[Aaron Oz]

I've played with this for hours, and spend twice that in this forum looking for the answer... this is sort of a very exaggerated version what I'm seeing in dark, or black scenes:

http://www.aaronoz.com/raster.gif


The bright right edge stays no matter what the H size (via the remote) is. It also stays no matter where the image is moved (via the remote), so I'm pretty sure it's the raster somehow wrapping.


One post lead me to believe that somehow my G2 was up too high... so I reduce the brightness to 5, contrast to 0 and then reduce all the G2 knobs until it's gone, while looking into the lenses. Great I think it's all better!... then I put up my gray scale test pattern, and re-adjust the brightness and contrast, and voila, it's ba-ack. Now my brightness setting is simply higher than where it was, and I still have the problem.


So... I started messing with the horizontal size on the board directly under the green tube (R1). While this does reduce the size of the image, much like the H size on the remote, it has very little effect... ...So now I turn to the experts!


Any thoughts would be great!


BTW - I get this from my HTPC. If PowerStrip pushes it WAAAY to the left side, I can make it go away, but the image goes black because I just pushed the image out of the raster. I can push it way to the right, and make it REALLY bad. When I go to a 1080i HTDV source, it is also there.

 

[Andrew Low]

I always had this with my ECP. G2 helped a bit, but really what I wanted to be able to use was some left/right 'blanking' (but the ECP doesn't support this).


My 'solution' was to simply paint the wall surrounding my screen a really dark colour -- since it shows up outside the image area I was able to easily mask it this way.


As far as I can tell, its 'normal'.


Roo

 

[Aaron Oz]

That doesn't sound good


HBlank would certainly be nice... unfortunately this light edge is within the image area in this case.

 

[Zolzar]

I have the same problem and at this point have simply learned to just live with it.

 

[stefuel]

Did you try the MOVE button and center the image in the raster?


Chip S.

 

[Aaron Oz]

Yup. The move button simply moves the whole raster around, including the bright side.

 

[Shadow_Gato]

I don't think that is a normal state, I don't have that on my 4100. Then again it could be mine that is "missing it" .


Mike

 

[andyebr]

I had never noticed that on my 4500 but last night, I made the picture wider and it showed up. When I made it narrower again, it disappeared...


Andy

 

[acwashere]

I have a vidikron VPF40HD ( ECP3100 ).

Same problem here. It's out of the screen, but unfortunately the wall behind is a kind of white, and I don't want to change the room colours only for this reason.

Anyway, with a good calibration of G2 and white level is not so disturbing IMHO.

I think it depends a lot on how near the raster limit you push your projector.

The solution for blanking is quite easy, the bright border is out of the screen, so u can take out the lens group and phisically mask the tubes on their own front glass. someone told me even wich kind of material is to be used, but I don't remember 'cause, as said, on my PJ is not so evident.


ciao

alberto

 

[Aaron Oz]

andyebr,


Your's appeared and disappeard when you used the H Size to make the picture wider and narrower?

 

[andyebr]

That's how mine worked. It was almost like I had image wrap from going outside of the raster area but I didn't look at the tubes to know for sure. But it looked just like the picture you drew.


Andy

 

[Andrew Low]

Quote:

Originally posted by Aaron Oz That doesn't sound good HBlank would certainly be nice... unfortunately this light edge is within the image area in this case.

What is the screen width and throw distance of your setup? I suspect you might be too close to the screen, requiring you to use too wide a image on the tube face. All sorts of problems will pop up if you have your ECP mounted too close to the screen.


Roo

 

[Aaron Oz]

I was thinking the same thing... so for fun, I played with setting it up as if the screen was 70" rather than the 80" that it currently is... but as you make the size adjustments, that annoying light edge simply sizes with the image


80"x45" screen, front of the green CRT lens is 123" to the screen, on the nose... I believe that's correct for an 80" wide screen anyway, isn't it?

 

[Jay Wilson]

Pretty close Oz. I know to make maximum use of raster, go 1.5 x width which is 120". Ehome says a bit more....I think 1.515 x width plus 9". That puts you right in the middle so I can't imagine you'd be too close. Not sure what it is, but I think you can rule out closeness.

 

[jcmccorm]

Aaron, how close are the edges of your image (left and right) to the edge of the raster? Having the retrace lines "bunch up" at the edge of the raster is normal (the beam slows down and changes direction) , but the image should be away from this area.


Also, did you ever say what PJ you have? When I went to a 4500, it had an adjustment for contrast modulation on red and blue (I think) and it did some odd things to the edge of the image sometimes.


Cary

 

[Aaron Oz]

Hey Jay, thanks for checking that throw for me. I thought I was pretty close, but it's nice to have outside opinion confirm.


Cary, I think this is a raster issue as you describe. Although I have no way of knowing what the 'proper' distance for the image to be to the raster and the raster to the edge of the tube, I believe that my image is indeed too close to the raster edge.


So is there anyway of reducing in the image size within the raster? The H and V size simply reduce the whole size of the raster, including the edge.

 

[jcmccorm]

Yes, you need to do this with your source. You've got Powerstrip so just go into the advanced timing and shrink the image with the ->

 

[Aaron Oz]

I've tried the PS squeeze... If I go too far the PJ can't sync... but it does get it close. Unfortunately, the 1080i from my STB HD OTA receiver can't be changed... and the darn edge exists on that source as well.

 

[jcmccorm]

Hmm, doing the PS squeeze shouldn't change the H frequency *much*. PS does change it as you squeeze, as well as the V frequency, but I usually squeeze a little, then push the V frequency back where it was and then repeat.


So does your HD receiver have much of a gap on the other side of the image (away from the light bar)?? This is the beauty of using the Extron boxes inline with your RGB. Some of them have knobs for V and H sync that let you slide the image around within the raster like Powerstrip can. If you've got room, you can slide it away from the light bar.


Also, is your raster edge lined up with the edge of your screen? The edges of the raster should go beyond your screen dimensions. When you put up the crosshatch, the pattern should extend beyond your screen edges. If not, you are too close.


Cary

 

[Aaron Oz]

Thanks for the insite Cary.... I'll play with PS more, watching the V Freq.


The HD receiver is pretty tight. on the edges. That Extron box would be the perfect solution for a situation like this. If nothing else can resolve the issue, I'll certainly look out for that option.


The raster is just barely beyond the edge of the screen... the crosshatch lines are ever so slightly off the screen. Even if I was too close, if I pull back and then adjust he H & V size, the raster simply sizes too, and right back to where I was, aren't I?


Thanks for the info!