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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just did a advanced search for the title "extender" in this forum and 22 results showed up but only one was related
to electrical outlets.

Regarding the one result that appeared, they talk about these "ReceptXtenders"
http://www.receptxtenders.com/contact.htm and
how you can "stack" them for deeper extension needs and I also Googled "2 inch extenders" and nothing came up.

I need to extend my existing electrical outlets (room is prebuilt and drywalled already by previous owner) by 2" to make them flush
with the Fabric Panel wall surfaces.

Is there no such product that is a 2" extender? They have 1 1/2" deep ones. Should I buy a 1 1/2" deep extender and buy a 1/2" and stack them? (on second thought, only ReceptXtenders types are "stackable" and the deepest they have is 3/4 inch deep, so I would have to stack a few of them)

Is there such a thing as a DIY extender made of wood?
 

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Just did a advanced search for the title "extender" in this forum and 22 results showed up but only one was related
to electrical outlets.

That 1 of the 22 results they talk about these "ReceptXtenders"
http://www.receptxtenders.com/contact.htm and
how you can "stack" them for deeper extension needs and I also Googled "2 inch extenders" and nothing came up.

I need to extend my existing electrical outlets (room is prebuilt and drywalled already by previous owner) by 2" to make them flush
with the Fabric Panel wall surfaces.

Is there no such product that is a 2" extender? They have 1 1/2" deep ones. Should I buy a 1 1/2" deep extender and buy a 1/2" and stack them? (on second thought, only ReceptXtenders types are "stackable" and the deepest they have is 3/4 inch deep, so I would have to stack a few of them)

Is there such a thing as a DIY extender made of wood?
What kind of junction boxes- plastic, or metal? If they have rounded corners and are metal, these are made for that-

http://www.zoro.com/i/G1639145/?utm...pydHTE93WyUMgq9AU-92oTjbkHhICBtqqKBoCDfXw_wcB

If they're blue plastic, these-
http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/Carlon-1-Gang-Box-Extender/0000000071685?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=shopping%2Bsearch&utm_campaign=google%2Bproduct%20search&gslfah&gclid=CjwKEAjw0q2pBRC3jrb24JjE8VgSJAAyIzAda79RZDrIEe6XJwR9UkyxjynNUVzbvWeaYl3dPPVVhhoC4tfw_wcB

If they're something else-
http://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/...ug7m99b69dCeUovDwvlWjKEHhInA22ttJzxoCKe3w_wcB

The last ones will work with any single gang box and none of them need to come from the sources in the links- I just posted the ones I wanted to show. They're all available in double gang, too.

No wood or other combustible material is allowed in a junction box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Maybe I need to completely remove the wires from the current outlets, takes out the current boxes and completely replace them
with a Carlton adjustable box? That sounds crazy though in contrast to buying four "1/2 inch" ReceptXtenders and stacking them for each electrical outlet for my required total increase in 2 inch depth.
 

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For a different view ( not sure what you have existing) check out Thomas and Betts company. You may want to check into junction box " extenstion rings" . Try to find a US equivalent. Start with a 4" square junction box then add the extension ring which will house your plug.They come in different depths to build out towards your finished face. Hope this helps.
 

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The BE1 are what I use but they only go to 1-1/2". Forget the Carlon ones.. they stink.

If it were me I would probably yank the boxes, patch the hole and surface mount a 4" square box. That way you at least are improving the sound proofing given the work you are going to have to do. If you have panels going up the patch doesn't have to be pretty.

the only other thing I can think of is put some 1-1/2" wood blocking around the receptacle, use the BE1 and have the receptacle and cover recessed 1/2" in the panel. Probably a logistical nightmare.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks for all of the responses everbody!!!!!!! :D

I'm just curious if these examples in the photos below are alternative DIY strageties that avoid having to purchase any type of extenders.

They are both photos from The Home Theater Book (hope I'm not copyrighting by posting the screen shots here) and in one of the photos you can see the text explaining the meaning of the outlet extenders.

Do these strategies avoid the whole purchasing of the extender idea?





 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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The only difficulty I can foresee is if the existing boxes are the nail-on type. In addition to cutting the nails, you would need to cut the plastic extrusions molded onto the top/bottom of the box. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to pull the box forward.

That's why I thought just cutting the drywall (ie a 8x8 square) out around the box.. yanking the box then patching (pull cables through hole 3/4 hole in drywall patch and seal with caulk) and installing a surface mount 2" deep box may be a viable alternative.

But if you have the tools (and 2" of slack in the wire) pulling the boxes forward would definitely work. Try one and see how it goes.

Alternatively, maybe you can just pull them 1/2" forward (without cutting the plastic) and use box extenders (eg a BE1).

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The only difficulty I can foresee is if the existing boxes are the nail-on type. In addition to cutting the nails, you would need to cut the plastic extrusions molded onto the top/bottom of the box. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to pull the box forward.

That's why I thought just cutting the drywall (ie a 8x8 square) out around the box.. yanking the box then patching (pull cables through hole 3/4 hole in drywall patch and seal with caulk) and installing a surface mount 2" deep box may be a viable alternative.

But if you have the tools (and 2" of slack in the wire) pulling the boxes forward would definitely work. Try one and see how it goes.

Alternatively, maybe you can just pull them 1/2" forward (without cutting the plastic) and use box extenders (eg a BE1).

Tim
Thanks Mr. Tim! You come forward with help again! I will read all of your responses in depth and I will figure out a solution.
BTW, I relocated the Hot Water Baseboard Heater this past Sunday with my brother-in-law there to help move that monster sized baseboard heater and help with the process even though he is not really a plumber, but a DIY guy himself. Overall it was a success thanks to the confidence you instilled in me :D with your support :D and your patience :D with our back and forth communication. I will post the picks and the steps on my build thread in the next day or two. :)
 

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I used adjustable boxes for my outlets and light switches. Provided flexibility to adjust and worked quite well in my opinion.

Adjustable box mounted. Hole remained in drywall to allow adjustment of the box. Installed an MDF backer box on the other side of the wall to prevent sound from escaping (optional if not soundproofing)


Built a frame for the electrical outlet in the panel. Then, cut an "X" in the fabric. Stapled the fabric to the outlet frame in the panel.


Fit the frame over the adjustable box, then adjusted the box to be flush with the panel.


Installed the outlet and plate:


I'm not sure about some of the methods posted above that use the MDF frames on the surface of the drywall. By code, I think you would need an electrical box or extender in that MDF frame to make sure electrical wires cannot contact combustible materials. Maybe those pictures are before the extenders are inserted.
 

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I cannot find these anywhere in Canada. $10.33 at Amazon.ca sigh
Hope this isn't a dumb question....but, do they have Home Depots in Canada? I got mine there. I'm sure Lowes, Mendards, Ace....any of the "big box" home centers should carry them, or something similar.
 

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Lol. There are plenty of HD's in Canada. I would suggest you go to an electrical wholesalers for custom depths. If you are in Ontario, try Googling Gerrie Electric/ Guillevin / Torbram/ Westburne/ Nedco. Hope this helps.
 
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