[talunceford]

Hello all!


It's been a while since I posted, probably since I posted about my entertainment center, but I am currently in the process of building my first ht sub. Here are the details:



Here is my current project. I will be using 1" MDF. The size of the enclosure will be 20x23x34. The volume before displacement is 7.0 cu. ft. Volume after displacement is 6.025 cu. ft. This enclosure will be ported. The ports will be (3)3"x20.8". This enclosure is designed to handle 1024 watts and will use 2 of the RE SE12 D4 subwoofers. The subs displace 0.15 cu. ft. each. The ports displace 0.11345 cu.ft. each. I have included the bassbox 6 sheet for everyone to look at. The design should produce 120+ db of bass with the wattage provided to it. The enclosure will be covered in red oak veneer and stained to match my entertainment center.




2/6/2010

2/9/2010

Quote:
Construction started today at lunch. I have nearly all the major cuts done. 1" MDF is some HEAVY stuff! Thanks to my buddy James for helping out! I also have a few updated renders of the enclosure with the new bracing design. Here they are.

2/13/2010

Quote:
Well, here are some pics of the port support. This is without a doubt the most complex piece that this build has in it. It took me a couple hours to complete the support, but I think it turned out great. Not a whole lot of time to work on it today, but I have Monday off, so I will make some serious progress then.

Changes to the design some......

2/15/2010

Quote:
Well, I made some good progress on the enclosure today. I made some design changes (cosmetic) and I think that they were worth the extra effort. I have to still assemble the amp enclosure and cut out the back port holes and cut out the area where the amp will reside. The pics you see below are of the enclosure resting on its top. I also included a couple new renders that I made today before construction began.

2/20/2010

Quote:
More work done today. I got the table top done, the enclosure feet done in hardwood, and got a couple of the inside angle parts installed. I also got the amp enclosure done. I started out to get the ports flared, but time ran out. I am going to try the technique described on www.subwoofer-builder.com . We will see! I still have to cut the back and install the amp enclosure as well as cut the port holes for the back. I am using schedule 40 pvc for the port tubes. Flaring the ports will be interesting for sure. We will see how that goes. I've included some pics of the work done today.

2/25/2010

Quote:
More progress on the build. The enclosure construction is pretty much DONE! Just a bit of sanding, some body filler on some of the seams and the screw holes, which I am sure will happen on Saturday. I heated some of my schedule 40 pipe tonight to see how pliable it is when its heated with a heat gun, and I was surprised. It will mold just fine. I have to buy another hole saw though... ugh.... Anyway, here are the construction pics from both last night and tonight's work.

2/27/2010

Quote:
Well, not a whole lot of work was done today. I DID however get a couple ports made. Quite a few ports were ruined in the process LOL! The process is pretty difficult, to say the least. By far the toughest part of the build. The ports take LOTS of patience and an extra set of hands.


The process starts out like this.


I heat the pipe in about 1" sections, no more than that. Once it is to a pliable state, put it on the mold. This is where it gets tricky. You need to put quite a bit of weight on top of the pipe to get it to flare, but the key is giving it a twist while applying the downward force. By doing this, you will cause the bottom lip to fold outward, which is what you want, especially with schedule 40 pipe. If you do not perform the twist, the lip will fold in on itself, which is BAD. Once you have the lip (pipe wall) started properly, you just keep heating in about 1" sections, trying all the while not to heat the vertical portion of the pipe very much. If this happens, it will cause it to bulge outward, which is BAD! I ended up using a 1/2" radius for the mold and it worked out perfectly. Just keep applying pressure until you reach the outer diameter that you are wanting. I chose, 4 7/8". Also too, don't hold the heat gun on the lip too long or it will cause it to split. You want the plastic hot, but not too hot. Here are the pics.

Here is the BB6 File

SC HTSW001


This is a basic time-line gathered from my posts on my web site www.scaudioconcepts.com and hometheatershack.com, which can be found here:

http://www.scaudioconcepts.com/modul...d=2#forumpost2

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...b-build-2.html


Thank you all for taking the time to look at my project!

 

[Erich H]

Excellent looking build. I'm quite jealous of your computer drawing skillzz.


What size ports are you using? And did you take a photo of the mold you used for the ports?

 

[stgdz]

excellent craftsmanship

 

[jpmst3]

Fantastic!!!

This is one of nicest, most practical builds I have seen in a long time!


Bravo!

Nice work man!


I will be looking forward to seeing the finished product!

 

[talunceford]

Thank you all!


I will be posting more photos as time goes on. The veneer should be here this week, as well as all of the parts. I will be using veneer purchased from oakwoodveneers.com.


To answer some of your questions. I will take a picture of the port mold tonight and show that as well. The port size is 3" schedule 40.


Thanks again for the comments!

