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73 Posts
Hello all!
It's been a while since I posted, probably since I posted about my entertainment center, but I am currently in the process of building my first ht sub. Here are the details:
Here is my current project. I will be using 1" MDF. The size of the enclosure will be 20x23x34. The volume before displacement is 7.0 cu. ft. Volume after displacement is 6.025 cu. ft. This enclosure will be ported. The ports will be (3)3"x20.8". This enclosure is designed to handle 1024 watts and will use 2 of the RE SE12 D4 subwoofers. The subs displace 0.15 cu. ft. each. The ports displace 0.11345 cu.ft. each. I have included the bassbox 6 sheet for everyone to look at. The design should produce 120+ db of bass with the wattage provided to it. The enclosure will be covered in red oak veneer and stained to match my entertainment center.
2/6/2010
2/9/2010
2/13/2010
Changes to the design some......
2/15/2010
2/20/2010
2/25/2010
2/27/2010
Here is the BB6 File
SC HTSW001
This is a basic time-line gathered from my posts on my web site www.scaudioconcepts.com and hometheatershack.com, which can be found here:
http://www.scaudioconcepts.com/modul...d=2#forumpost2
http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...b-build-2.html
Thank you all for taking the time to look at my project!
It's been a while since I posted, probably since I posted about my entertainment center, but I am currently in the process of building my first ht sub. Here are the details:
Here is my current project. I will be using 1" MDF. The size of the enclosure will be 20x23x34. The volume before displacement is 7.0 cu. ft. Volume after displacement is 6.025 cu. ft. This enclosure will be ported. The ports will be (3)3"x20.8". This enclosure is designed to handle 1024 watts and will use 2 of the RE SE12 D4 subwoofers. The subs displace 0.15 cu. ft. each. The ports displace 0.11345 cu.ft. each. I have included the bassbox 6 sheet for everyone to look at. The design should produce 120+ db of bass with the wattage provided to it. The enclosure will be covered in red oak veneer and stained to match my entertainment center.
2/6/2010

2/9/2010
Quote:
Construction started today at lunch. I have nearly all the major cuts done. 1" MDF is some HEAVY stuff! Thanks to my buddy James for helping out! I also have a few updated renders of the enclosure with the new bracing design. Here they are.




2/13/2010
Quote:
Well, here are some pics of the port support. This is without a doubt the most complex piece that this build has in it. It took me a couple hours to complete the support, but I think it turned out great. Not a whole lot of time to work on it today, but I have Monday off, so I will make some serious progress then.


Changes to the design some......
2/15/2010
Quote:
Well, I made some good progress on the enclosure today. I made some design changes (cosmetic) and I think that they were worth the extra effort. I have to still assemble the amp enclosure and cut out the back port holes and cut out the area where the amp will reside. The pics you see below are of the enclosure resting on its top. I also included a couple new renders that I made today before construction began.







2/20/2010
Quote:
More work done today. I got the table top done, the enclosure feet done in hardwood, and got a couple of the inside angle parts installed. I also got the amp enclosure done. I started out to get the ports flared, but time ran out. I am going to try the technique described on www.subwoofer-builder.com . We will see! I still have to cut the back and install the amp enclosure as well as cut the port holes for the back. I am using schedule 40 pvc for the port tubes. Flaring the ports will be interesting for sure. We will see how that goes. I've included some pics of the work done today.






2/25/2010
Quote:
More progress on the build. The enclosure construction is pretty much DONE! Just a bit of sanding, some body filler on some of the seams and the screw holes, which I am sure will happen on Saturday. I heated some of my schedule 40 pipe tonight to see how pliable it is when its heated with a heat gun, and I was surprised. It will mold just fine. I have to buy another hole saw though... ugh.... Anyway, here are the construction pics from both last night and tonight's work.








2/27/2010
Quote:
Well, not a whole lot of work was done today. I DID however get a couple ports made. Quite a few ports were ruined in the process LOL! The process is pretty difficult, to say the least. By far the toughest part of the build. The ports take LOTS of patience and an extra set of hands.
The process starts out like this.
I heat the pipe in about 1" sections, no more than that. Once it is to a pliable state, put it on the mold. This is where it gets tricky. You need to put quite a bit of weight on top of the pipe to get it to flare, but the key is giving it a twist while applying the downward force. By doing this, you will cause the bottom lip to fold outward, which is what you want, especially with schedule 40 pipe. If you do not perform the twist, the lip will fold in on itself, which is BAD. Once you have the lip (pipe wall) started properly, you just keep heating in about 1" sections, trying all the while not to heat the vertical portion of the pipe very much. If this happens, it will cause it to bulge outward, which is BAD! I ended up using a 1/2" radius for the mold and it worked out perfectly. Just keep applying pressure until you reach the outer diameter that you are wanting. I chose, 4 7/8". Also too, don't hold the heat gun on the lip too long or it will cause it to split. You want the plastic hot, but not too hot. Here are the pics.






Here is the BB6 File
SC HTSW001
This is a basic time-line gathered from my posts on my web site www.scaudioconcepts.com and hometheatershack.com, which can be found here:
http://www.scaudioconcepts.com/modul...d=2#forumpost2
http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...b-build-2.html
Thank you all for taking the time to look at my project!