Quote:
Originally Posted by
Cycloid /forum/post/14277767
In fact, if I'm reading the specs correctly, the crossover to the powered subwoofer is 90Hz. If you are using this system for only home theater (as I'm using my system), you might try disconnecting the powered subwoofers from the rest of the speakers and connecting them to the LFE output on your AVR using shielded coax with an RCA phono plug to attach to the speaker. I have no idea whether this would make a difference or not, but Klipsch seems to recommend it. I have never heard an RP-3, so I don't know. Perhaps sivadselim or anyone else could chime in with their thoughts.
Well....................
If it were me, I would skip the LFE input scheme and simply wire the speakers as normal speakers (binding straps left in OR biwired) and set the receiver up as having NO SUB. This circumvents the issue of deciding on which crossover setting to use in the receiver if the top section of the speakers is run as SMALL. The top section could still be run as LARGE and the 90Hz crossover in the speakers would do its thing with the LFE channel (and any rerouted bass from any channels set to SMALL) being the only thing sent to the lower sections. But this would truncate the front channel bass content. If run as SMALL, one would have to use at least a 90Hz crossover setting and probably higher than this so as to avoid any interaction between the AVR's and speakers' crossover (which is really really a high-pass filter if run this way).
IMO, the simplest and least complicated method is usually the best. So, if you set the receiver up as having NO SUB, the receiver will properly reroute the LFE channel at the correct measure into the front channels and the speakers' 90Hz crossover will parse the LFE and front channel bass (and any rerouted bass) appropriately, as they were designed. This also allows any stereo bass from 90Hz down that may be present in the front channels to remain as stereo bass. That's what I would do, anyway. Keeps it simple and will work just fine.
If the OP's receiver has front channel pre-outs, he could use these to connect the sub section, and connect the top section separately as if they were normal speakers, but he would still set the receiver up as having NO SUB with this connection scheme. And this sort of connection scheme doesn't really provide anything that simply connecting the speakers normally with the binding straps left in (or biwired) provides.
Additionally, and importantly in the OP's case, connecting the speakers "normally" eliminates the need to run additional coax cabling; the simple speaker wire runs that the electrician friend is running will suffice.
But, as I said, if he can, the OP should still properly run a separate subwoofer cable just in case he feels the need to utilize a dedicated sub in the future.