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Discussion Starter #1
Ordered some Magnum 12's off of Eric a few months ago, finally got around to making the baffles. Great weather but random light showers stalled me a lot today. Hope to have one fully built tomorrow. Experimented with some Kiawe today on a pork butt while I was making saw dust too.

Still need to get a non-oval 4" pipe from HD.






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The magnum sub sounds great I had it in my room at my gtg meet. Your going to be surprised with the amount of output from two of them. Very clean bass and they can dig deep to. Keep the build going it will be well worth it.
Longboard island lager nice of choice of beer to!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The magnum sub sounds great I had it in my room at my gtg meet. Your going to be surprised with the amount of output from two of them. Very clean bass and they can dig deep to. Keep the build going it will be well worth it.
Longboard island lager nice of choice of beer to!


Yes, I think so too!




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Definitely excited to hear about your experience with these. I plan on using these for MBM's when I make them. Where are you putting them? Right behind the seating? Are they seats or a couch? I'm trying to figure out if I should get 2 or 3 because my sectional is 12 feet long.

Also, how long is the 4" port you are using?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Definitely excited to hear about your experience with these. I plan on using these for MBM's when I make them. Where are you putting them? Right behind the seating? Are they seats or a couch? I'm trying to figure out if I should get 2 or 3 because my sectional is 12 feet long.

Also, how long is the 4" port you are using?
I'm putting them behind the couch. In the future I may want to use these with the Concentric's to make a 3 way, or just keep them, I'm anticipating quite a lot of volume from these.

With the MDF my port is going to be 6.5" long. Modeled in WinISD that showed a 45hz tuning.

Now that I think about it, that seems a little small? oh well, off to double check. If I make a port too long, will it cause excursion issues even if I run a HPF?

edit: ok, I checked everything, and with a 1.77 cu/f box (to account for bracing/driver/port) I need a 6.5" port. So I have 1.25" of MDF and a 5.25 4" pipe behind it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Went ahead and glued the pipe on for my (eventual) test fit. Bought the rest of my MDF and need to get it cut. Do these need a lot of lining?



Also, my family demands home made bacon. So I spent most the day tending to smoking them. Unlike pork butt, these are temp sensitive and I can't afford to over cook them, so most of my attention was on them and beer.



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I'm putting them behind the couch. In the future I may want to use these with the Concentric's to make a 3 way, or just keep them, I'm anticipating quite a lot of volume from these.

With the MDF my port is going to be 6.5" long. Modeled in WinISD that showed a 45hz tuning.

Now that I think about it, that seems a little small? oh well, off to double check. If I make a port too long, will it cause excursion issues even if I run a HPF?

edit: ok, I checked everything, and with a 1.77 cu/f box (to account for bracing/driver/port) I need a 6.5" port. So I have 1.25" of MDF and a 5.25 4" pipe behind it.
so you're not going to do a flared port? Sorry for the inquiries but I'm going to build a near replica of this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
so you're not going to do a flared port? Sorry for the inquiries but I'm going to build a near replica of this.


I round overed the MDF and hope that is enough. If I still get chuffing I'll flare the inside.


If I can't get it done, I'll eat the shipping cost and order a PSP.


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I dont think youll get chuffing. Its not a very long port. Diameter and length can both be factors in chuffing.

I like the idea of using them as a 3 way with the concetrics. I think that combined with a quality sub system (or not) could make a pretty amazing setup for a very reasonable sized budget. Im surprised more people dont make these. The woofer is far superior to the Dayton PA woofers.
 

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I'm putting them behind the couch. In the future I may want to use these with the Concentric's to make a 3 way, or just keep them, I'm anticipating quite a lot of volume from these.

With the MDF my port is going to be 6.5" long. Modeled in WinISD that showed a 45hz tuning.

Now that I think about it, that seems a little small? oh well, off to double check. If I make a port too long, will it cause excursion issues even if I run a HPF?

edit: ok, I checked everything, and with a 1.77 cu/f box (to account for bracing/driver/port) I need a 6.5" port. So I have 1.25" of MDF and a 5.25 4" pipe behind it.
So for the front you're using .5" MDF and .75" as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
So for the front you're using .5" MDF and .75" as well?


