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Dtsdig’s Angular Elusive 1099 Build!

12K views 174 replies 26 participants last post by  dtsdig 
#1 · (Edited)
I have finally started building my brother’s 1099’s after a long 4 years that included moving and a million other projects in life getting in the way! My brother wanted some kind of angular design and after a few doodles, this is what we came up with. I’m going with the orange circled one.

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We bought some Rosewood veneer for this build 4 years ago and I finally opened it and checked it out when I was building his sonosub. Looks great!

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My goal is to minimize the eventual telegraph lines of the MDF edges that will show up, even under veneer. Here’s the idea I’m going with. I set up my dado stack and will run both vertical back edges of the baffles through the angled blade creating a rabbet that includes a 4 degree angle for the side panels.

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In that picture, imagine the panel that is vertical in the pic as the end view of a baffle with the horizontal piece representing a side wall attached. You can see that 4 degrees is the sharpest angle possible while using the original ports.
After figuring out a plan, I spent a few minutes drilling out the screw holes for the mids and the waveguides and then got the baffle extensions cut and glued up.

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#36 ·
A bit of an update from last night. I worked on getting all of the side panels to match the baffle final height. This wasn’t too bad using my cross-cut sled with a stop-block attached to my fence.
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I also ran my sled through the blade at 45 degrees which is how I’m planning to get all of these ends mitered.
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#37 ·
Ok, you're just showing off now :)
 
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#39 ·
I don’t know about that, but I do like the challenge! Here is a crapload of mitered ends! Everything appears to be very accurate.
Hindsight and all that, I would not have done the rabbet along the edges of the baffle. Now I’m left with a predicament. I should have done a miter on those edges as well.
Anyway, I am happy with how all of the uprights turned out!
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#41 ·
Yep, If I was smart and had planned out the whole project in full, I would have eliminated the exposed edges completely by......mitering them too. My brother pointed this out to me as well. I generally "work pretty well on my feet" and just jump right into speaker projects making decisions and figuring it out along the way, maybe a quick sketch here and there. This time, I had gotten set on the idea of that rabbet before I had fully decided on the miters everywhere else. I will have to take a pic of what I'm talking about, there is no way I can explain the issue.
I may have to backtrack and glue a strip of MDF back into the rabbet I ripped. 😭
 
#47 ·
Oh man, I have never done any of this stuff inside of a living space, but you should have seen my garage back in 2013 when I was cutting all of the panels for my curvy subs using a 20 year old circular saw and a homemade straight edge on the floor with no vacuum cleaner in sight! Things have come a very long way since then.
 
#46 ·
I had my son help me stand everything up and get some ratchet straps secured again so I could take a look at what needs to happen on the top and bottom pieces. I just could not visualize it in my brain or on paper.
Because of those rabbets, and then the miters, this is what I’m left with at the junctions of the front side panels and the baffle top (and bottom) corners.

But first off, the rest of those miters are looking nice!

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With the top set in place:

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Now if you can visualize it, that top piece will have miters all the way around and will set down into the top of the box.
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So what I’m going to attempt to do is stop the miter cut on the first two sides short, just before they meet the baffle. Then I’ll set my bandsaw at a 45 and finish the cut right up to where the tiny triangle mark is. If it works, that little triangle will drop down into the triangle created by the baffle and side piece shown, like a key.
And if it doesn’t work, and I botch it up, I’ll proceed with gluing a strip of MDF back into the rabbets and start over with a miter there as I mentioned earlier. Or, I'll take the easy road and just use some filler in that tiny triangle hole, which would be much easier!
If I can’t have some fun and challenge myself with this stuff, then it just becomes a job, so what the hell?
 
#51 ·
@Trimlock @JohnDean Both good suggestions. I do wish I had thought this thing through a bit more when I started. I was pricing out chamfer bits at my local Woodcraft thinking that would be the best way for the top and bottom pieces. should be way easier to get it right that way.
 
#52 ·
@Trimlock @JohnDean Both good suggestions. I do wish I had thought this thing through a bit more when I started. I was pricing out chamfer bits at my local Woodcraft thinking that would be the best way for the top and bottom pieces. should be way easier to get it right that way.
I can confirm that a chamfer bit is easier to do 45 miters with.


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#53 ·
Thanks guys! I picked up a Whiteside chamfer bit with a 3/4” cutting height after work and did some test cuts. It sure is easy! That’s definitely the way to do these top and bottom boards vs. trying to square the part to the table saw blade for every cut.
After another two attempts, I made the final master top panel to copy a few others from. I’ll just cut 3 more rough pieces and then tape them together and run them around the router table with a flush trim bit. Once those are done, I can run all 4 through the chamfer bit.
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#58 ·
@JohnDean That is what I was planning until I gave the chamfer bit a go and found out how easy that is. Either way, I would not have to redo the side panels because the overall box dimensions are of my own "wing it" design anyway. Even if I had to cut 3/4" off them, the box would still be plenty big.
Tonight will be making copies of the master for top and bottom panels. While I'm at it, I may make slightly smaller copies using a rabbeting bit set to make the inner shelf panels (the chamber dividers).
 
#59 ·
I picked up some of that woodworkers double sided tape to made copies of the master panel with using a flush trim bit on the router table. That stuff works great and I wish I discovered it years ago! No more using brads or screws and then having to fill holes!

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#74 · (Edited)
I picked up some of that woodworkers double sided tape to made copies of the master panel with using a flush trim bit on the router table. That stuff works great and I wish I discovered it years ago! No more using brads or screws and then having to fill holes!

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Sorry if I’m late to the party, but I’m reading your build.

Also, painter tape on both part and crazy glue in between work pretty well if you don’t have double side tape.

I used to make knife and that I was doing. [emoji3526]


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#63 ·
Yes, that looks about the same as what I used. With the circle cutting jig, the instructions say to put a piece of tape inside the circle and one piece outside the circle (between the work and the backup piece of wood). Fasten the sacrificial backup wood to the bench. And everything stays in place while cutting the circle. I have only tried it once, but it worked well for me.
 
#65 ·
It’s almost assembly time! I picked up a Whiteside 45 degree chamfer bit at Woodcraft and what a lifesaver that was for the top and bottom panels! The runner-up MVP for this weekend was the rabbeting bit set I’ve had for a while now but hardly ever used. That made making the smaller inside shelf parts from the top and bottom masters super easy.
After all that work was done, I set up the dado stack in the table saw again and got dados cut into all the panels to hold the 3 internal shelves.
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#66 · (Edited)
Made a second layer for the very bottom of the cabs just to add a touch of weight and some more meat for the eventual screwed on feet. Again, the rabbeting bit was key here except this time, I used one of the internal shelves as the master to go even smaller.
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All the dados!!

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Finally, I gave the biscuit jointer a try for these side pieces. I really wanted something to help align all of the miters when I go for the glue-up. This looks like it will work out just how I wanted!

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Here’s what will be left to fill in 4 places on each speaker. I can live with that!

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#68 ·
Imagine life getting busy, as always. 😭

After a bit of messing around and tweaking here and there dry fitting, I finally got one of these glued up last night! I made a wicked mess with squeezeout, which I usually try to control much better, but these miters made me nervous so I’ll just have extra scraping to do later.
After running through so many assembly orders without glue, it seemed the best way to go about it was just to do it all at once. I think it worked out nicely!

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I’ll get the other one glued up this weekend. Unfortunately, once the cabs are complete, the veneer work will have to wait a minute until my pool refurb job is done.
Don’t try this at home, kids.

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