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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I screwed with my projector and now must do a complete video setup (k voltage, G2 ect.) Infact I have been working on this procedure for a couple of weeks with little success. I am using the instructions in the Service Alignment (for ECP 3100 series I think) for my ECP 3500.


For those of you in the know... I need access to your expertise......


Step 2 says ..set brightness to 0 and contrasrt to 0...then set R8 (on the neck board) for max brightness... I am assuming there is a typo in the manual and it should be B=10 ; C=0 ..although in my archive search some one said B=0; C=1 .... which one???


Step 5 says when setting the G2's (Bias Module Alignment) that adjust G2 so the Raster just turns on... does that mean for when you just see the first hint of activity or the point just when the whole raster turns on?...does it matter?



In the waveform adjustment (step 6) you turn all three pots fully clockwise and adjust for a white image (your feeding it a white image) by adjusting one or two of pots...which ones?..one or two? .......


The one step I really don't get is Step 8 ---- it says set B=10; C=0 and adjust R8 on each neck board for a GREY RASTER..... how the @#$%@$ do you get a blue, green or red raster to turn grey...they're going to be green, grey or red.... I got to be missing something here.....



Any help would be appreciated........
 

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I can answer some of the above....Maybe Mike or Tim can answer the rest. The waveform adjustment (step 6) means that you should have one of the three pots still at max depending on which two you needed to adjust to get a white image. That is, you would turn down one or two pots that were a little "hot" to get a white image that is as close to 6500K as you can get.

For step 8 I would assume that they mean a grey image on the screen...

For step 5 I turn the G2 until the raster "just" start to light up.

I am still learning the video chain setup myself and have jsut eye balled it for the moment. It's a pretty good image bt I'm sure there is room for improvement.
 

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Hello...


Step 2: yep, it's supposed to be B=10


Step 5: I turn my G2's to where the whole raster just becomes visible.


Step 6: Start with all three cranked to max gain, then turn down one or two to adjust for white. It doesn't matter if it's 1 or 2, they just don't want you messing with all three so that you don't lose your "reference" and slow walk your way into cranking them all down.


Step 8: Don't you mean R5? For this step, your supposed to have all tubes on and looking at the screen so that it will be gray.


Hope this helps.


Cary
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got to tell you the worst thing I ever did was @#%#^& with this projector. I am at my wits end and I would kick the $%#^#& out of it if I hadn't already mounted it on the ceiling!


I am now convinced that there is something wrong with the projector, not allowing me to agjust for a proper grey scales or colors. I follow the instuctions and still nothing but a washed out yellowish screen:


I start by doing a hard reset:


1. I connect a white image (from AVIA).... no problem;

2. I set C=0 ; B=10 .... no problem;

3. I adjust R8 on neck board for max brightness (the pot on the left if ceiling mounted) ... no problem;

4. I pop up the crsshatch and null the video , using the pots on the Video Control Board ... no problem;

5. I set C=0 and B=5 and set K voltages for 140v on neck board using R5 (with no signal)...no problem;

6. I adjust the G2 controls so they just turn on, C=0 ; B=5 ... no problem;

7. I crank up the Red, Green, Blue drive on the waveform board to the max;


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

8. I put up a AVIA grey steps image and adjust for best grey I can, I lower the dominants and insure that one of the pots remain at max....THIS IS WHERE I HAVE THE FIRST PROBLEM ....the red crt is on but barely visible on the screen while the blue and green display brightly.... I can turn up the red crt by using the G2, but that defeats the adjustment I just made just prior......I don't think this is normal? any way if I adjust [email protected] for the red up a bit and adjust the green and blue on the waveform I can get an okay grey scale.....


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Step 9 is to adjust the R8's on the neck board for a grey raster. Thanks for clairifying that means a grey screen... but what confuses me I just adjusted the waveform module drives for a grey screen...so it's already pretty grey.....



THERE YOU HAVE IT .... ANY TECHS in EASTERN CANADA Who want to make a few bucks in setting this piece od $^$$^ up PM me... I am willing to drop it off if I have to....


AM I MISSING ANYTHING?
 

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Step 8: I think your adjusting for white here (the bright part of the Avia image) and not really grey. You're saying that you don't get enough red out of it? Is it *way* off or could you keep red at max and just drop green and blue to get a good white??


Be sure you understand that you are adjusting two things - the gain on the waveform board for white and the individual brightness settings for RGB for grey (R8). You'll want to look at the bright bars and dark bars respectively for this.


And finally, don't give up!!! You're almost there!


Cary
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the encouragement.



I think the red is way off... if I turn the blue and green crt off the red is barely visible on the screen and I got to turn it up using g2.... I got a feeling this is the problem... could it be that whatever circuit feeds the brightness to the red tube is off....
 

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Make sure the cathode voltage is 140V, if it's higher, it gets darker (lower voltage is brighter).


What about with a signal driving it like a white field from Avia or even just a DVD? Is the red still too dark? Is the heater filament working in that tube? (you should see a faint glow when looking into the end of the tube from behind the neck board).


Cary
 

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Cary,


Could you please post a picture of where exactly the cathode is?

I would not want to get shocked...

Do I measure to the chassis?


My crt is working fine, I am just curious...


