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I'm searching for the perfect DVD player for my new Panny plasma, within my budget, which is about $300. I was pretty much all set on a refurb Denon DVD-1600, but I felt I should ask the DVD board for advice first.


Well, they did a nice job throwing some doubt in my mind about the Denon. Not that it was bad, but that maybe I could do better. Specifically, the Momitsu V880.


DVI was never really a consideration because I obviously don't need upconversion with an ED plasma, and I was under the impression that upconversion was the real draw of the DVI players.


But then I was told by someone who had used both the Momitsu and an RP-82 that the Momitsu flat out smoked it, set at 480p over DVI.


And Kris from Home theater Hi fi advised that even though I have an ED plasma that I should get a DVI player and set it to 480p. He suggested a 5900, but that is out of reach for me.


Now another question that comes up, is what to do about an HD receiver. I had planned to use the DVI for HD, and I am not spending $200 plus on a switcher, so I would have to use component for HD.


Here is the big Q: will I notice more of a difference with DVI for DVD or DVI for HD? I'm sure some of you have wrestled with these same issues, and I know that I can get a lot of help here, since the Panny EDs are so popular.
 

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Well, you can choose to use component for one, and DVI for the other. Supposedly there are som upconverting DVD players that will upconvert over component in addition to DVI, but I'd confirm that with a relaiable source.


As far as DVI upconverting to 480p, I also was just going to rely on a non upscaling player, but someone mentioned the fact that although the panel is native 480p, it's 853x48-p where as DVDs are something like 7??x480, so there are some extra pixels that would benefit from the 1:1 match...


You could always see if you can just test out someone's upconverting over DVI player, to see if you notice any benefit. If it's pretty minor, it might make the decision easier for you.
 

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I don't have HD-TV but I do have an EDTV and an HTPC. I believe the theory is that there's a heck of a lot more pixels in HD-TV than HD-DVD. DVDs are recorded in 480p, whereas true HDTV is 720p or 1080i. The EDTV is a 480p set, at 852x480.


The Panny is going to downscale many of your HD pixels. Hence, from a pure mathematical perspective I'd think that you'd want the DVI for HDTV so that all the pixels reach the panny clean, and give the scaler the best possible signal to do it's job.


If I recall the technical theory [although I'm sure rogo will kick my butt as he's the god of specs], i think component has a very slight error margin to it. Hence, I'd leave that to DVD for the above reason.


Of course, tempering all of this is your usage ratio - if you watch DVDs 90% of the time, make that the cleanest signal, and vice-versa.
 

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I think you made the right choice, since I made the same choice as you. I have a Pioneer HD box connected via DVI and a Denon 2200 connected via component to a 42PA20. I didn't feel comfortable with the DVI DVD players that were within my budget for various reasons. I've also had a DVD player that was connected via the DVI input, and while the DVI connection might be a little better, I honestly have a hard time telling the difference between the DVI and component inputs.
 

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I have the 42 PWD6UY running a V880 through DVI and my Comcast 6200 through component. I was forced to switch because of the Comcast firmware issue (and we need to leave the box on all the time to record TiVo via S-video, so I couldn't program a Harmony macro to deal with the firmware issue, as many others have successfully done). I am hoping to restore the STB DVI connection at some point -- an additional DVI blade for the Panny is significantly less than $200. I swear that everything (TV and DVD) looks better through DVI but this could simply be mindgames and the PQ differences certainly aren't that significant in any event. I seem to have greater aspect stretch capabilities using the STB through DVI than through component, so that's another plus for that connection. In any event, it's cheaper to get another DVI blade rather than a DVI switcher, unless you need your other inputs. BTW, the V880 is excellent, except that it seems to have a lousy loader such that older DVDs have shutter issues. Newer DVDs are phenomenal. The 1600 is supposed to be one of the best all time players for the price (as I'm sure you saw in the shootout). I'm having fun playing around with all the inputs. My old Onkyo DVD player is running through component PC.


Jim
 
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