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Discussion Starter #21
I am off work all week and hope to make some major progress, but I need some help for the left/right Volt-10LX surrounds. I tried asking in the dedicated coax threads but so far haven't gotten any replies, so any help here is appreciated because I want to cut the panels tomorrow. I want to do floor standing ported towers, roughly 3 cu ft with a slot port at the base of the front baffle. I modeled the Beta 10CX in that sized enclosure, and it seems to indicate that I will hit the 5mm xmax with approximately 50W of power and would want the port tuned somewhere around 40Hz for a smooth response. I've modeled it with a 0.75"x11.5" rectangular port, and at 2.4" deep it estimates the port resonance at 2800Hz with a port velocity of 18.5m/s. Does the relatively low power to hit xmax indicate that the enclosure is oversized and would be better if it was slightly smaller? And how do I interpret the port resonance and velocity? I assume that I would want the resonance above the crossover frequency, so from my naive understanding this looks ok. Any issues or recommended changes?
 

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I would bump that slot port up to 1.25" high if you can, but keep the same length you will likely see tuning lower then the winisd model predicts. The enclosure volume is within acceptable limits for that driver, while the model predicts you will reach xmax with only 50w in reality you should be able to push 100+ watts into to before it starts to audibly sound distressed with average material. If you play something that has a strong note right at the excursion maximum and play it at high levels then you might notice it to start sound a little strained or distorted there but the driver should not be in any trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I would bump that slot port up to 1.25" high if you can, but keep the same length you will likely see tuning lower then the winisd model predicts. The enclosure volume is within acceptable limits for that driver, while the model predicts you will reach xmax with only 50w in reality you should be able to push 100+ watts into to before it starts to audibly sound distressed with average material. If you play something that has a strong note right at the excursion maximum and play it at high levels then you might notice it to start sound a little strained or distorted there but the driver should not be in any trouble.
Perfect, thanks so much!!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok wood has been cut from handy panels for the two 10LX 'mini' towers and two bookshelf sized 8LX. It was about $60 in wood and an hour of my time. I will need one more piece of wood for the tower bases because of a misfit. I will also need to trim the 8LX pieces down slightly to account for the veneer.

 

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Discussion Starter #25
 

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Discussion Starter #26
And that is it for today

 

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Discussion Starter #27
I flush trimmed and scuff sanded with 80 grit in prep for veneer today. Veneer should go on tomorrow. Here they are compared to the 1099 for scale.

 

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Discussion Starter #28
No work yesterday but here is some progress so far this morning. No issues that I can see so far. I'm moving on to side two after some water. I should finish veneer today.









 

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Discussion Starter #29
I am using contact cement and the scraper from veneer supplies, along with dowels and a small smooth foam roller from HD. Each surface gets a quick 80 grit scuff sanding. The MDF gets two cement coatings 30 mins apart, and the veneer gets one coat.



The cement goes down white and dries clear, after about 20-30 mins. The cement and roller is stored in a ziploc bag so it won't dry out and get sticky while I am working.

 
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Discussion Starter #30
Here is my technique to align the veneer - five dowels go down like this.



Then the veneer is placed and aligned - in this case I have roughly 0.5" or so extra. Once aligned the dowel at the end comes out and the last 5mm or so of veneer is pressed into the MDF.





Then the sheet is peeled back so the other dowels can come out, and then I work the veneer down roughly 1" at a time with the scraper.





And finished:



Even after flush trimming with the router, you need to clean up the edges with a sharp razor.

 

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Here is my technique to align the veneer - five dowels go down like this.



Then the veneer is placed and aligned - in this case I have roughly 0.5" or so extra. Once aligned the dowel at the end comes out and the last 5mm or so of veneer is pressed into the MDF.





Then the sheet is peeled back so the other dowels can come out, and then I work the veneer down roughly 1" at a time with the scraper.





And finished:



Even after flush trimming with the router, you need to clean up the edges with a sharp razor.

I used wax paper instead of dowels, worked great for me.
 

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Looking great thus far! Plans for finishing them?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I used wax paper instead of dowels, worked great for me.
thanks that sounds like it must work well. The dowels were suggested by a local colleague, and they work but they do stick to the cement a tiny bit. Another colleague said he used old window blinds as spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Looking great thus far! Plans for finishing them?

thanks they will be finished to match the 1099s - 5 coats of tung oil on the veneer possibly followed by beeswax. The baffles and other hidden surfaces will get painted.
 
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Discussion Starter #35
That is it for the veneer for now. I will line them with mattress topper tonight. I realize that I forgot to paint the port, and it might be easier to relocate it. Not sure.

 

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Discussion Starter #36
Things have slowed down a bit, but I cut, trimmed and rounded some baffles today. Hopefully I can finish the final prep for paint within the next week.

 

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Discussion Starter #38

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Discussion Starter #40
I could use some woodworking help - I have a gap roughly 1/32"-1/16" between the baffle (will be painted) and top panel (veneered) that I hadn't noticed before on one of the tower surrounds, and I need to decide how best to handle it. I couldn't get a good photo to capture it. With my 1099s I recall that the top and bottom pieces sat proud and I have sanded them with a block before I put the veneer on but it took a bit of of time and was difficult because I was sanding the edge. Now the side panels are proud, so I would need to sand them and it seems very impractical because I don't want to accidentally damage the edge of the veneer, so I'm wondering if it would be better to try to mix some sawdust and glue to sand flat, which seems bit easier in some ways but brings a different set of risks. Or should try to just go heavy on the glue to fill it and then paint over it? Alternatively I have some fill-stick from my kitchen cabinets and hardwood floors that I could use to try to fill it, but that seems pretty tough because the gap is so small. Suggestions?
 
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