[Forseti]

All,


I've got one layer of drywall up on my soffits. I have a few questions that left both me and the contractor helping me confused:


1) Do you need to mud the corners on the "bottom layer"?

2) How/when should we use corner bead? I.e. on bottom, top, or both layers?


Thanks!

 

[eskay]

Do it the same as a wall or ceiling.


First layer gets quick mud job; not even sure if tape is necessary. Make sure there are no blobs which will prevent the second layer from laying flat against the first. Stagger the seams in the corner so that if there is a crack in a seam on the top layer, the sound will hit solid drywall underneath and not another seam (which can also crack).


You could use corner bead on the top layer to get a clean edge.

 

[Forseti]

But isnt the corner bead on the outside then going to be too far off of the wood on the inside of the soffits to screw it in?


5/8" + 5/8" down off of the wood?

 

[carboranadum]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Forseti /forum/post/14262907


But isnt the corner bead on the outside then going to be too far off of the wood on the inside of the soffits to screw it in?


5/8" + 5/8" down off of the wood?

Screw it in? You could use paper faced metal corner bead. This doesn't require fastners to attach it.


CJ

 

[Forseti]

Is that the stuff you use a "dimpler" to install?


Thanks for the reply!

 

[Ted White]

You don't need a light coat of mud on the first layer. The corner bead is for finishing and would go on the outside layer only.


What Carb is referring to is actually a corner bead but with paper edges attached. There is adhesive on the paper. So no dimpling, screwing, nailing.


I generally use nails for standard metal corner bead. Not sure why, but I like to set the nail head and maybe that's just what I'm used to.

 

[tlogan6797]



Quote:
You don't need a light coat of mud on the first layer.

Do mean just on the soffits or the whole wall does not need to be mudded?

 

[Ted White]

It means on the first layer of drywall you do not need to mud for Green Glue application. Most don't and certainly no commercial job does.


This is for walls, ceilings, floors, soffits... anything

 

[Tom Bley]

Ted, if you don't mud the first layer of drywall and you are using green glue, do you caulk the seams on the first layer?

 

[Ted White]

Hi Tom. Good question. Many do, but honestly, most do not. THe reason is that the seams of the first layer are covered by the panels of the second layer. This is why we stagger layers. Intersections such as ceiling / wall and wall / wall obviously don't have an overlap, but they receive mud and tape.


So looking at three areas here's our position:


Seams in the first layer in the field of the wall or ceiling - Not necessary


Intersections as described - Not necessary but a good idea


At the bottom of the walls where the drywall meets the floor - Absolutely seal that seam

 

[pmeyer]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/14267570


It means on the first layer of drywall you do not need to mud for Green Glue application. Most don't and certainly no commercial job does.


This is for walls, ceilings, floors, soffits... anything

There is value in 'sealing' the seams between the drywall sheets on the first layer, correct? From the green glue site:

Quote:
After hanging the first layer of drywall, it is recommended that you seal the seams between sheets. This can be done with either caulk or drywall mud.

I think this applies to the corners as well. You want to cut down on any air path through the drywall. I found mud easier and faster than caulk. I didn't do corner bead on the first layer that I knew was going to be covered, however.


I had another factor: I wanted to use the first layer as a chance to practice mudding/taping, and I hate caulk.


(Sorry, got delayed in my post and this was mostly addressed above)

 

[Ted White]

Again, most installs don't mud first layer and that is reflected in our instructions. Is it bad? Certainly not, obviously. Will it improve things? Very likely not at all.


But it certainly is a GREAT opportunity to hone the mudding skills!!

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

Instructions and pictures for outside paper corner bead here. No nails required.

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuild...rner-bead.aspx



Was googling for a pic and found this MESH based corner bead. I wish they sold this at HD. Haven't seen around but it should be a good strong bead. The paper version looks similar except it's paper.

 

[Ted White]

You really have to hand it to Big for always coming up with these product links. It's enormously helpful.

 

[tlogan6797]

I thought the reason for mudding the first layer was to provide a smooth, continuous surface for GG contact between layers.


I bow to Ted's superior knowlege on this. PLUS it makes it less work for me. And any of you in the LOGANED thread know what I'm talking about!

 

[tlogan6797]



Quote:
You really have to hand it to Big for always coming up with these product links.

So THAT'S what we have to hand it to Big for...not his great designs or craftsmanship or somewhat witty retorts...but for coming up with those links.

 

[Ted White]

This is yet another example of technically better vs. practically better. Technically, providing a super smooth primary surface to glue to is better. Practically, it's not.

 

[budk]

I had the same problem with using traditional metal corners with double drywall.... no place for the screws to grab. I ended up using the Mesh - plastic corners Big mentioned along with a can of spray adhesive. It worked great.

 

[Ted White]



Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 /forum/post/14268406


So THAT'S what we have to hand it to Big for...not his great designs or craftsmanship or somewhat witty retorts...but for coming up with those links.

You got me!

 

[carboranadum]



Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 /forum/post/14268389


PLUS it makes it less work for me. And any of you in the LOGANED thread know what I'm talking about!

Less work? You're not actually making forward progress now are you?


CJ