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Drywall anchors

2235 Views 21 Replies 12 Participants Last post by acras13, May 30, 2021

dlweninger

Discussion Starter · May 18, 2021

Hi everyone, I’m about to hang my surround speakers (Polk LSIM 702f/x). They weigh about 29lbs each, I was thinking of using the Toggler Snaptoggler. But the problem with this anchor and 90% of the other anchors is they are designed the the bolt to be tightened down all the way. But I need to leave it sticking out about a 1/4 inch or so to engage with the key holes. What’s your thoughts.

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

Mike Lang

· #2 · May 18, 2021

I would never attempt to hang 30 pounds on nothing but a single point on a single sheet of drywall.

Reactions: 1

Augie

· #3 · May 18, 2021

In my experience, all drywall anchors suck. I used molly bolts to hang my surround speakers to drywall via their keyholes and it’s worked out great.

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colour

· #4 · May 18, 2021

Drywall is stronger than you think I would have no issue using these E-Z Ancor Twist-N-Lock 75 lbs. Medium Duty Drywall Anchors (50-Pack)-25310 - The Home Depot

The trick is to make sure they fit tight into the drywall without screwing them in more than flush with the drywall and backout the screw the minimum needed. Any anchor will fail if not installed correctly. The problem with the molly bolt type is they can easily puncture the drywall weakening it.

m0j0

· #5 · May 18, 2021

I have found these to be excellent drywall anchors and have used them for heavy speakers (LSIM 703's) and projectors, etc.

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: WingIts RC-MAW35-6 Master Anchor for Drywall Size 6-Pack Color Name: Stainless Steel 6 Unit Count Type: Per Pack : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: WingIts RC-MAW35-6 Master Anchor for Drywall Size 6-Pack Color Name: Stainless Steel 6 Unit Count Type: Per Pack : Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Vern Dias

· #6 · May 18, 2021

dlweninger said:
Hi everyone, I’m about to hang my surround speakers (Polk LSIM 702f/x). They weigh about 29lbs each, I was thinking of using the Toggler Snaptoggler. But the problem with this anchor and 90% of the other anchors is they are designed the the bolt to be tightened down all the way. But I need to leave it sticking out about a 1/4 inch or so to engage with the key holes. What’s your thoughts.

I would take a slightly different approach:
Monoprice Adjustable 33 lb. Capacity Speaker Wall Mount Brackets (Pair), Black - Monoprice.com
I try to hit a stud with 2 of the screws and use the EZ Anchor mentioned above for the other two, although 4 of the EZ anchors will be more than enough.

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squared80

· #7 · May 18, 2021

You're assuming nobody will accidentally hit the speakers. Find studs.

Reactions: 1

colour

· #8 · May 19, 2021

squared80 said:
You're assuming nobody will accidentally hit the speakers. Find studs.

If I had to find a stud for everything I hang on a wall then nothing would be where I wanted it nearly impossible with speaker placement besides being unnecessary.

Reactions: 2

BIGmouthinDC

· #9 · May 19, 2021

Vern: https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

eaayoung

· #10 · May 19, 2021

The only drywall anchors I use are the ones sold by The Container Store called Ella Drywall and Plaster Anchors. They work really well for holding their closet shelving system in drywall. Never had one pull out or not hold. But attaching to a stud is always preferable to attaching via drywall. They could be use with a hook to attach the speaker via the keyhole.

Bäsemödel

· #11 · May 19, 2021

This is what I used with excellent results. I have a ton of confidence in them. All of the speakers in my room are installed with these.

The sides are using two togglers each holding a standard speaker mount. The rears sit on an ikea shelf that has four togglers teach.

Vern Dias

· #12 · May 19, 2021

BIGmouthinDC said:
Vern: https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

One word: studs.

Actually several more: Texas, Concrete slab, 1st floor room, 2 story house.

BIGmouthinDC

· #13 · May 19, 2021

Vern Dias said:
One word: studs. Actually several more: Texas, Concrete slab, 1st floor room, 2 story house.

You do surgery behind the baseboards run everything around the perimeter and come up in the the stud bays. Patch and replace baseboards, taller ones if needed.

Reactions: 1

Vern Dias

· #14 · May 19, 2021

2

BIGmouthinDC said:
You do surgery behind the baseboards run everything around the perimeter and come up in the the stud bays. Patch and replace baseboards, taller ones if needed.

To much work for a 78 year old.

I don't use my HT as a showplace. Function over esthetics, the screen and the projected image are the focus.

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dlweninger

Discussion Starter · #15 · May 20, 2021

Mike Lang said:
I would never attempt to hang 30 pounds on nothing but a single point on a single sheet of drywall.

They have two key holes on the back, spaced about 12 inches apart

dlweninger

Discussion Starter · #16 · May 20, 2021

I was thinking of using some 1/2 MDF (painted black) cut slightly smaller than the dimensions of the back of the speaker. Than I would use four anchors to hold it to the drywall (hoping two of the screws can hit a stud), then two screws to hold the speaker to the board.

Augie

· #17 · May 20, 2021

dlweninger said:
I was thinking of using some 1/2 MDF (painted black) cut slightly smaller than the dimensions of the back of the speaker. Than I would use four anchors to hold it to the drywall (hoping two of the screws can hit a stud), then two screws to hold the speaker to the board.

I’d try not to overthink it. Molly bolts or toggle bolts or one of the fancy versions of those things that people have mentioned in this thread. Something that puts pressure on the front and back of the drywall making it near impossible to pull out. I’d feel safe with any of those in spots where studs can’t be used, and I’d hang the speaker from it directly.

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acras13

· #18 · May 29, 2021

OP , if you get a nut the right thread pitch for the anchors you use that to snug the anchor to the wall . Adjust the head to where you need it for the keyholes , then snug the nut to the wall . I personally wouldn't mount that much weight on only drywall , but I've done that for light weight surrounds that had keyholes . My rule of thumb is if I think the item will break when it falls on my head , then it gets mounted on wood thats mounted on studs or I cut the wall and add blocking .

dlweninger

Discussion Starter · #19 · May 29, 2021

acras13 said:
OP , if you get a nut the right thread pitch for the anchors you use that to snug the anchor to the wall . Adjust the head to where you need it for the keyholes , then snug the nut to the wall . I personally wouldn't mount that much weight on only drywall , but I've done that for light weight surrounds that had keyholes . My rule of thumb is if I think the item will break when it falls on my head , then it gets mounted on wood thats mounted on studs or I cut the wall and add blocking .

I didn't even think of using a nut, thumbs up.

mhutchins

· #20 · May 29, 2021

Here is some real world data: Project Farm - Which Drywall Anchor is Best?

Mike

Reactions: 1

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