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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I just got the drywall hung, and I realized I messed up. The wall sockets are flush with the drywall, and now it does not leave any room for the accoustical treatment I thought I'd put along the lower part of the walls. How can I extend the sockets about 3/4" for the treatment to be flush with the socket? or should I just cut around the sockets, and have them look like I wanted the sockets recessed?

Thanks for your replies, Pete
 

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Check with an electrical supply house (or Home Depot/Lowes if you've no other choice) and ask for box extensions. The only one I saw on the Home Depot website that lists the depth is 1 1/2 inches deep, but I'd think that you'd find a greater variety at a true electrical supply house.
 

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Hey Pete,


Might be easier to knock the old ones out and then replace them with the "Remodel" type after your done with the treatments.


Either way, relax, your not up the creek. jdb
 

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What is wall socket?
 

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Home Depot and Lowe's carries single gang box extensions. Those are what you need. I haven't seen them carry anything for bigger boxes.
 

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ArtisTech -


Technically, a "wall socket" is something your told as a child not to stick bobby pins into.


Some of us, due to not heeding that bit of wisdom, or maybe because of the sheer excitement a wall socket stirs in our hearts, grow up and cherish the term.


I have also heard it referred to as, "the wall thingy", "Plugger inner" and "A Duplex".


Hope this helps very much, jdb
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the info, I'll check for box extensions this week.I didn't know that there was such a thing, but I'm glad there is! Thanks, Pete
 

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CHeck the web also if you can't find locally.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by jdb
I have also heard it referred to as, "the wall thingy", "Plugger inner" and "A Duplex".
Or to quote the electrician from Seinfeld in the Frogger episode, "the holes".
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by MrSquid
"the holes".
Well explained;)
 

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Hey guys instead of buying extensions why not just buy "longer" screws? You can still have your trim plate flush with your finished wall but just screw it into the box with screws that reach that deep. Nothing say's the box has to be flush too, yes it's easier, but by no means a "big problem." Just an FYI...


E
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by efarstad
... Nothing say's the box has to be flush too...
The connections need to be made inside the box, and enclosed: not half way between the box and the face plate - hovering in space.


I dispatched three raccoons last night, jdb
 

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Even with box extenders you'll still need the longer screws, the extenders are just used as an added "fire wall" protection, typically used in wainscot construction. They do not have screw holes, at least most don't, hence the need for longer screws. If you're using two layers of drywall, hence the reason your outlet is 1/2" deep in the wall then normal...sheetrock is a fire-rated material and has the same fire-rating as most extenders (2 hrs).


I've seen both done, and both would pass "most" inspections...but if you do have "air space" and no drywall material between box and finished wall then by all means get extenders!!! And don't dangle the outlet in space as jdb shared....That's not safe at all.


E
 

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Quote:
Nothing say's the box has to be flush too, yes it's easier, but by no means a "big problem."
Well...actually I believe code requires the boxes to be one-eighth inch from the surface of the sheetrock but I rarely see this enforced much. But if you are too far off, inspectors likely will.


Brian
 

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btw, a layer of sheetrock (X-only) has a half-hour rating. A one hour wall is one layer of X board each side. A 2-hour wall is 2 layers each side. Of course thickness of the wall and insulation come into play as well.


Brian
 

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Home Depot carries a couple of different sizes of outlet extensions. Another option is to remove the existing boxes and replace the with "old work" boxes that don't mount to the wall frame. Either way, you should be able to resolve the issue without to much rework.
 

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Frank, pulling out the old boxes would sure be a hard and messy job. All those boxes are nailed into studs and stuck behind drywall. That would not be an option for me. Just get the box extensions and you'll be fine.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Toxarch
...pulling out the old boxes would sure be a hard and messy job...
You would instead knock them INTO the wall cavity. A cold punch and hammer, with plastic of metal boxes, several whams and they're gone. Fish the romax out and re run into the new "old work" or "remodel" box.


Had to do this several times. Two minute job per box.

Not familiar with a punch? One should get the extensions, jdb
 

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I did the exact same thing - all my junction boxes were flush with the drywall. I wasn't thinking ahead to the 1" of acoustic treatment I was going to add to the wall. (DUH!) The part that sucked was that I didn't leave myself quite enough slack in the outlets to get to the screws to reinstall them, so I had to add 3" pigtails to every friggin' outlet.


Pete, I used the plastic outlet spacers from Home Depot that others here have referred to. They are not available at all Home Depots. If you want, I can run to my local HD and get what you need, and ship it off to you for the cost of parts and shipping.


Good luck, but don't sweat it. It's an easily fixable problem.


- Chris
 
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