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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Dual sealed Infinity 12" subs w/ stands (CHEAP!)

Inspired by this thread. Figured I'd post this given the low cost, perhaps encourage others with small rooms.

Using the Infinity 12" 1262w (LINK) rated at 300watts rms 1200wats peak
For power, the Behringer Inuke3000dsp (LINK) 680 watts into 4ohms per channel, my application

The thread linked above used a diysoundgroup 1.5cuft flatpack. My enclosure is 3cuft, made from 3/4 mdf. To make it easy on myself I had lowes cut the sides and top/bottom for me, then I cut and fit the back and front at home. Glued together with wood glue, brad nails for good measure and clamps overnight on each step. Joints sealed with glue then caulking. I used a rotozip to cut the driver holes out. (Pain in the ass)

My room is 12x12. My goal is to reach 18-20h at 100dB+ with these two subs. So far the cost is $467 :eek: which is less than say, a single svs pb1000. I expect these to outperform that sub by some measure.

Update: I'm testing out plastidip on mdf to see how it comes out. I'm also considering using stands with the subs as shown in the picture below. I'll have to play with placement, though that is limited, and stands for several days I'm sure.




Room layout






(placement not final)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I dont have the tools to do a proper recessed cut out, but I'm happy with the driver bolted right to the outside. Cut out looks terrible (done by hand and my math), but the driver will cover it completely. Tomorrow I will start sanding.

 

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Look'n good.

Couple of questions/comments:
- From the pics, it appears the bracing is up against the rear baffle. Is that correct? Are you planning on any bracing in the middle of the cabinet? The point of the bracing would be to prevent the walls from flexing, especially on a sealed sub.

- I wouldn't recommend placing any subwoofer on a stand, at least not one which is a post like design (pictured). If it was a dual opposed, that would be okay. As it is the driver will loose output due to inertia/momentum from rocking. If the stand was SOLID and filled and maybe even pyramid shaped, that would be better.

Good luck and let us know how the finish turns out!
 

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Look'n good.

- I wouldn't recommend placing any subwoofer on a stand, at least not one which is a post like design (pictured). If it was a dual opposed, that would be okay. As it is the driver will loose output due to inertia/momentum from rocking. If the stand was SOLID and filled and maybe even pyramid shaped, that would be better.
+1, those things are going to sway back and forth unless you plan to bolt them to the floor, however it kind of sounds like you are using 4 drivers in 2 dual opposed boxes. Curious what your actual plan is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
To clarify, I am not doing dual opposed. One sub in each of the 2 sealed cabinets.

Those stands are steel and weigh about 35lbs, the top has a large flat piece same as the bottom of the stand that holds the box. The current sub sounds smoother and more accurate when on the stand, I figured I'd give it a shot. I plan on placing the subs on either side of the tv. If I placed them in the corner I would need to set my L/R speakers ontop of the subs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Painted the drivers. Plastidip- well, I don't like it and certainly not on mdf. If these subs preform well and meet my goals, I will most likely take them back out and round edges. May even paint with duratex. Tomorrow I will pack them with polyfill. Everything should arrive in the mail Friday...



 
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