[dtsdig]

I have finally started building my brother’s 1099’s after a long 4 years that included moving and a million other projects in life getting in the way! My brother wanted some kind of angular design and after a few doodles, this is what we came up with. I’m going with the orange circled one.

We bought some Rosewood veneer for this build 4 years ago and I finally opened it and checked it out when I was building his sonosub. Looks great!

My goal is to minimize the eventual telegraph lines of the MDF edges that will show up, even under veneer. Here’s the idea I’m going with. I set up my dado stack and will run both vertical back edges of the baffles through the angled blade creating a rabbet that includes a 4 degree angle for the side panels.

In that picture, imagine the panel that is vertical in the pic as the end view of a baffle with the horizontal piece representing a side wall attached. You can see that 4 degrees is the sharpest angle possible while using the original ports.
After figuring out a plan, I spent a few minutes drilling out the screw holes for the mids and the waveguides and then got the baffle extensions cut and glued up.

 

[JohnDean]

Not a big fan of the veneer, but your work is always top notch. We're all watching, get to cutting

 

[dtsdig]

Thanks John, I didn’t pick it but I think it’s going to look good when it’s finished. Just like his sonosub, my brother was looking for some flashiness.

 

[dtsdig]

Here’s something that took a little while to decide on. Since the bottom portion of the front panels will be veneered and the upper portion (the original baffle panel) will be sprayed Duratex and then hidden under a grill, I wanted to add a slight step where I joined the two panels so that the veneered surface would lay flat with the Duratexed surface, in other words, a smooth transition between the two.
To get the step right, I spent some time experimenting with scrap pieces and the biscuit jointer. I just changed the position of the slots on the baffle extension pieces. Here’s what I mean.

Accounting for the typical thickness of a few sprayed coats of Duratex and the contact cement plus the paper backed veneer, I think they will be pretty close to each other.

 

[reddman71]

You do incredible work. I'm looking forward to seeing the completed project. They're amazing speakers. I'm glad I was able to finally score a set of them.

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[mixma]

Oh man I am pumped to see some 1099 action!!

I've got my three in the paint stage and will update when I have more pics and progress but like damn all these people with wood working shops and ****, lol.

I've got three saw horses behind my couch in my entertainment room with towels on the floor...lol!

 

[dtsdig]

I had a few minutes tonight to mess with these. The consequence of stepping the baffle extension slightly to make depth for the veneer on the outside is that the opposite step happens on the inside of the baffle. That would be fine except that I’m running a rabbet down both edges of the baffle and having that step there would disrupt that line. So to take care of that, I ran both panels through the drum sander a few times and now the insides of the baffles are all flat, no more step.

Finally, I ran both panels through the 4 degree angled dado stack to create the rabbets on both edges. Turned out great! Here’s the rabbets and then a couple of scrap panels clamped in to show what’s happening.

Perfect angle for the ports to still fit!

 

[dhettinger]

Looking good, do you have any concern with the ports buzzing when in use being so close to the wall?

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[jcmccorm]

Nice work!

 

[dtsdig]

Looking good, do you have any concern with the ports buzzing when in use being so close to the wall?

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Thanks! No, there is a couple mm between the edge of the port and the side wall. It just wasn’t all aligned for the picture. They won’t be touching when it’s all done.

 

[Charles Collins]

Very nice work! A drum sander is something that I could make good use of. But it would need to be a small one due to the limited space of my shop. Do you have any experience with the small drum sanders and have any advice on which ones are good?

 

[dtsdig]

@Charles Collins I'm not sure what you consider as small, but I see Grizzly offers one as small as a 10" capacity. I have the Laguna SuperMax 19-38 and it's the only drum sander I have experience with. I never thought I would use it as much as I do, but I use it often. Since my planer is only a 13" benchtop style, I have used the extra capacity on my sander to plane down rough cut boards instead when in a pinch. Works great!
In my mind, the overall difference in shop space footprint between a small capacity machine and a larger one is negligible. As with every other machine in my garage, the sander is on casters and can be tucked away when I'm not using it.

 

[Charles Collins]

@Charles Collins I'm not sure what you consider as small, but I see Grizzly offers one as small as a 10" capacity. I have the Laguna SuperMax 19-38 and it's the only drum sander I have experience with. I never thought I would use it as much as I do, but I use it often. Since my planer is only a 13" benchtop style, I have used the extra capacity on my sander to plane down rough cut boards instead when in a pinch. Works great!
In my mind, the overall difference in shop space footprint between a small capacity machine and a larger one is negligible. As with every other machine in my garage, the sander is on casters and can be tucked away when I'm not using it.

Thanks, I already have a few other power tools on wheels. I might try to figure out something.

 

[dtsdig]

Big progress last night! These things are taking shape. Lots of angles and all miter joints are making this challenging, but that’s what it’s about for me. Aside from a 1/4” strip on each of the baffle side edges, I am building these so there is no other MDF “endgrain” anywhere on the cabinets.
Who says you can’t get repeatable cuts using a track saw?

Note these joints are not glued or anything. They’ll be nice and tight when I’m done with them. Most importantly, the backs are parallel to the baffles (so far).

 

[jcmccorm]

That looks fantastic. No end-grain = Victory.

 

[Trimlock]

I want a track saw, for the very same reason. Plus I work with a lot of slabs and track saws are pretty much the go to for those.


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[dtsdig]

I want a track saw, for the very same reason. Plus I work with a lot of slabs and track saws are pretty much the go to for those.

I've had my Makita SP6000J1 kit since January 2014 and have used the snot out of it. Still looks and works like new. When I start a new project like this one, I set up the cutting table I built that allows me to make all the big cuts on a full sheet of MDF using the track saw. If the broken down panels need additional work, I'll move over to the table saw, like for the miters in this case. Most importantly, I am not working on the floor or trying to wrestle full sheets of MDF on the table saw, and when hooked up to my vac, the dust collection is very good on it. I used it for a couple of kitchens worth of 2 inch thick butcherblock countertop cuts and it worked great. For around $400, I highly recommend the Makita kit. If you are regularly doing thick slabs and such, you may have to look elsewhere for more power (and spend way more money).

 

[Trimlock]

I’m not sure which kit would come with more power. The Festool for example is comparatively weak despite costing a brick.

I won’t need power I think. Right now I’m using a straight edge and a 6.5” battery powered Makita. I can stall that really easy without much effort.


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[jcmccorm]

I had to look up what a track saw was. How did I not know about these? I've been using a Dewalt circular saw with aluminum straight-edge to cut up sheets and a small Ryobi table saw to fine-tune the sheet components. A track saw would likely save me some "do-overs".

 

[dtsdig]

@Trimlock I'll tell you what, if I had money to burn and didn't already own the Makita, I would be going with the Bosch setup that is finally available in the US. The 63" track would be much nicer than the 55" Makita and the Bosch is slightly more powerful at 13 amps vs 12.

Bosch 6-1/2 in. 13 Amp Corded Track Saw with Free 63 in. Aluminum Tracks and Carrying Bag-GKT13225FSN1600 - The Home Depot

The Bosch GKT13-225 Track Saw with Plunge Action delivers precision and power, ideal for making table-saw quality cuts to wood and wood-based sheet goods such as laminated particle boards and plywood.

www.homedepot.com

@jcmccorm If you can spend for it, a track saw would completely change your game! I used mine for everything I built before I got my table saw and still use it frequently. It can be very accurate (if set up properly) and it's really quick to set up and make cuts with.