[Audixium]

I'm at the point of ordering doors in my build. I've done some research and want to make sure I am on the right path. I have:

1. Double wall construction w/5.5" gap for a total of 15" jamb depth
2. Three layers of drywall in theater w/GG, one layer outside
3. Single door 36"x80", might do communicating if a single doesn't cut it

I've read that in a basement theater many have had success with a 1 3/4" Masonite solid core door w/proper seals (DIY or Zero type) and auto bottom.

That is my current plan - a 1 3/4" solid core interior door hung on a custom jamb to match the 15" depth. I was going to hit the easy button and pay for the Zero type seals and auto close bottom.

I originally thought I would need to build a bank vault style door (extra mass and double seals) with two independent jambs that didn't mechanically connect. That sounds like it might be overkill.

My GC is ordering the doors so I want to make sure I give him the correct info to avoid any issues/delays.

Questions

1. How important is it to get a full 1 3/4" flush door vs the same depth solid core but with "decorative panels" to match the rest of the house (standard six panel)?
2. I can't find a door slab that matches those specs on the big box sites. Are they only available as a "custom" order if you go to the desk?
3. Also, how do I know I'm getting the right Masonite core density? Is it material type or weight that I should be looking for?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

you seem to have a good grasp of your options, only you can determine how important sound isolation is at the doorway, certainly it doesn't have to be any better than the room itself. Perimeter door seals are always a good idea. You could do decorative door on the outside and a plain solid slab on the inside if you want it to look like the rest of the house. In my experience communicating doors do perform well.

 

[pkinneb]

I am using a 6 panel matching door in my theater and I did have to special order the 1 3/4 slab (took about 6 weeks). I just couldn't get past a non matching door my wife was like what's the big deal but I know it would have bugged me.

I filled the theater side with MH Patch and I am now adding two slabs of 1/2" MDF. I will be using an auto door bottom with door seals from the Soundproofing Company and I am making the frame from 7/8" poplar.

After reviewing a lot of threads this seemed to be kind of middle of the road solid design but not as robust as some I have seen. I hope it provides the desired affect but I'm still a few months out from trying it for real.

FWIW I have about $1,200 into it. This includes the slab, all hardware, ADB & seal, GG and 2 sheets of MDF, and the lumber for the jamb. No labor as I am doing it myself.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

you must have started with a very expensive matching door if you have $1200 invested. I can get a 1 3/4 paint grade door slab to match just about anything for $200 or less. Was it a TruStile?

 

[pkinneb]

you must have started with a very expensive matching door if you have $1200 invested. I can get a 1 3/4 paint grade door slab to match just about anything for $200 or less. Was it a TruStile?

$200.81 Door Slab
$491.57 Auto Door Bottom/ Door Seals
$205.63 Door Hinges
$65.00 Door Pull
$64.38 Auto Door Closer
$34.54 Push Plate
$85 5/4 Poplar/ MDF
$17 MH Patch Gallon
$32 GG

$1192.93

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

adds up!

 

[Audixium]

Thanks guys - I'm going to start with just the single solid core door and seals. If that isn't enough I'll either do what pkinneb is doing and beef up the existing door or add a communicating one.

My goal with sound getting out is centered on people being able to sleep on the 2nd floor during a normal movie session.

I'm still trying to figure this piece out: how do I know I'm getting the right Masonite core density? Is it material type or weight that I should be looking for?

 

[Nyal Mellor]

Thanks guys - I'm going to start with just the single solid core door and seals. If that isn't enough I'll either do what pkinneb is doing and beef up the existing door or add a communicating one.

My goal with sound getting out is centered on people being able to sleep on the 2nd floor during a normal movie session.

I'm still trying to figure this piece out: how do I know I'm getting the right Masonite core density? Is it material type or weight that I should be looking for?

You will definitely want a communicating door setup. That double wall you are building will be mid-60s STC, the single door with seals high 30's STC tops. Beefing up a single door will get you mid-40s tops.

 

[Audixium]

You will definitely want a communicating door setup. That double wall you are building will be mid-60s STC, the single door with seals high 30's STC tops. Beefing up a single door will get you mid-40s tops.

You will definitely want a communicating door setup. That double wall you are building will be mid-60s STC, the single door with seals high 30's STC tops. Beefing up a single door will get you mid-40s tops.

Thanks for chiming in Nyal. The room opens up to a small "lobby" of sorts at the bottom of the basement stairs that my wife is setting up as a wine nook type of area with floating shelf bar, wine fridge, ice maker, etc. So my door(s) have to meet wife approval for entertaining situations. The double doors were frowned upon originally.

But, I may just do it and ask for forgiveness if the situation warrants it. That is how I ended up with a black matte ceiling in the theater. She stopped complaining after about 10 minutes.

I'm also building out a small studio room on the opposite side of this lobby with the same construction techniques.

My general construction crew didn't really do Rod's book justice, but my goals were not so much about about reducing noise floor for fidelity or recording, but more about not disturbing people on the 2nd floor.

I've come a long way from my initial desire to have double pocket doors.

I plan to hit you up soon for an acoustic treatment design quote.