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I meant just screw it to the back of the enclosure, outside the enclosure entirely.

There is another thread on hometheatershack that shows a way to modify the iNukes with better heats inks in addition to better fans.

If I had one I would also apply dynamat to the top panel of the case any anywhere I could including the plastic shroud directing airflow. I can't help but think that would help with noise dampening.
 

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I thought I'd add to this thread as I was inspired to build 2 end table subwoofers similar to OPs. I was originally going to build Marty's, but ended up going the easy route with DIYSG 4cuft flat packs. Drivers are SI DS4-18's, feet and tabletop are dyed & stained maple. The faux door is just a 3 piece (2 piece decorative trim & 1x2 poplar) frame with a wainscoting infill. They're powered by an NU6000DSP and even though they're not yet calibrated, they sound great!
 

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I thought I'd add to this thread as I was inspired to build 2 end table subwoofers similar to OPs. I was originally going to build Marty's, but ended up going the easy route with DIYSG 4cuft flat packs. Drivers are SI DS4-18's, feet and tabletop are dyed & stained maple. The faux door is just a 3 piece (2 piece decorative trim & 1x2 poplar) frame with a wainscoting infill. They're powered by an NU6000DSP and even though they're not yet calibrated, they sound great!
Kbrink, FANTASTIC job on those end table subs! They look like a million bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #364
I thought I'd add to this thread as I was inspired to build 2 end table subwoofers similar to OPs. I was originally going to build Marty's, but ended up going the easy route with DIYSG 4cuft flat packs. Drivers are SI DS4-18's, feet and tabletop are dyed & stained maple. The faux door is just a 3 piece (2 piece decorative trim & 1x2 poplar) frame with a wainscoting infill. They're powered by an NU6000DSP and even though they're not yet calibrated, they sound great!
Very nice! Glad I could inspire you. Hope they sound as good as they look.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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I thought I'd add to this thread as I was inspired to build 2 end table subwoofers similar to OPs. I was originally going to build Marty's, but ended up going the easy route with DIYSG 4cuft flat packs. Drivers are SI DS4-18's, feet and tabletop are dyed & stained maple. The faux door is just a 3 piece (2 piece decorative trim & 1x2 poplar) frame with a wainscoting infill. They're powered by an NU6000DSP and even though they're not yet calibrated, they sound great!
Very nice job!!

Did you purchase the feet or make them? Thanks Bob
 

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Very nice job!!

Did you purchase the feet or make them? Thanks Bob
Thanks, I made the feet by laminating 4 pieces of 1x maple per foot, notching them with the band saw and tapering them a bit with a miter saw.
 
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Discussion Starter #368
Probably a dumb question but how do you set anything on top of that and not have it vibrate off?
Not a dumb question. The end-tables were built with enough bracing so vibrations are kept to a minimum. The only issue I have is the occasional scene with lots of content in the 80-90hz range that tends to rattle the little rings on our lamps that sit on the end tables. This usually only lasts for less than a second and I don't even really notice it anymore. We don't usually listen particularly loud so that keeps the vibrations down as well. I've done demo's though up to ~110db's with glasses of water on top and they would vibrate but not jump around at all.
 

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Probably a dumb question but how do you set anything on top of that and not have it vibrate off?
Yeah, these things are heavy (probably 120lbs) and with the bracing, there really isn't any noticeable vibration on the top surface until you get them pretty loud. But it is fun to see the drink cup ripple like in the Jurassic Park scene.
 

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This is some exceptional stuff, both the OP and the subsequent inspired projects.

I am looking to do a similar build --- given the room layout and other furniture I'm also stuck with having subs on either side of my couch, which we have pushed away from the back wall about 3 feet. Would it be better if I have the driver fire backwards or down? Or, is there a substantial benefit to having it fire forward? I realize this is more of a layout discussion than this specific build but I figure it might be good conversation for the thread and anyone that considers this project.

Edit: Or.....muwahahha, dual opposed coming out the sides of the table?
 

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Do you know how much volume the cubby drawer took up? I'd love to use your design but want to keep it as simple as possible.

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet K1 using Tapatalk
 

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Any chance you can re-post pics of the finished product? Looks like the links are dead

Putting the plug on the underside seems like an underrated aspect of this. If anything is spilled there is no chance of liquid running right onto the plug.
 

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This is some exceptional stuff, both the OP and the subsequent inspired projects.



I am looking to do a similar build --- given the room layout and other furniture I'm also stuck with having subs on either side of my couch, which we have pushed away from the back wall about 3 feet. Would it be better if I have the driver fire backwards or down? Or, is there a substantial benefit to having it fire forward? I realize this is more of a layout discussion than this specific build but I figure it might be good conversation for the thread and anyone that considers this project.



Edit: Or.....muwahahha, dual opposed coming out the sides of the table?
Ever build them?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
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