Nope, double .75 but I have a .25" round over. But you can use .5 and .75.

I dont think youll get chuffing. Its not a very long port. Diameter and length can both be factors in chuffing.

I like the idea of using them as a 3 way with the concetrics. I think that combined with a quality sub system (or not) could make a pretty amazing setup for a very reasonable sized budget. Im surprised more people dont make these. The woofer is far superior to the Dayton PA woofers.


Yup I'm very interested in a radian 10" too, the concentric would be cheaper and much easier to cross to but those radians. BMS makes some great looking coaxials but I haven't been able to price one in America yet.

Also thanks for the input! Do these need a lot of lining?


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So, noticed something that's not cool. One of my baffles is showing gaps. This correctable or do I need to remake it?



Left was done with elmers wood glue and the right was HD special, both weighted the same.


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So, noticed something that's not cool. One of my baffles is showing gaps. This correctable or do I need to remake it?



Left was done with elmers wood glue and the right was HD special, both weighted the same.


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Probably not, it's not really doing anything other than providing a flat surface/flush mount for standing waves. Throw some Brads/staples in one if you worried, wood filler and clean it up in post production

Never was a fan of glue only, all my boxes are glued, stapled, and seames siliconed

You'll love the mbms! Have 3 rounding out my f8s, holy hell, I currently have 4 infinity's collecting dust bc I feel zero rush to get them in my system. These are doing both full range lcr + .1, handle everything with ease

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Probably not, it's not really doing anything other than providing a flat surface/flush mount for standing waves. Throw some Brads/staples in one if you worried, wood filler and clean it up in post production

Never was a fan of glue only, all my boxes are glued, stapled, and seames siliconed

You'll love the mbms! Have 3 rounding out my f8s, holy hell, I currently have 4 infinity's collecting dust bc I feel zero rush to get them in my system. These are doing both full range lcr + .1, handle everything with ease

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Ok thanks! I was wondering if I did keep it this way how I'd fill the crack in for when I painted it, but that's a few days down the road. I love the idea of using a brad nailer, I have a compressor I bought with some free nail guns but I have ZERO experience with nailing and they actually scare me more then using a table saw. Really glad I'm not going to have to remake one of these...

My plan was to do a sealer on the MDF then attempt to spray or paint on thinned paint. I'm still new to all of this but the learning process is surprisingly tons of fun!

And thanks! I asked a while ago for a Mid Bass set up and so many people here couldn't recommend them more! there was some who were championing the Dayton's 460's and while those do look impressive these seemed like the path to go.
 

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Probably not, it's not really doing anything other than providing a flat surface/flush mount for standing waves. [/QUOTE]

What, exactly, does that mean?

I'd remake the baffle if it was me. If you've got gaps along the edge, you could very well have some throughout the panel... This almost defeats the intention of laminating 2 panels to make one and could, potentially, cause unwanted resonances. What are the chances of it being audible? Probably pretty low, but it would suck to finish the build/prep/paint and then realize you've got a problem down the road. MDF also has very poor nail/staple holding properties, screws work much better, which is one reason it is not recommended for use as a wood flooring under layment. Consider predrilling and counter sinking from the back side of the inner panel, glue and screw them together. Plan your screw placement so they don't interfere with driver and port cutouts. You want them tight with only a thin layer of glue between them...no gaps.
 

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What, exactly, does that mean?

I'd remake the baffle if it was me. If you've got gaps along the edge, you could very well have some throughout the panel... This almost defeats the intention of laminating 2 panels to make one and could, potentially, cause unwanted resonances. What are the chances of it being audible? Probably pretty low, but it would suck to finish the build/prep/paint and then realize you've got a problem down the road. MDF also has very poor nail/staple holding properties, screws work much better, which is one reason it is not recommended for use as a wood flooring under layment. Consider predrilling and counter sinking from the back side of the inner panel, glue and screw them together. Plan your screw placement so they don't interfere with driver and port cutouts. You want them tight with only a thin layer of glue between them...no gaps.