Thanks,

Arno
 

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With the projector sitting upright, look on the neck board and to the left of the hole in the center of the board you'll see a "K" on the silk-screen on the PC board. There's a little wire loop there for you to hang a scope probe. I usually just ground to the chassis. Carefule as it *is* 140V after all.


Cary
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yup the cathode voltage is 140 volts, and the heater filament is working as well. I use a white field from AVIA and the red is still dull. What's weird is that I don't believe the crt is bad because if i crank up the G2 the red lights right up ..... maybe the R8 pot is bad on the neck board...I'm going to switch the neck board with the blue tonight and see if the problem switches to the blue........
 

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Good idea about switching neck boards. Do you have to crank G2 up far to get it to light up? I have a red tube that has no burn but I have to turn G2 almost to the end to get it to light. The image is really dim too. I marked this tube "bad" and put it away. :(


Cary
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by jcmccorm
With the projector sitting upright, look on the neck board and to the left of the hole in the center of the board you'll see a "K" on the silk-screen on the PC board. There's a little wire loop there for you to hang a scope probe. I usually just ground to the chassis. Carefule as it *is* 140V after all.


Cary
I became aquainted with that 140 volts not once, but twice last night during the initial setup of my new ECP..... Not pleasant. You would have thought I would've learned the first time.


Andrew B.
 

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Guys!


I no longer have tech material on ECPs but there are two very common problems leading to any one color cutting out or intermitting. A) The video control board in the card cage had caps that were prone to short out over time and that channel would cut in and out; and B) the pins feeding the video harness from the backplane to the neckboards had metallurgy problems and would tarnish bad; best to solder the harness right to the pins and eliminate the tarnish threat, same for the pins in the neck board that the harness plugs onto unless yours are coaxial, those were not as prone to tarnish, but clean them anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well , I switched the neck boards and the problem followed the board ... so I guess know why I am having problems now....


As far as step 8 goes ... where the service seminar says to adjust R8 on each neck board for a grey raster with B=10 abd C=0 , I can only assume what they mean here is that you turn down the R8 pot for each raster so that it does not burn bright and is a dull color. The reason I suggest this is because since you adjusted the G2's in a previous step so the raster just turns on with B=5 ; C=0 - there isn't going to be anything displayed on the screen to adjust for ....


The service seminar really sucks and seems incomplete and has a number of typos..Is there a real service manual for ECP's out there....
 

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if you are talking about the PDF version of the guide ( www.ecpresource.com ), then yes I agree that it is incomplete.


Please let us know if you find better documentation.


I am currently looking for a detailed service procedure for the convergence module. My ECP 4100 suffers from a droop problem. on the far left had side of the grid (red only) the lines droop down.


I have tried adjusting both sets of rings ( the problem used to be all the way across now the problem is only on the left had side), that did not resolve the problem.


Anyone know how to fix the droop problem?


or


Anyone know how to service the convergence module?


The guide says to run the service procedure on the convergence module but its instructions are hazy.


Thanks
 

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There IS a full service manual out there (285+ pages) in .pdf format -- I forget exacly who was hosting it (you have to download it via ftp). Do a search for "PiDD" and send him a PM, I think he has it.


--Eric
 

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I didn't have the energy to read every post, so my response may overlap a bit, but here goes.


Start over....


Incidently, I've never posted greyscale adjustments before because my method is quite proprietary and works fast. But I'm feeling rather generous today, so fire up your printers - I won't be doing it again.


Side note - those little pots can get dirty over time, causing flickering. A non-lubricating PCB wash w\\squirted on them while rotating the pots will clean 'em up a bit.


1)After boards are dry, fire up PJ.

2)Input white pattern and set contrast to 1 or 2 and brightness (hereon referred to as B) to 5. Adjust R8 till all rasters are at max - use cut off switches if you can't see changes well. Waveform drive pots all at max.

3)drop C to 0, B still at 5

4)check K (cathode) for 140v and adjust as necessary

5)looking into lenses, adjust G2s until raster is "just" on.

6) Recheck K in case your previous adjustments were off by miles. Redo K if off by more than a couple volts - redo G2.

7)B to 10, C still at 0. adjust R8s for most grey raster overall on screen. You will only adjust 2 pots for this. If you touch 3 pots, stab yourself in the hand for not listening to me and start over. One of your R8s will still be at max when you are done - don't forget this.

8) Your K's are now screwed up again (interactive). B back to 5, C still at 0. re-check and adjust Ks. Go back to the front, look into lenses and re-adjust G2s until rasters are back to "just" on.

9) repeat steps 7 & 8 in that order one or 2 more times as these adjustments are interactive, until your greyscale tracks well from zero to 10 when adjusting brightness - bump C to 1 when checking this with all 3 waveform drive pots at max.

10) once proper grey tracking has been acheived, put up grey scale bars, C to 5, B to 5.

11) adjust ONLY 2 drive pots on the waveform board for best overall grey.

12) Open a tallboy beer, 'cause your done.

13) remember not to do any of these adjustments until your stigs and flares are fully dialed in, 'cause they will affect overall color balance and you'll be pissed you didn't do this first.


I can color balance an ECP in 20 minutes taking my jolly old time - 10 if I'm really in a hurry....A newbie will be done in about an hour to 1.5 hours.


There....(I can hear the printers humming already)
 
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