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Discussion Starter #1
So, got this great projector and now its time for the calibration to begin. Im hopping that some experts can shed light on getting this thing cablibrated right with their postings of their settings.


Im aware that all projectors are not exactly alike, but will still like to get some idea of their settings.


Thanks
 

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Without getting into specifics...they have been all over the board. It would be highly unlikely that one person's settings would work for another.


But, not saying you can't play around.
 

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I just bought Epson TW2000 (Pro 1080UB). Excellent projector!

One problem only - it so bright even in "Theater Black 2" mode. I'm thinking about ND2 filter. No way to manually control IRIS to adjust light output. Brightness paramer is not good solution - it cut off dynamic range because it acts via LCD matrix.
 

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Jason,

I set all parameters by default, Brightness/Contrast "0", Color temp 6500K, Gamma "2.2", Epson SuperWhite "Off", Lamp "Low".
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jason,


Seems that a post I placed yesterday got deleted....


Do you have any pics of the settings after calibration...thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malder1 /forum/post/12996796


Jason,

I set all parameters by default, Brightness/Contrast "0", Color temp 6500K, Gamma "2.2", Epson SuperWhite "Off", Lamp "Low".

Why?
 

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Well I do have pictures...and I will post them. BUT BUT BUT BUT BUT BUT....from my extensive testing on these units, they are all over the board. The results for this particular one may help your projector, or they may hurt your projector (at least in regards to the grayscale and colors-the standard settings should be about the the same). So, you are warned.








You can see on the CMS menu (#4) that the colors need major adjusting to bring into the HD709 standard.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk /forum/post/13040629


Well I do have pictures...and I will post them. BUT BUT BUT BUT BUT BUT....from my extensive testing on these units, they are all over the board. The results for this particular one may help your projector, or they may hurt your projector (at least in regards to the grayscale and colors-the standard settings should be about the the same). So, you are warned.


[..pictures removed..]


You can see on the CMS menu (#4) that the colors need major adjusting to bring into the HD709 standard.

Very interesting - if you reference my posting about my initial calibration attempts on the Home 1080UB http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post12987593


You will notice that my settings are different enough from Jason's to support the statement that all units are unique in this regard.


In retrospect (and something I will try when I get to tweaking again) I should have first started with the color saturation control etc, it would have likely helped reduced the amount of changes I had in the Advanced settings.


The most notable issue I see out of the box - is that skin tones tend to be overly red. I want to also experiment with the Skin Tone setting to see if simply adjusting this helps (and what effect that has on the grayscale/CIE)


Roo
 

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I received my 1080UB this week and am trying to perform an initial rought calibration using HCFR & an EyeOne LT colormeter.


I used to own an Epson TW700, and it seemed to work differently for calibrating, namely that you had to choose between calibrating perfect greyscale using RGB, or perfect colour balance with RGBCMY. When you adjusted RGB, it eliminated the RGBCMY settings you chose, and vice-versa.


My questions on the 1080UB are as follows:


1. Is there a dedicated 1080UB tweak thread? And if not, is this the best place to post calibration questions?


2. Does the 1080UB allow for perfect greyscale and gamma settings with RGB, AND allow you to dial in the colour balance with RGBCMY?


3. During RGBCMY adjustments, on the 1080UB there is an added adjustment for each colour called "Brightness". What is the best method for calibration? Is it to leave the Brightness setting at 0 and only use the hue and saturation adjustments? If so, then colour balance cannot be dialed in perfectly for each colour as with green, for example, I have saturation & brightness at -64 and it is still not quite at reference. Whereas cyan for example I hardly have to touch the brightness. Could someone explain how this works?


4. More of a PS3 interaction question: Why can't I get the PS3 to pass pluge (blacker than black) bars on the brightness test patterns? And most importantly, with it not passing pluge, does it affect the pq as compared to a device that can pass pluge?


Thanks.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeFigueiredo /forum/post/13450531


I received my 1080UB this week and am trying to perform an initial rought calibration using HCFR & an EyeOne LT colormeter.


I used to own an Epson TW700, and it seemed to work differently for calibrating, namely that you had to choose between calibrating perfect greyscale using RGB, or perfect colour balance with RGBCMY. When you adjusted RGB, it eliminated the RGBCMY settings you chose, and vice-versa.