Thanks for the reply, as it stands it's pretty bad. Looked up elmers wood glue and it's pretty watered down, which may explain why it retreated from the edges. I don't know why I have it but I decided to try to use it up on that baffle and now I'm paying for it.

I have time to remake it, it won't take long it's just such a pain. I'm really upset it happened and there is a noticeable sound difference when you tap on the two boards. I may just water the rest of the glue down and let it seep through the crack then clamp on the edges and see if that binds it. If not I have to make a new one this coming weekend.

:(


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What, exactly, does that mean?

I'd remake the baffle if it was me. If you've got gaps along the edge, you could very well have some throughout the panel... This almost defeats the intention of laminating 2 panels to make one and could, potentially, cause unwanted resonances. What are the chances of it being audible? Probably pretty low, but it would suck to finish the build/prep/paint and then realize you've got a problem down the road. MDF also has very poor nail/staple holding properties, screws work much better, which is one reason it is not recommended for use as a wood flooring under layment. Consider predrilling and counter sinking from the back side of the inner panel, glue and screw them together. Plan your screw placement so they don't interfere with driver and port cutouts. You want them tight with only a thin layer of glue between them...no gaps.
I've never had an issue with Brad nails and MDF; I always use PL Premium and Brad nails. Speaking of PL Premium, us it, not wood glue. I don't think gaps between baffles is going to cause any issues. The only reason to double up is to give the screws more to bite into when installing the drivers.

Feel free to redo it. It's your project, so if your concerned about it then go for it.

Hmmmmm, home made bacon.
 

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What, exactly, does that mean?

I'd remake the baffle if it was me. If you've got gaps along the edge, you could very well have some throughout the panel... This almost defeats the intention of laminating 2 panels to make one and could, potentially, cause unwanted resonances. What are the chances of it being audible? Probably pretty low, but it would suck to finish the build/prep/paint and then realize you've got a problem down the road. MDF also has very poor nail/staple holding properties, screws work much better, which is one reason it is not recommended for use as a wood flooring under layment. Consider predrilling and counter sinking from the back side of the inner panel, glue and screw them together. Plan your screw placement so they don't interfere with driver and port cutouts. You want them tight with only a thin layer of glue between them...no gaps.
I've never had an issue with Brad nails and MDF; I always use PL Premium and Brad nails. Speaking of PL Premium, us it, not wood glue. I don't think gaps between baffles is going to cause any issues. The only reason to double up is to give the screws more to bite into when installing the drivers.

Feel free to redo it. It's your project, so if your concerned about it then go for it.

Hmmmmm, home made bacon.
I disagree pretty strongly here. For bonding panels together, a good wood glue is better than a polyurethane glue. You want a thin layer, but full coverage, and not something that has expansion properties. Brad nails do ok for keeping panels from sliding around during the glue up, but they don't have the necessary pulling force to assure full contact across the entire panel. Staples do a little better, bit still not adequate. Screws are the best option without a press, and predrilling and countersinking is the way to go. Without those 2 steps you'll likely sheer the heads of the screws due to the high surface tension of MDF, and losing the needed compression of the panels during glue up.

The point of doubling up or using a thicker panel for the baffle is not only more meat for the screws to bite into(you shouldn't be relying on wood screws in MDF to hold a woofer in, anyway), but to add stiffness/strength/rigidity to the panel.

The OP also said he hears a difference in resonances when tapping on the 2 panels...so, chances are that the glue up failed and should be redone.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I cut two new pieces to be used as a baffle, will glue them tomorrow. In the mean time I've been experimenting with glue and water and seeping it into the cracks. Since last night I have almost all the visible voids filled. Even if this works I'm still not using it I think, unless it sounds the same as my other baffle.



I don't know I'm still ticked off, so I finished the bacon. Sorry this project got so derailed!




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I only use Titebond 3 and Clamps. Never any metal fasteners. I've never had a problem with gaps, expansion or failing. I've also never hit a nail with my router bits. ;)

Whether you reuse that piece is up to you. I think it will be fine, but I'd probably remake it just so I know I'm satisfied.

Price for a pack of bacon shipped to 37179?
 
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