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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I have been discussing this idea on various threads in the DIY section and finally decided to just make my own build thread and get things started. This build is a direct results of my very large WAF! She does not want to see anything resembling a subwoofer anywhere in the room, thus the End-table subwoofer idea.

The build will consist of 2 End-tables each housing a SI HT18 powered by an Inuke 3000dsp. Each end-table will be positioned on either side of our couch in our living room. The room is very large (~4,000 cuft) so I'm hoping by having these extremely nearfield I will be sufficiently satisfied with the amount of bass. Currently I have a single SVS SB12-NSD sitting under our current end-tables next to the couch. This has done a good job for the most part, but always leaves me wanting more. Hopefully these 18's will do the trick!!

Ok, onto the design. Since the wife does not want to see the speaker these will be a down-firing configuration. Everything I have read said that this will not be an issue with the SI subs, but could someone confirm this? The approximate dimensions of the enclosure (excluding the height added by the legs) will be 20" tall x 23" wide x 35" long. For legs I can not remember if 3 or 4" legs were recommended, but I would like to keep them as short as possible to maximize internal box size.

The only other requirement that my wife had was that I had to include a drawer for our remotes. You can see this pictures in the Sketchup drawings that I have attached. My only concern is that the back of the drawer enclosure ended up being very close to the end of the port opening. As it stands now the back of the drawer area is 2" from the start of the port opening. I'm thinking this will only serve to increase the effective port length and should not cause any major issues, but if others could chime in on this it would be appreciated. Right now the effective port length is right around 45" and my estimated internal net volume is 5.2 cu ft. I think this should give me a tune right around 20hz.

I will update this thread as more details get ironed out and the building process starts. I do not currently have a shop so my Dad will be building the boxes for me, but I will get him to take pictures for you guys so you can see the progress. Thanks for tuning in and I hope you enjoy the build!
 

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Subscribed! Very cool idea. I am just starting to get into the DIY sub thing so I am trying to get as many ideas as possible and you have my curiosity piqued. Looking forward to seeing more. I just hope the remote drawer doesn't rattle like crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Subscribed! Very cool idea. I am just starting to get into the DIY sub thing so I am trying to get as many ideas as possible and you have my curiosity piqued. Looking forward to seeing more. I just hope the remote drawer doesn't rattle like crazy.
Thanks! I hope it doesn't rattle too! Don't think it will though since it will be enclosed by the same 3/4" MDF the rest of the box is made from, if it becomes an issue I'm sure I could line the drawer with something to keep vibrations to a minimum.

I should also note, there will be faux cabinet doors directly below the drawer so it looks like a normal endtable.
 

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Very nice! I considered a down fire for my end table Johnny box but didn't think that would be good for all the excursion of the SI HST 18. I like the drawer feature.


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Discussion Starter #5
Very nice! I considered a down fire for my end table Johnny box but didn't think that would be good for all the excursion of the SI HST 18. I like the drawer feature.


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Yea, if I was going with the HST I would want to be able to see that bad boy in action at all times!!!
 

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Thanks! I hope it doesn't rattle too! Don't think it will though since it will be enclosed by the same 3/4" MDF the rest of the box is made from, if it becomes an issue I'm sure I could line the drawer with something to keep vibrations to a minimum.

I should also note, there will be faux cabinet doors directly below the drawer so it looks like a normal endtable.
You could get really trick and have some fun with this and instead of faux doors, make them real or at least removable and put a plexi window behind the doors with some LED lighting inside the cabinet so you can look at the drivers. :grin:
 
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Discussion Starter #7
You could get really trick and have some fun with this and instead of faux doors, make them real or at least removable and put a plexi window behind the doors with some LED lighting inside the cabinet so you can look at the drivers. :grin:
Holy Hell!!! That's an amazing idea, then I can have my WAF and still show it off to my guy friends! I love to have my cake and eat it too!! Any issues with the plexi-glass flexing/resonating?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Put felt on drawer bottom. Put piece of 1/4" glass on inside of drawer. That's heavy and will keep drawer still. Legs at least 3", 3.5" is safer.
Awesome, Thanks. What about having the back of the drawer area only 2" from the opening of the port? Any issues or was I correct in assuming that this would effectively increase the port length? I'm not so much worried about the tune since a couple inches won't make much difference, but I'm a little worried about turbulence and port velocities...
 

