[Clarence]

One of my ECPs has a problem with the red tube. No, not the ECP I gave yesterday to my 3-year-old neighbor.


See attached picture. Sorry, I don't have my real digicam with me, so this was taken with a webcam.


The picture was taken with the lens removed. The corners are crystal sharp and the lines are hairline thin (the picture makes them look thick). In the corners, the grid lines look like they're supposed to... like they do on the Blue and Green tubes on this ECP, and like my other ECPs.


But the center is blurry as shown on the picture. And it is as blurry on the screen.


I can't focus it out optically with the lense, because it's this way on the phosphor.


I don't see any fungus and the glycol is crystal clear.


Adjusting the focus pots by the G2 bias module doesn't help.


Any guesses?

Is it with the tube?

Should I try swapping out the R neckboard?


Thanks,

Clarence

 

[HK-Steve]

Clarence,


OK, I am new to CRT's, but this does look like Fungus,

I have a pic of my blue tube, and I looks very similar.


In my second post, I have attached the same tube, but it isn't running.

I can clearly see the fungus.

It is interesting that you can't see any fungus, or a glycol problem.


I am sorry I don't have any answers,


You should try swapping neck boards to see if it moves to the next tube?



Cheers

Steve

 

[HK-Steve]

here it is,


Tube not running.



Cheers

Steve

 

[Clarence]

It's hard to take a picture (especially with a handheld webcam) of something (no visible fungus) that you can't even see with your own eyes, but here's a picture of the red tube turned off with lights on.

 

[HK-Steve]

That is really weird


I see what you mean by it looks clear and free of fungus.



Have you changed out the neck boards?

This will hopefully will show up something.


Cheers

Steve

 

[techman707]

Clarence,


There's NO SUCH THING AS FUNGUS. But, it IS what people call fungus, which is a chemical reaction to the aluminum frame and glycol.


Drain the glycol and fill it half way with CLR and agitate for 10 minutes, rinse it good a few times, blow out all the water with compressed air and refill with FRESH glycol. There are inks that you can use if you want to put the red glycol back. Check out B.Hegelstad's posts on the subject.


Bruce

 

[Clarence]

But isn't the chemical reaction between the aluminum frame and glycol usually indicated by particulate matter, crystals, or discoloration? I don't see any of that in the glycol.

 

[jsp]

heres a sony vph-1000 with "fungas"

http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...older/0063.JPG

 

[Clarence]

Yep... looks very similar to my red ECP. Nice and clean except for the fuzzy center.


I'll try Bruce's CLR technique.


I might drain the glycol out of my Ampro retro LC tubes and put it in the ECP... that's the same liquid, right?

 

[techman707]

Quote:

Originally posted by Clarence But isn't the chemical reaction between the aluminum frame and glycol usually indicated by particulate matter, crystals, or discoloration? I don't see any of that in the glycol.

Clarence,


I've done MANY of them like that. You don't necessarily have to see anything but the haze. I got tired of butchering the tubes by cutting off the glass and last year I started using the CLR method and it works great. I've done about 12 tubes that way with no problem.


Also, did you read my post on your P16 tube?


Bruce

 

[Clarence]

This ECP looks real nice except for the red haze, so I'll give it a try.
Quote:

Also, did you read my post on your P16 tube?

Yep... I'll be giving that a try, too. I'm more anxious to get a pristine Green in my 1208s/2 than I am about this ECP.


Does it sound OK to use the glycol from the LC reservoir of the P16LNP to refill this ECP tube?

 

[techman707]

Quote:

Originally posted by Clarence . Does it sound OK to use the glycol from the LC reservoir of the P16LNP to refill this ECP tube?

I don't see why not, if it's not contaminated.

 

[Maxxarcade]

You're probably better off getting some new glycol. MCM Electronics sells the stuff for a few bucks a bottle.


Besides the other coolant being used, it would be a double messy job to drain it and swap it, without getting dirt in it in the process. With the new stuff, you just squeeze it right out of the bottle into the tube, with little or no mess or risk of contaminating it.


I have a 1030Q with a hazy blue that I know has contamination, and I'm going to try the CLR method on that sometime. Cutting the glass off just looks like a real pain.

 

[wingatesl]

What is this CLR?

 

[Clarence]

CLR is just a brand of cleaner... you'll probably find it at the grocery store or WalMart. I think it stands for Calcium Lime Rust... gray plastic jug... green and orange label.


Notes to self:

http://mcm.newark.com/NewarkWebComme...SKU=212072&N=4

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...25#post4066525

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...66#post4312666

http://webperso.easyconnect.fr/elmeur/page4/Page4.html

 

[techman707]

Quote:

Originally posted by Maxxarcade You're probably better off getting some new glycol. MCM Electronics sells the stuff for a few bucks a bottle. Besides the other coolant being used, it would be a double messy job to drain it and swap it, without getting dirt in it in the process. With the new stuff, you just squeeze it right out of the bottle into the tube, with little or no mess or risk of contaminating it. I have a 1030Q with a hazy blue that I know has contamination, and I'm going to try the CLR method on that sometime. Cutting the glass off just looks like a real pain.

Whether you have a new bottle or not, you still have to use a syringe to inject it into the new tube. I pour the new coolant into a wide top plastic container first to fill the syringe from. If you're using the coolant from the tube, just drain it from the tube into the container with a coffee filter on top of it.


CLR is a calcium dissolver.