[Jonnydanger007]

Hi.


My power supply died for my DVDO VP50. I am wondering if anyone know how to get a replacement. ( either original or some generic model)


6V and 7.0A output.


I looked up the part number online SB067A0F11 and called a few places. They said " due to homeland security, we can't sell only sell to government contractors,etc.." They acted like I was buying plutonium or the power supply to a warhead or something.


Anyway, if anyone can help me out, I would sure appreciate it.


I need to get my VP50 running again with a new power supply.


Thanks for your help

 

[shingdaz]

I was told by Anchor bay they carry them and can be ordered from their Web-site for $50.

 

[Wilson-Flyer]

Just an FYI (and just because I remember running across this issue several times on this forum), there have been numerous posts warning not to use ANY PS except one from Anchor Bay with a VP.


I can't personally vouch for this because my two are just fine (knock on wood) but I do remember seeing that you can't find one compatible anywhere else and that if you try to rig something, you will most certainly ruin your VP.


Just a word of caution. Do with it what you may.

 

[Gary Murrell]

forget trying to locate one, you must contact ABT


-Gary

 

[Glimmie]

For $50 why screw around? That's a very reasonable price for an end manufacture supplied and APPROVED/SUPPORTED OEM product such as this.


Yes you can find surplus and other OEM products that will meet the specifications for less than half that price but unless you know how to wire the cable to the new supply you risk destroying the scaler completly.

 

[ctreesh]

I have rigged up a PC-XT power supply, and I can feed it +5vdc, and it works pretty good at 720p sources, but anything else, such as 1080p or 1080i, that missing volt seems to make a big difference in reliability. The unit reboots istself a lot and I really need that 6 volt rather then 5.


But....


I'm thinking since it sorta works "ok-ish" on +5, that that +6 is actually being converted to a +5 internally. If that is true, then I would think I could use the +12 lead on my PC power supply to feed the internal voltage regulator. BUT since it was expecting only 6 volts, and giving it 12 would be risky. It would probably work, but it would also put much extra stress on that internal voltage regulator.


6 volts and 7 amps is a very very very very hard to achieve with just stuff laying arround the house.


Has anyone been able to come up with any alternate power supply that can safely run the VP50?

 

[rtart]



Quote:
Originally Posted by ctreesh /forum/post/20876808


I have rigged up a PC-XT power supply, and I can feed it +5vdc, and it works pretty good at 720p sources, but anything else, such as 1080p or 1080i, that missing volt seems to make a big difference in reliability. The unit reboots istself a lot and I really need that 6 volt rather then 5.


But....


I'm thinking since it sorta works "ok-ish" on +5, that that +6 is actually being converted to a +5 internally. If that is true, then I would think I could use the +12 lead on my PC power supply to feed the internal voltage regulator. BUT since it was expecting only 6 volts, and giving it 12 would be risky. It would probably work, but it would also put much extra stress on that internal voltage regulator.


6 volts and 7 amps is a very very very very hard to achieve with just stuff laying arround the house.


Has anyone been able to come up with any alternate power supply that can safely run the VP50?

I just ran into the same problem with my VP30. I called the 'new' DVDO on the phone and got a 'I'm at a trade show...leave a message" answer. Sent an email and no response yet. Found a 'buy a new power supply" link on their site and found that the price for a replacement from them was $79...with $49 shipping (FedEx 2 day only??) So.... I pulled the case apart (if it's already broke, you're not going to hurt it any more) and saw two caps swollen. Two screws under rubber pads. Wiggle it a little and it will come open. Found residue from electrolyte inside the case and didn't have to think too hard to identify the problem. They are 1000uf 16V caps. Found a couple at Radio Shack that were 1000uf 35V rated. They are larger in diameter, but the same height. Take off the ground plane cover held on by a couple short wires. Unsolder carefully and lift off. Unsolder the caps leads and drop them off, then thread through the new ones. The (-) side goes on the shaded side of the board. (No I didn't notice this, I just took a picture before I took off the old ones.) Simple through-the-board soldering, clip the excess tail wire, put the ground plane back on and solder, and put it all back together. Make sure the LED gets into its hole so you can see it later.


Working fine now. Took 15 minutes and $3.79 including tax versus a week (if someone would ever take my order) and $108.