[tlwarnke]

I am getting close to doing the drywall in my theater room. (Only about 50 other thing to complete first.

) I am considering using up Suppress Sound-Engineered drywall as a dealer is just a couple miles away. This has similar properties to QuietRock. My question is could I get by with just installing this on the walls that adjoin other living space and not on the walls that are against the foundation walls?? Just trying to save a couple of bucks if possible. I don't want to put up with the extra expense of doing dual layers of drywall and green glue as I will probably be contracting the drywall labor out.

At around $65 a sheet I only want to drywall the ceiling and the walls that I need to.


Thanks for your help.


Terry

 

[dhark]

$65 a sheet

Holy crap you could do 6 layers for the price of one of those and bet it would be alot more quite than that stuff

 

[Craigo87]

Good question. The guys that talk at length about flanking noise will probably tell you to do every wall in your theater. I had a guy who sells RSIC clips tell me that I didn't have to do the walls against my foundation, but we were trying to work within my budget. At $65/sheet, looks like you'd be saving more than a couple bucks.


Here's just a suggestion. Go with regular 5/8" sheetrock on the foundation walls and then do some testing with a boom box or stereo of some sort and an SPL meter. If too much sound leaks out, then add another layer of sheetrock (1/2" or 5/8") to the foundation walls with GG in between. If you'll have outlets on those walls, plan ahead and make sure you have some additional wire in the boxes. It's easy to add box extensions as long as you have enough wire to extend out 1/2 inch. This approach will be more cost effective, and at least you'll know you didn't throw away good money. Just my 2 cents.


Craigo

 

[tlwarnke]

Craigo,


Good idea. That sounds like a plan unless someone comes up with something better.

The Suppress guys have an acoustical caulk that needs to go on all the studs before the drywall goes up so a bit more money saved.

Terry

 

[Craigo87]



Quote:
Originally Posted by tlwarnke /forum/post/0


Craigo,


Good idea. That sounds like a plan unless someone comes up with something better.

The Suppress guys have an acoustical caulk that needs to go on all the studs before the drywall goes up so a bit more money saved.

Terry

Terry,

I was told to use the acoustical caulk from another supplier for the seam between the ceiling and walls. In other words, they said you want a small gap (approx. 1/8") between the sheetrock on the walls and ceiling which you fill with acoustical caulk. And oddly enough, I was also told to do the walls first and then the ceiling, which is counter to what is normally done. Perhaps someone else can explain that one.


Craigo

 

[tlwarnke]

Ya I knew about the small gap where the walls meet and at the ceiling. But didn't know about doing the walls first then the ceiling. Interesting concept. Thanks.


Terry

 

[misterkit]

Whats the purpose of the small crack? Is it so that the wall can move? I would think that you would want to create a sealed environment....

 

[ScottS]



Quote:
Originally Posted by misterkit /forum/post/0


Whats the purpose of the small crack?

The goal is to isolate the ceiling from the wall. This can be a huge benefit if you mount speakers directly to the wall...

 

[ellisz]

Do you think, 5/8 drywall would be worth the extra cost over 1/2" if that is all you are doing? I have insulated the walls and ceiling but was told to not really bother with other measures unless I did double drywall and GG. I would like to do as much as I can but I figure the double drywall and GG would be another $1000 to the already exceeded budget ...


Thanks

 

[tlwarnke]

I was thinking of starting out with 1/2 inch drywall on the foundation side walls and adding another 1/2 inch layer if needed. I have adjustable depth outlet boxes just for that purpose. On the walls that are by other living spaces there may not be enough room for multiple layers of drywall. The builder added a door close to the wall and there may not be enough room for acoustic treatments and trim afterwards hence trying to use Suppress Rock. No, due to WAF I can not move the door but I need to change it so it opens out instead of in.


Terry