 

[Erich H]

Can't wait to see more photos. Was there a reason you went with 3" PVC versus 4"? I would've thought 4" would be necessary for those.

 

[talunceford]

Actually there isn't much difference between the 3" and 4", velocity wise. The main difference is the fact that with the 4" I would only have to run 2 ports, but they would be 24" in length, verses the 3, 3" ports that run 22" in length. The reason? I guess 3 looks better LOL! Velocity wise, there is about 2 100ths of a millisecond in vent velocity. The vent velocity on this box with 1200 watts is only about 1.78 milliseconds.... which is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay low! I will only be running 1024 watts. The peak velocity is around 18hz....

 

[reecew]

What part of OK are you in? Your not F'n around, beautiful build and crafstmanship! Seriously you should be very proud lol. Whats the enclosure tuned to?

 

[talunceford]



Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew /forum/post/18232913


What part of OK are you in? Your not F'n around, beautiful build and crafstmanship! Seriously you should be very proud lol. Whats the enclosure tuned to?

Thanks! The enclosure is tuned to 20hz. I live in a small town just west of Liberal, Ks.

 

[RobG5589]

WOW! That looks amazing. Can't wait to see them finished.

 

[jpmst3]

A possible suggestion and not a critique...


You might want to consider a slightly lower tune if you are using this bad boy for HT.

The tuning is not exact, only a calculated guesstimate, so 20 might actually be 21 or 19 or something slightly different.

I would go with 18Hz tuning or so then HPF to 20 if that is your desired tune.


Like I said, just a suggestion, your build is sweet!

 

[talunceford]



Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 /forum/post/18234558


A possible suggestion and not a critique...


You might want to consider a slightly lower tune if you are using this bad boy for HT.

The tuning is not exact, only a calculated guesstimate, so 20 might actually be 21 or 19 or something slightly different.

I would go with 18Hz tuning or so then HPF to 20 if that is your desired tune.


Like I said, just a suggestion, your build is sweet!

Thanks for the suggestion! Actually, that would be perfect. I actually like that solution better anyway! Plotting it out, using that suggestion gave me a tad more performance. Sweet, thanks! Being that the port construction isn't finished yet, changing the length is no biggie!

 

[jpmst3]



Quote:
Originally Posted by talunceford /forum/post/18234735


Thanks for the suggestion! Actually, that would be perfect. I actually like that solution better anyway! Plotting it out, using that suggestion gave me a tad more performance. Sweet, thanks! Being that the port construction isn't finished yet, changing the length is no biggie!

I was hoping that was the case, that you hadn't glued and screwed everything.

Glad I could help.

Yes, it is usually better to tune a little lower than you think, you can always HPF to the desired level to protect the drivers, but then at least you are not kicking yourself later that that sims are off a Hz or two.


I prefer lower tuning, say 15-18Hz for HT, but of course it is a balancing act with enclosure size too.

 

[ufokillerz]

wow that looks great

 

[Kevin A]

Great looking build! I look forward to more pics!


Good job!

 

[talunceford]

All the equipment is in. Will have pics tonight....

 

[jpmst3]



Quote:
Originally Posted by talunceford /forum/post/18256337


All the equipment is in. Will have pics tonight....

Looking forward to it!

 

[talunceford]

Here is the equipment.... no pics of the enclosure as of yet.... still lotsa work to do yet on the box itself. Was gone a couple days this week to a school board meeting in OKC, so there went two evenings of work time. Anyway......

 

[flyingvfreak]

Outstanding!! Pro all the way please keep us Updated , I want to see the Finished Product!

 

[talunceford]

Well, more work done today. Most of the work was concentrated on the port construction. One thing learned today is that pipe clamps work the best for compressing the heated pipe. Also too, if you get a bulge in the pipe, stop, pull the pipe off, reheat and start over. The bulge will go away if you reheat the pipe. I had my dad take some pics of me performing a flare to show you guys how the process goes. I also included some pics of the mold itself.

One of the other items installed today was the neutronix connection. It is a pro-audio connection for power amps, which works out great for the passthrough connection into the enclosure from the amp itself. I ordered it from parts express.

I painted the bottom trim board as well. I wasn't completely satisfied with the finish of it. Some blemishes can be seen. I think I will sand those areas down some more, add some filler and re-paint it.

I also test fit all of the components to make sure that they fit properly. Which they did. The one major problem that I came across was mounting the amp. When I attached the amp box to the enclosure itself, I drilled my mount holes in the EXACT spot that the amp needed. So I had to chip out the bondo, remove the screws, redrill new holes and replace the screws. Once I did that, the amp fit perfect. All the holes already drilled of course LOL!

Anyway, that is all I can think of ATM. If I think of anything else, I will post it. Enjoy the pics.