[kcdude24]

I am installing a drop screen in front of a LCD and need to wire the controls. I will be using a Da-Lite contour electrol with the standard controls. From my post in the screens forum I was told a 14/3 (4wire lead) goes to the unit from the control switch installed on the wall.


My question is how to wire this on the wall behind the screen case. I plan on running the 14/3 to a j-box that is flush mounted to the wall just like any 110V outlet. I would then pigtail a lead to the screen. How do I pass the wire out of the j-box to the screen? I would like a short piece of conduit going to the screen case, but how do I connect the conduit to the j-box coverplate?


Anyone have some photos of their setup?

 

[jpdeuce]

Why mount it on the wall? Why not mount it on the ceiling, right where the screen would need to connect to it?

 

[kcdude24]



Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdeuce /forum/post/16855670


Why mount it on the wall? Why not mount it on the ceiling, right where the screen would need to connect to it?

If I wall mount the box then I have a the future option of removing the drop screen/LCD, capping the box and going with a fixed screen. No need to patch knockdown ceiling.


It also appears the knockouts are on the back of the screen case. I'm not sure it will be code to have a wire coming out of the ceiling and going in to the back of the case.

 

[jpdeuce]

OK, well if it were me, and I was working under the constraints listed above, I would not attach the conduit to the plate. I would create the conduit so that the elbow on the plate side ends up in the middle of the plate, and I would secure it to the wall just above the plate so that the hole stayed where I wanted it to.

 

[Javatime]

kcdude24,

You should check the Da-Lite site for the model. I have a similar setup with my Elite Cinetension 2 screen. The electrical box is mounted on the ceiling for power, but the controller is both Infrared (IR) and radio frequency (RF) remote controlled which is a low voltage controller/ with IR/RF receiver. It comes with a 12V trigger that synchronizes screen drop/rise with the projector's power cycle. Unless I'm misunderstanding your question, you don't need a 3 wire configuration for geting power to the screen. The controller itself is all low voltage stuff.


Ok..I see what you are asking. I think my screen has a knockout (3/8 or 1/2 connector) too. I think you could just run a pigtail from j box with 14/2 right to the screen. I'm not sure conduit is mandatory or required, but that is just my opinion of how I would run it. It seems it would be no different than running any other tap from a j box to a source.

 

[kcdude24]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Javatime /forum/post/16855898


kcdude24,

You should check the Da-Lite site for the model. I have a similar setup with my Elite Cinetension 2 screen. The electrical box is mounted on the ceiling for power, but the controller is both Infrared (IR) and radio frequency (RF) remote controlled which is a low voltage controller/ with IR/RF receiver. It comes with a 12V trigger that synchronizes screen drop/rise with the projector's power cycle. Unless I'm misunderstanding your question, you don't need a 3 wire configuration for geting power to the screen. The controller itself is all low voltage stuff.


Ok..I see what you are asking. I think my screen has a knockout (3/8 or 1/2 connector) too. I think you could just run a pigtail from j box with 14/2 right to the screen. I'm not sure conduit is mandatory or required, but that is just my opinion of how I would run it. It seems it would be no different than running any other tap from a j box to a source.

The Da-Lite models have a separate control unit for RF/IR/12V trigger...With the standard wall switch you have to run 4 wires to the screen with 120Vpower/control...hence the 14/3. My problem is that the screen will be mounted 8-9" from the back wall and I'm trying to find a solution that is pretty much hidden from view with the screen ceiling mounted.


It would be a much easier install with just a 120V outlet and then built in IR/RF controls.

 

[Craig Peer]

Yes , there are knockouts on the screen electric box. You can use 4 conductor extension cord ( Google it and buy on the web or at a local electrical supply ) and use Romex or extension cord fittings that clamp on the cord and have a threaded ring that attaches to the J box on the screen and your switch box ( local hardware store should have those ). It's pretty easy to wire and electric screen. Hiding the wiring can take a little creativity, but can be done.

 

[kcdude24]

So a 4 prong 10/3 electric dryer cord should work...unterminated end wired to screen, plugs in to a standard 220V 4 prong receptacle...outlet wired to VPI or switch via 14/3....right? Also, I should be able to cut the cord to the appropriate length to keep enough tension so it doesn't show. Should work with a single plug/j-box. Thanks!

 

[Craig Peer]



Quote:
So a 4 prong 10/3 electric dryer cord should work...unterminated end wired to screen, plugs in to a standard 220V 4 prong receptacle...outlet wired to VPI or switch via 14/3....right? Also, I should be able to cut the cord to the appropriate length to keep enough tension so it doesn't show. Should work with a single plug/j-box. Thanks!

You don't need the receptacle - just a cord or Romex. Follow the wiring diagram that Da-lLite gives you - http://www.da-lite.com/products/install_pdfs/288.pdf


OR, call an electrician if you are unsure about any of this!!!