[bergie33]

If I have decided that rainbow effect is not a concern, which projectors tend to be better? Is there any way to cure dead pixels without replacing expensive parts?


What are key specs I should look for in a $2000-3000 projector? If my main goal is the best DVD image I can get for that price, and I don't want to go out and get a scaler or doubler or HTPC (although I would either upgrade to the Panasonic RP56 DVD player or keep my Pioneer DV-525 and get a DVDO V.2), should I look for the inputs that I need, a certain resolution (is SVGA OK or do I need XGA), a certain contrast ratio?


I am leaning toward the NEC LT150, but need to know if the RP56 will plug right in and give me a great picture or if the DVDO with my Pioneer would be better.

 

[bergie33]

Also, how do I get a DVD image to project in 16:9 on the LT150? Or on others that have a native ratio of 4:3?

 

[Mark Hunter]

HI bergie,


On my LT150, I feed it a resolution of 1024x576 (16:9) from an HTPC, and on my D-ILA, I feed a resolution of 1360x768 (16:9).


This is one way of turning 4:3 projectors into 16:9 projectors, although an optical assembly is more elegant.

 

[Huey]

LT150 ($2200), VGA-->component cable ($40 for 20 footer from www.a2zcables.com ), Manual 96X96 Hipower screen ($350), RP56 ($220) = under $3K.


DVDo is around $500-700 new depending on versions and $300-500 used. I'd go for RP56 as there is some degradation of image with DVDo. LT150 definitely need progressive signals to get good imaging (Svideo is adequate but not great).


16:9 is displayed like your TV with letterboxing. You could get 16:9 screen and the black bars will fall outside screen especially if you hang your screen 1 foot from wall this will hide bars very well. If you want to be flushed with wall or have 4:3 screen then masking will help. Blacks are sooo good on LT150 that black bars are not bothersome unlike LCD where black bars are dark gray. That's the advantage of having 800:1 CR vs. 200:1 on cheaper LCD (newer LCD boost contrast up to 600:1 but more expensive). It also has 16:9 squeeze which takes advantage of anamorphic DVD for even better imaging. You'd be happy with DVD on LT150. NTSC on the other hand may be crappy unless you get digital cable or satellite via Svideo (DVDo may help here as the doubler in LT150 isn't the best).

 

[bergie33]

Huey,


Can you get a cable that goes from Component out on the RP56 to 15-pin RGB on the LT150 to get a better connection, or is S-Video the best connection that can be had?

 

[Robert Clark]

If you are not sensitive to the rainbow effect, then DLP is definitely the way to go.

Some people are sensitive to the rainbow, some are more sensitive to the screen door effect (me).

DLP provides superior black levels and much reduced screen door vs. LCD. Some LCD projectors now offer quite a high brightness level if that is important to you.

 

[AnthonyP]

I think you need to look at the projector and then decide. there is a good article at projectorcentral on the differences between the type of projectors. From the few projectors I have seen (PC and video) I have found the LCD ones suite my taste more. But then again I might not have seen the right DLP projectors


Inputs are always important. One thing to watch out for is "or" type inputs instead of "and" types. On some projectors you have a composite and a s-video connection, but you cannot use both at the same time. You have to physically disconnect the s-video to activate the composite input.

 

[Huey]

Look at this 20 foot cable: http://www.a2zcables.com/a2zcables.s...View/V213&2D20 .

The component ends plug into RP56 and VGA end goes into LT150. If you get HDTV later you'll need a Kramer or KVM VGA switcher (manual or auto) for $50-200 depending on models.


LT150 can switch between composite, Svideo, VGA ports by pushing "source" button on remote or on top of PJ. It can also auto detect the active signals between the sources. You don't have to unplug any cables to make any ports active (unless you have 2 VGA sources then you'd either have to buy a switcher or plug and unplug cables). Svideo is OK IMHO but not great. I watch analog cable on my SVHS VCR via Svideo out and it's MUCH better than composite out of the same VCR receiving the same channel using similar length and quality cabling (I hooked up both to compare as Svideo cable is more expensive but it's sure is worth it). VHS is not bad either. STB interlaced DVD via Svideo is good but no where close to progressive signals via HTPC and probably RP56 (I'd bet HTPC is still best). The main difference is in the small details like people down the street or scrolling end credits is not as clear as in progressive signals.