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Awesome, Thanks. What about having the back of the drawer area only 2" from the opening of the port? Any issues or was I correct in assuming that this would effectively increase the port length? I'm not so much worried about the tune since a couple inches won't make much difference, but I'm a little worried about turbulence and port velocities...
Not 100% sure but I would probably want a bigger opening there. Either reduce drawer 1" in depth or reduce port length 1" or both. Just to avoid any issues.
 

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Ok, Thanks chalugadp! I'm going to have tons of questions during this build so I'm glad there are guys around willing to help out. Maybe LTD02 will chime in and give his opinion too.
 

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Any issues with the plexi-glass flexing/resonating?
I wouldn't think so as long as it's thick enough. They do it in car audio all the time. I used to have a box with a plexi window years ago and never heard anything bad. I would just make sure you do some kind of a gasket (e.g. Foam rubber, felt, weather stripping something like that). I would stay away from having the plexi touching the bare wood. Better safe then sorry. Also dont be afraid to use a lot of fasteners to mount the plexi down for even less chance of air leakage. If you dont want to see the screws you could always have a trim ring made wide enough to cover them. Or if you want a 'manly' look, use some shiny bolts and tighten them up before putting the sub in. That would ensure adequate torque on the plexi. LED illumination inside the box would be the icing on that cake. You can even get them with audio control so they would flash in sync with the music. :D The sky is the limit! Looking forward to seeing what you decide to go with. I will be taking notes for my own build.
 

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Squires,

I'm looking forward to checking out your build! I would try and get some pretty beefy drawer hardware… To reduce the chance of the drawer rattling. Or, you could router out some of the sides of the drawer and make a channel. You could then glue a small wood piece to the internal sides of the enclosure for the drawer to slide along. If you kept the tolerance tight, this could also help reduce the possibility of drawer rattles.
 

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" I'm thinking this will only serve to increase the effective port length and should not cause any major issues, but if others could chime in on this it would be appreciated."


as was noted above, increasing the area to one port height (by simply shortening up the port length by a hair) would be a good idea and will effectively serve as a right angle bend of the port. going much smaller than a port height will begin to choke off the port. I'm not really sure how that will impact performance though.
 

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also, I'm sure it goes without saying, but for some reason I feel compelled to say it...


...make sure the drawer section is completely sealed off from the rest of the sub. otherwise, the first time that you fire it up, the drawer is going to blow right out of the sub. :-0
 

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Discussion Starter #18
" I'm thinking this will only serve to increase the effective port length and should not cause any major issues, but if others could chime in on this it would be appreciated."


as was noted above, increasing the area to one port height (by simply shortening up the port length by a hair) would be a good idea and will effectively serve as a right angle bend of the port. going much smaller than a port height will begin to choke off the port. I'm not really sure how that will impact performance though.
I was planning on using a 2" port since my internal volume will be pretty close to that of the MartyCube which using a 2" port correct? Right now the gap between the back of the drawer area and the opening of the port is 2". Do you still think increasing it to 3 would be smart?

also, I'm sure it goes without saying, but for some reason I feel compelled to say it...


...make sure the drawer section is completely sealed off from the rest of the sub. otherwise, the first time that you fire it up, the drawer is going to blow right out of the sub. :-0
That would be fun to watch though and a fun trick to show my friends!! But yes, it will be completely isolated from the subwoofer compartment. Thanks for chiming in LTD02!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, did some more brainstorming today and had a question...

Right now I am using the Dayton Sub-link wireless system to get the signal across my room to my sub. I have had issues with it not triggering on the amp on my SVS sub when set to "Auto" so I simply leave it in the "On" position at all times and it works great. The current draw when no signal is sent to it is really low so it's not using too much power just sitting there.

My question is once I switch to the Inuke 3000dsp I don't want to leave it on all the time due to the fan noise/heat. Does the Inuke have a similar "Auto" on function? and if so do you think I will have similar issues with it if still using the wireless Sub-link system? Am I simply going to have to manually switch on the amp every time I want to use my AV system? Thanks guys.
 

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I nuke does not have auto on. But a trigger can be made for it I saw it in the FAQ. Another member suggested a trigger activated power strip to me in my build thread. I will look it up and pass it to you shortly. You just have to have a 12v trigger out on your AVR for that option.
As far as the wireless thing I'm not sure but if it's sending LFE signal to the amp I don't see why it wouldn't work.
Here's the link to the power strip
http://catalog.bitsltd.us/catalog/SMART/LEG3.html

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