[Yoshi_HH]

Hi Folks!


As the counter tells you I'm new to this forum and would like to introduce myself with a technical question regarding startup problems with my Electrohome ECP 2100. I'm from Hamburg/Germany and quite new to CRT technology. Please excuse and ignore any mistakes with my english for I'm used to read in english but writing is not my daily business

So here's the story:

When I plug in the main power the relais on the standby power circuit clicks and the green OK LED on the back lites constantly while all other LEDs remain unlit. Pressing the power button on either of the 2 remotes I've got does nothing. I've measured the input of the IR-Receiver at the mainboard with a scope and get a decent signal while pressing buttons on the remote so I don't think this is the cause.

Maybe anyone here had a similar problem and can give me advice what to check next...

Thanks in advance!

 

[ruva]

mmm...weird.

Did it happened suddenly ? Did it work well before ?

Try to get your hands on the service manual, it could help you a lot.

 

[Yoshi_HH]

I've got the machine from a friend who told me it worked flawlessly until he moved it in his car for a presentation. It didn't start up there and he decided to give it away. So I wasn't there as it died...

I do have the service manual but no schematics, just the block diagrams. At least there are some voltage and wiring hints.

I heard detailed schematics for EH CRTs are hard to get? Maybe anyone could provide a PDF of the LVPS-schematic? I would suspect this one for the machine behaves exactly the same if I pull the plugs from it. But of course it could be any missing "I'm good"-signal...

 

[Kieth]

Try unplugging any cards/connectors you can find and resetting them into their sockets. Also look for any cracked circuit boards/blown fuses.


BOL,

Kieth

 

[Yoshi_HH]

Thanks for replying kieth!

I did that already, all fuses I found so far are OK, and I reseated all circuit boards in their connectors and checked all cable connections for proper seat with no result.

I measured the two voltages from the standby circuit and they are at 5V and 12V as supposed. I also checked for burned parts on every circuit board but nothing seems to be blown visibly.

I checked the solder joints of the "moving" parts as transformers and coils, and I resoldered some of them already, no effort. System goes to OK state and nothing happens as response to remote power button.

No clue what to check next... Is there any chance to get it running without remote control? I'm trying to get a cable remote unit at the moment to get another switch signal for testing...

 

[Yoshi_HH]

Just as a little update:

I did a lot of measuring in both power supplies this weekend and I didn't find any bad component. Each and every transistor and diode I checked was OK. I think I have a logical problem here. Can anybody with an ECP answer me the question whether the relais on the standby power supply has to click when you plug the machine into mains? Mine pulls on and stays on while power is connected. Maybe this is protection mechanism? Or is it normal? Please have an ear for this when plugging it in...

 

[Yoshi_HH]

A little follow up on this project:

I managed to get an ECP keypad and I am able to control the machine with it. But the remotes are still not working.

Did anybody ever have a bad remote receiver in a EH machine?

For I have two remotes that show signals at an IR tester I don't believe the error is with them.

 

[Chris_Holmes]

It could be the Dallas chip on the remote board gone bad. Have you tried doing a hard reset using the red button and the keypad "recall" button? The other thing to check is the battery in the remote. Don't laugh! I had a very similar problem last year after upgrading some parts and it turned out that the battery in the remote was dying. There was enough juice to turn on the little transmit led but that was all....Replaced the battery and it worked first time.

 

[Curt Palme]

Yes I have had bad IR receivers on this unit. Put the remote right up to the receiver and see if it works, the last ones I had had a range of about 1 meter.


So you're saying with a wired remote that the set works perfectly?


Curt

 

[Yoshi_HH]

Thanks for the input, guys!

I did already change the batteries of the remotes I Have two of them and both fail to work, so I would rather think it's something in the receiving part.

The Dallas-Chip maybe bad, for I have to readjust the convergence everytime I start the machine, but other settings seem to remain stable... Weird... But after > 10 years the battery in the chip almost has to be empty, right? I've had this problem with other circuits. I will try to get a fresh one or open this one and solder a new battery into it (have done this already, works forever with bigger batteries .

I held the remote in different distances in front of the receiver, nothing happens. I tried both code-settings with all tests, but nothing.

Then I disassembled the remote receiver to look for broken solder joints or connections, but everything looks fine to me.

I think I will ask a guy here in Germany to send me a used receiver to test it. If Curt had this problem already, maybe just my receiver died.

The Keypad controls are all as expected, no problems with it besides the short cable

 

[Yoshi_HH]

Some news on this project:

I found the St M48Z35Y70 Zeropower SRAM Dil-28 32Kx8 70ns to be a perfect replacement for the hard to get Dallas DS 1230y-150.

So the machine is up and running again.

But:

I still have no remote control. A new IR-Receiver didn't fix the problem, so it doesn't look like the receiver is the problem here. I do get a signal with the scope when pressing buttons on the remote but nothing happens.

The keypad works flawless.

Maybe someone with ECP schematics could have a look if there's a broken LM 3xx voltage separator in the line that causes the signal to vanish?

I have no clue where to look next without the schematics at hand...

 

[Joshua Snyder]

Whatabout projector "Address"?


does the ECP have vareable address like the Marque?


if it does, then you have to make shure the projector and the remotes are all on the same "address"


Josh

 

[Yoshi_HH]

I thought of this but I could only find out that there seem to be just two "code pages" to control 2 projectors in one room that can be software configured via menu. I think there have to be 2 different types of senders for that, right? I don't know whether mine are of type one or type two, but I know that my two senders worked together with this machine and I tried both receiver side code settings in my testing. The keypad is of type one I read but it works in either setting.