Hey all, just finished my dual sealed TC-12 project. Two TC sounds TC-12 drivers, each in an ~2cf enclosure (net), with 2lbs. polyfill stuffing each. It was certainly a learning experience, and there are a few things I'd do differently now that I'm a bit wiser. It's a lot tougher than I thought to build something as simple as a box. Getting it all squared and getting the panels all to line up is a challenge, at least to a first timer like me.
Boxes were built out of 3/4" birch plywood, with MDF internal bracing as well as MDF panels attached to the inside of the birch panels. The front baffle is a double thickness of birch ply. The edges are lined with hemlock, since my Dad had scrap MDF and the hemlock; I only had to buy the 4X8 sheet of plywood. Here's a full parts list:
4X8 sheet of birch plywood
Hemlock trim
MDF for bracing
Spikes:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=240-715
Gasketing Tape:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-542
Binding posts:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...umber=091-1245
Home Depot 12 gauge speaker wire
Polyester fiberfill from some fabric store
T-nuts
Elmers wood glue
Minwax pre stain conditioner, stain, and poly coating
Finish: Sanded cabinets with 150 grit with a palm sander, then 220 grit by hand. Applied a coat of the pre stain conditioner as birch is a porous wood. Then two coats of natural stain, followed by 3 coats (400 grit sanding between coats) of clear semi-gloss poly coating. Overall, they look pretty good, but I discovered what a lousy sander I am, definitely an aquired skill. They sound MUCH better than my old subs, an Adire audio Rava and an Outlaw LFM-1. Those weren't bad subs, but I've definitely taken a big step up. The new subs go deeper (flat to 20 hz in room with output below that according to my SMS-1 and my room, which now has a lot of vibration), louder, and cleaner with more detail. In fact, my mains even seem more detailed, but that might be psychological. At any rate, it's obvious that the TC-12 is a great driver!
I'm attaching a few pics of the raw, assembled cabinets as well as the finished cabinets in their new home.
Next step: Getting GIK bass traps next week, looking forward to getting those set up. I also managed to strip one of the T nuts, so that will have to be fixed.
Boxes were built out of 3/4" birch plywood, with MDF internal bracing as well as MDF panels attached to the inside of the birch panels. The front baffle is a double thickness of birch ply. The edges are lined with hemlock, since my Dad had scrap MDF and the hemlock; I only had to buy the 4X8 sheet of plywood. Here's a full parts list:
4X8 sheet of birch plywood
Hemlock trim
MDF for bracing
Spikes:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=240-715
Gasketing Tape:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-542
Binding posts:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...umber=091-1245
Home Depot 12 gauge speaker wire
Polyester fiberfill from some fabric store
T-nuts
Elmers wood glue
Minwax pre stain conditioner, stain, and poly coating
Finish: Sanded cabinets with 150 grit with a palm sander, then 220 grit by hand. Applied a coat of the pre stain conditioner as birch is a porous wood. Then two coats of natural stain, followed by 3 coats (400 grit sanding between coats) of clear semi-gloss poly coating. Overall, they look pretty good, but I discovered what a lousy sander I am, definitely an aquired skill. They sound MUCH better than my old subs, an Adire audio Rava and an Outlaw LFM-1. Those weren't bad subs, but I've definitely taken a big step up. The new subs go deeper (flat to 20 hz in room with output below that according to my SMS-1 and my room, which now has a lot of vibration), louder, and cleaner with more detail. In fact, my mains even seem more detailed, but that might be psychological. At any rate, it's obvious that the TC-12 is a great driver!
I'm attaching a few pics of the raw, assembled cabinets as well as the finished cabinets in their new home.
Next step: Getting GIK bass traps next week, looking forward to getting those set up. I also managed to strip one of the T nuts, so that will have to be fixed.
