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As you may have read I near getting my Nec lt150 . My first thought was to set up a perm 16X9 screen since DVD is the most important format when I'm really into a movie and most of them are in 16X9 . But since the pj is replacing my day to day RPTV I probably will put the most hours on it in 4X3 Sat dish I am just trying to get a Poll on what others are doing Thanks in advance Wayne P.S. Anyone using that screen goo stuff yet ?
 

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DA-LITE COSMO-ELECTROL HDTV 16:9 HIGH CONTRAST SCREEN 159"
 

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I have a G15, and recently a LT-150.

If you like movies and have a digital display 16:9 is the only way that I'd go personally.


4:3 video sources are usually lower resolution, so having the larger projected image on a 16:9 screen makes sense with 16:9 enhanced DVD and HD video sources.


The selling point with the LT-150 and a 4:3 screen is that it doesn't have a zoom lens, which means that you would have to physically reposition the projector when going between 4:3 and 16:9 material. But it is a very portable projector.

I have a 180" 16:9 Stewart Grayhawk screen that I use for both of my projectors.


-Dean.
 

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I use a 1.85:1 (78"x42") fixed screen and my LT150 is permanently set to cinema mode. When viewing 4:3 material (not very often), I use the iScan Plus V.2's squeeze mode to project it in the center of the screen (with black bars on the sides).


Works great for me.
 

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With a pulldown (or motorized pulldown) 4:3 screen it's easy to switch between 16:9 and 4:3. I use a HTPC and position the 16:9 image at the top of the screen with the screen pulled up into the correct aspect ratio. Most of my material is 4:3 and so it's not too often that I switch over to 16:9.
 

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I still need to install a fixed screen - currently I'm using a portable one. I'd go for 4:3 because my projector panel is 4:3.


If I need widescreen I have to throw away top and bottom. I don't like it but can live with it. If I wanted to use 4:3 on a 16:9 screen this means that I wouldn't use top and bottom of the panel but also not left and right side. No thank you - I'd like to use the full resolution at least in one mode.


I realise that things are different if you use ISCO or panamorph.


I'm I missing something?


Jan


-


Frode,


I posted a question in the HTPC forum lately on how to use the top half of the screen. Could you please share how you accomplished this?


Thank you
 

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JHH,


Personally I use dvdsubber ( www.dvdsubber.com ), while others use YxY. Should be a download link to YxY somewhere in the HTPC forum if you want to use that - do a search.
 

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I project with a G11 onto a Dalite Highpower 16x9 screen at 106", it is the only way to go.


I use the top 768 pixels of the 1024 panel with custom resolutions in Powerstrip, using a Radeon LE card - pretty standard procedure by now. The next step will be to use the full panel resolution (1365x1025) with the Panamorph onto my 16x9 screen - someday.


Brian
 

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4:3 Stewart Grayhawk, 106" diagonal, Boxlight 38T (4:3) projector.


Dan
 

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From your description of the use of the projector the most flexible option is 4:3 - here's why! 4:3 allows you to set the projector up for both 16:9 and 4:3 material without having to move it (I did this from a floor monted position). If you use a movable or "floating" masking system then you can easily cover the bars top and bottom and properly frame your image for a cleaner more engaging picture. If you purchase a Panamorph or ISCO II, setup will be much more flexible - especialy for the ISCO -you will only have to move the projector forward, although the image will now be near the bottom of your screen.


With the "new" to DVD 4:3 format gaining popularity you'll be all set. ;)


Cheers,


Grant
 

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LT150 with Dalite Model B Matte White 16:9 manual pull down
 

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I have both 16x9 and 4x3. I use the 16x9 99% of the time. My advice would be not to use the lt-150 for everyday viewing. I use a small direct for that. Movies - football and other important NTSC broadcast I use the 16x9 with the proj.
 

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I think it makes sense to match the screen to the projector panel size - BUT...


If you have a fixed screen, then when the picture exactly matches the screen size, the masking of the screen will make the picture look better. This is probably more important with movies (16x9) than TV (4:3)


Also, for me, the most important factor was total size. My ceilings are low (7'), and if I wanted a 8' wide screen, that would make the screen 6' tall! That just wouldn't work in my room. So for me, the height of the screen was limited, and I just decided to get as wide a screen as possible (1.85:1, 89"x48")


Mike
 

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I have an XGA (1024 x 768) projector (the NEC VT540) which throws a 4:3 image onto the screen. The projector has a zoom lens so that I can increase the size of letterboxed (16:9) material. As a result, I built my screen 54" x 90", or 1.67:1, which is a compromise between 4:3 (1.33:1) and 16:9 (1.78:1). I watch 4:3 material with the zoom lens pulled all the way back, and 16:9 DVDs and HDTV in full-zoom mode. Works great for me.
 

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My line of thought parallels Dean's. I'm using a 16x9 screen, because my 16x9 material will be high-resolution (for the most part), while essentially all of my 4:3 material will be regular NTSC resolution. So, I would rather use the full screen for high-resolution material and have a smaller area for 4:3.


I'm probably going to build my own variable mask for 2.35:1 material (masks out the top and bottom of the 16x9), and also for 4:3 (masks out the side).
 

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I was planning on getting a 16x9 screen and having drapes on each side like "movie theaters". I would close the drapes more when watching 4:3 formats. Has anyone tried this as an alternative to masking?
 

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Max-


Yes, I have a 120" wide 1:1.78 wall-mounted screen with black velour drapes. Once I saw how much nicer the picture looked when "matted" by these drapes, I took it a step further.


Using the same velour material, I made adjustable masking for the top and bottom of the screen for use with ARs>1:1.78. These top and bottom masks are of necessity adjusted manually, but as it's only for movie-length occasions this isn't a problem. The improved picture is well worth it.


My projector is one which allows the "constant height" solution, showing 1:1.33 material full height on the wide screen, using the curtains to mask the sidebars. For widescreen ARs, just open the curtains.
 
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