Dual Beast Mode Devastator Build and Integration

Creating this thread to highlight my newest build!

Let the fun begin!

I started the build by cutting all required pieces from 8 sheets of arauco plywood per the converted dimension sheet attached

33 plywood pieces each for a total of 66 plywood dimensional pieces. Massive cut list for sure.

I have a table saw but cutting down a full sheet of 3/4” plywood was a bit too much for me to attempt on the table saw. The ideal tool here would be a tracksaw but for those that do not already own a tracksaw this guide is perfect. Took me less than an hour to put together including glue drying time and proved to be a life saver. Highly recommend this for accurate tips of the plywood.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/saws/two-essential-saw-cutting-guides/

Sorry I digress...let’s get back to the build!

The first pieces I put together were the from port rails to the inner baffle. It is mission critical that these port rails remain flush with the top and bottom of the baffle. These part also requires a notch to be cutout to allow the installed driver to flex without contact. To cutout the notch just test fit the port rail and measure about an inch from the edge of the driver cutout on both the upper and lower area of the port rail. Cut at this location 2” deep. Below is a picture for reference.

Attach the rails to the inner baffle however if you are using pocket holes than take note to the picture above and below as they provide reference to the locations pocket holes would be helpful.

Once you have the inner baffle completed to this point...

I began work on the BMD enclosure itself.

I attached the top and front panel to the side and then installed the inner baffle with the Port rails. Again pocket holes proved to be extremely useful here again as clamping some of these pieces can be tricky.

Next up was the installation of the port rails, port boards and bottom board.

The order that I installed them was the same as outlined in the OG devastator page.

Port bottom —>bottom—>port back

Here is a picture of the finished result.

Had to use some clever clamp techniques to get it to stay nice and flush lol

With the glue dry enough to unclamp I moved onto the side installation. This required a combination of around 7 total clamps and about 12 pocket holes to ensure it lined up perfectly.

Starting to actually look like a subwoofer!!!

It’s about this point that the realization of the sheer size of this beast really sets in. To quote my wife “WTF that is huge”

...couldn’t of said it better myself lol

Getting the bracing installed took a little time as I used a scrap piece of plywood to ensure that the spacing was correct. To me this is crucial bc you can fill gaps if there are any at this point but when you out the back on it better Be flush because there is no way to get back inside this area.



Copious amounts of PL3 is recommended when installing the back! I used clamps all the way around and even used 2 wood screws on the bottom to make sure everything stays perfectly flush. Not a big deal for my build as they will be covered by the finishing work I will be doing.


Before installation of the back panel I recommend running the speaker wire and cutting out whatever size hole is needed for your connector. I also ziptied the wire tightly to the window braces to ensure nothing rattled inside this beast.



With the back installed it is time to mount the driver internally. I used 1/4” speaker foam to ensure the driver has a nice tight seal.

I also used copper washers to help seat the driver as tight as possible and not stress the driver holes.




Once the driver is mounted it’s time to cut the speaker wire to fit. Install the speaker wire to the driver and solder the other end to the speak on connector.

At this point you should ensure that everything is completely finished. Once you seal this up you do not want to have to open it again as the top should be very flush which makes it fairly difficult to open again.

Wrap the 2x4s in the same speaker foam used for the driver to help ensure an airtight seal. This foam with the pressure from the screws are all that holds the air in so ensure a seamless install of the foam.

With the foam installed it’s time to close up the final piece.

It is at this time I planned to test the enclosure to ensure it is well build before putting the work into finishing and painting.


Well getting back to work I sanded down the enclosures to make them smooth and even as possible. Then trimmed the enclosure using 3 inch strips of plywood. I went ahead and did all sides except the back. This allows me to stand it up or lay it down and maintain the finished look. Inside the plywood trim I added some pine cove molding to help give it a more finished look. It’s harder to pick out in pictures but looks great in person.

After getting everything cut and nail down all nail holes and seams were sealed using spackle. The modeling was caulked and the box was sanded one last time. At this point it is basically ready for paint. Hopefully I can get to painting them next weekend.



More to come as this is my current progress.