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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What do you guys think about these doors? Solid wood exterior doors. They can come prehung as well. Seems reasonably priced and not too far from me so I think shipping would be ok.

http://www.solidhardwooddoors.com/HTML/Xallwood.html
http://www.solidhardwooddoors.com/HT.../exterior.html


I'm doing double doors so some additional items I'd be purchasing:

I would add automatic door bottoms from Zero International. #360A

Meeting Stile #383

Head and Jamb seals #770


Given the head and Jamb seals do you think this continuous hinge would be necessary? #910


Opinions on the doors and added Zero International pieces?
 

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You might consider the 365A from Zero. You can use a solid hardwood or stone threashold as well. A gard surface for the door bottom to engage to
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, there will be hardwood outside the theater so I was planning on using a solid wood threshold. I wanted a mortised door bottom. The mortised equivalent to the 365 is the 364. Do you think the 364 is a better alternative to the 360?

http://www.zerointernational.com/cat...e.aspx?page=18


Opinions on mortised, semi-mortised, vs surface mount?


The doors themselves seem like nice 1.75" solid wood doors that are great looking in a mahogany or cherry.
 

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365 is their highest rated door bottom, along with the nearly equivalent 367
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Jackals /forum/post/18294154


I'm doing double doors...

Is that two doors side by side like you might see on the front of a house, or two doors with a few inch airspace between them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude /forum/post/18294751


Is that two doors side by side like you might see on the front of a house, or two doors with a few inch airspace between them?

Double doors, not communicating doors. I know it's less than ideal or sound containment. I'll do the best I can given the double door configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/18294684


365 is their highest rated door bottom, along with the nearly equivalent 367

OK, thanks. Looks like the 367 has a double neoprene seal but only allows a .562" drop vs the 1" drop of the 365. Do the mortise bottoms underperform compared to the surface mount versions because of the mass you are removing by recessing the door bottom? I was looking at some tests they did. I never thought of it but looks like their best results utilized a 364 (mortised) in conjunction with a 367 (surface mounted). So they used two door bottoms on a single door.
 

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Not thinking a double seal is necessary at all. The extreme high frequencies that would be slipping through won't carry far
 

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I think a single, lead-lined, gasketed, guillotined door would be more effective.
 

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guillotined door? Like an overhead garage door?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu /forum/post/18294950


I think a single, lead-lined, gasketed, guillotined door would be more effective.

Every choice comes with little comprimises in some way, shape, or form. The double door is a given. No need to debate whether or not a single door or double door is more effective. We all know the answer to that. This is my plan to deal with the assumption of a double door. I welcome any input you may have regarding that plan given the assumption of the double door. I'm not married to the wod doors I posted the link to though, so if you have some better options on the actual doors, I'm all ears. I just thought the fact that they were solid wood exterior doors that also looked great at a reasonable price made them a good option.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/18295093


guillotined door?

The weatherstripping for the bottom of the door is what is called an automatic door bottom, or "guillotine".


These have a plunger on the hinge side of the door that hits a strike plate on the door frame when you close the door. The plunger pushes the weatherstripping down into firm contact with the sill. This gives good weatherstripping without dragging the seal all across the floor. They seal better and last longer than all other bottom seals.

 

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That's what we've been talking about this whole time.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/18295350


That's what we've been talking about this whole time.

I know. I didn't know why you asked!


My point was that a single, lead-lined, door (with all the proper gaskets and guillotine) would be a better solution than double (air lock) 1.75" solid wood exterior doors.


To be fully-effective, a double door air lock, both doors must be properly gasketed, the door frames (walls) split, and the space between them treated. VERY EXPENSIVE.


A single mineral core, lead-lined door, with gaskets will give you more bang-for-the-buck.
 

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I disagree. The mass of the single leaf will only take you so far. Having two (less massive) doors decoupled and separated by an air cavity would work better.


Same reason that a double stud wall will outperform a CMU block wall at most frequencies that we care about. Also two doors means two sets of seals, less chance of seal failure.


I asked about the guillotine since after selling literally hundreds over the years no one has ever called it that. Probably a regional thing maybe.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/18295601


I disagree. The mass of the single leaf will only take you so far. Having two (less massive) doors decoupled and separated by an air cavity would work better.

Is there a guide anywhere showing the best way to do two doors decoupled with an "airlock" in a 2x6 stagger stud setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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That's a double stud, not staggered stud wall, but an excellent diagram.


I have great respect for Rod Gervais, and his book Home Recording Studio: Build It Like The Pros, where that image originated. We don't quite recommend door installations that way. Not saying that installation is wrong at all, as it has been successfully deployed time and time again.


Many designers recommend the use of purposeful gaps, to which a backer rod is inserted and backfilled with sealant. This is certainly thorough, but perhaps not so easy to coordinate with drywall contractors. I prefer to put drywall to drywall, or drywall to jamb, especially if the drywall is thoroughly damped. Then seal with a small dose of sealant.


Also, compression seals, rather than magnetic seals for a wood door(s).


Lastly, there is the opportunity to take advantage of the double stud wall, by installing two pre-hung solid core interior doors with jambs for 2x4 framing. Installing two of these will leave a small gap between the two door jambs. This gap effectively decoupled the two door frames. Fill this gap with acoustical sealant and cover this gap with a decorative wood strip. The strip is only attached to one of the two jambs that it covers.


With respect to a staggered stud door frame, see here: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/..._construction/
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/18298507


With respect to a staggered stud door frame, see here: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/..._construction/

That doesn't really address how to get an airlock though with a stagger stud wall. Is the best strategy to buy two pre-hung doors and and trim down their frames to make them thinner allowing the same strategy as the double stud wall, or making two thin DIY door frames and hanging the doors yourself to get the same effect, or is there another solution?
 
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