering. While brief, there was no mention of possible issues re: diffraction with my plan to rebuild the baffles with square edges to accommodate veneering. Could be he hadn't thought about it, but as thorough as Erich is I doubt that was the case. If it was going to cause the speakers to not perform at their expected level I'm sure he would have warned me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
.. so for the ports, do you need to seal those in somehow? They don't seem to have any gasketing on the backs, and idk if I should worry about that or not.
Anywho.
Got the primer sanded, cleaned up and painted a few coats of black. Not looking to bad. :D

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I still need to build the small boxes these will sit on (to get these at ear height), but I'm getting pretty close now.
Soon~
 

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If you are able to you should, but I doubt that its 100% necessary as they should seal up well enough when pushed into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hm.. I have plenty of non slump silicone rtv, but if the mess isn't necessary.. I wasn't going to argue. :) haha
I'll have to test fit, and see if it looks clean/simple to rtv. Might as well if it seems easily doable.
 

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If my memory serves me correctly I laid my 1099 face down on a flat surface, and then poured in shoegoo around the ports from the back. The shoegoo evens out and filled any gaps. I am not sure I would recommend this .... but it's what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ohhh, that's a bit sketchy, but if it works and didn't flow out.. that's cool. I'd be too scared about flipping the over and discovering a horrible mess. :D haha
 

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securing the ports . . .
Hmmm . .
2x F15's, 5 x 88 Specials, 4x Volt6's, 2 x HTM6's
Line'em up, pop 'em in . .
so far so good
 

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That's what I did with the Volt6s I build this year. If something comes up when I measure them ill fix it.
 
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