My questions on the 1080UB are as follows:


1. Is there a dedicated 1080UB tweak thread? And if not, is this the best place to post calibration questions?


2. Does the 1080UB allow for perfect greyscale and gamma settings with RGB, AND allow you to dial in the colour balance with RGBCMY?


>>> Have you contacted Epson support on this (you'll probably need to speak with level 2 on this one).


3. During RGBCMY adjustments, on the 1080UB there is an added adjustment for each colour called "Brightness". What is the best method for calibration? Is it to leave the Brightness setting at 0 and only use the hue and saturation adjustments? If so, then colour balance cannot be dialed in perfectly for each colour as with green, for example, I have saturation & brightness at -64 and it is still not quite at reference. Whereas cyan for example I hardly have to touch the brightness. Could someone explain how this works?


>>> See 2 above.


4. More of a PS3 interaction question: Why can't I get the PS3 to pass pluge (blacker than black) bars on the brightness test patterns? And most importantly, with it not passing pluge, does it affect the pq as compared to a device that can pass pluge?


Thanks.

I've not found that their manual, like many, are designed for your level of calibration. I'd like to hear what they tell you. I've yet to find a CMS that really works correctly. Maybe this projector's will.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjschaff /forum/post/13451236


I've not found that their manual, like many, are designed for your level of calibration. I'd like to hear what they tell you. I've yet to find a CMS that really works correctly. Maybe this projector's will.

As mentioned, my last projector (Epson TW700) worked very well.
 

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Hello all..



Was in the mood to reset my colours now that the epson has 60 hours on the bulb..


To my surprise, I got different values from previous values, and picture is even better now..


Again, these values are taking my screen offset into account.. The Screen is a 1.1 gain, matt white.. 80" with Epson 1080UB Pro...



Here is the NEW VALUES:


Screen Offset:


- x=0.003

- y=0.004


- Y=-22.16%



HDMI Range: Normal


Colour Mode = HD (on UB pro model) or (Theater black 1 - on NON pro model I think...)

Brightness = 3

contrast = -1

Color = 7

tint = 3


Sharpness = Advanced, will all levels at FULL (all way to right)


Color Temp = 6000k

Skin Tone = 3

Brightness = High

Iris = OFF


ADVANCED AREA:


Gamma = 2.4


White Point (RGB)


Red Offset = -19

Green Offset = 0

Blue offset = -4


Red Gain = -11

Green gain = 0

blue Gain = -15



As you can see, the GAMMA changes from 2.1 to 2.4.. The brightness, contrast were different, and the Grey Scale is close, but a little different..


Hope this helps..


Now the wait for the next calibration
 

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Even though the 1080UB units differ by a good amount according to Jason and others, it seems as though the primaries are typically out in a similar manner, at least in the Theater Black Modes(home version). Green and Magenta need a lot of negative hue, and Green, Red, Cyan and Magenta are far out in saturation and need to be brought down.


Taking an average of Jason's numbers above, and Andrews numbers in the link should get you fairly close. The numbers would look like this:


R 8, -36, 0

G -52, -54, 0

B 5, 0, 0

C -2, -64, 0

M -14, -17, 0

Y 4, -8, 0



Epson 1080UB (courtesy of Andrew Low)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post12987593


This review seems to support this as well.

Epson Pro 1080 (I think this uses the same primaries phospors as the 1080UB)
http://www.hdtvexpert.com/pages_b/Epson_PL_Pro.html


Dan
 

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I think the best summary is that they will all vary. I suppose in theory one could average them, but that isn't to say that it will work on your unit.
 

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Jason,


Can you recall anytime that the R,G, or B primaries have been undersaturated on the 1080UB units according to the REC.709 gamut? Just curious. It seems from the gamut charts, and calibrations I've seen that most all of the primaries typically need to be either kept where they are, or desaturated some.(green especially, sometimes red)


Also, do you mind sharing what hardware and software you use for your gamut adjustments?


Thanks,

Dan
 

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The 3 most important calibration tips for this projector are:


1) The brightest presets (Dynamic and Living Room) severely limit the available gamut, so are impossible to achieve color accuracy.


2) Of the remaining presets, I believe that Natural is the brightest (Brightness is a problem for this unit because it only has a 170W bulb. Reviewers who noted its brightness were using Dynamic or Living Room modes and were unconcerned or unaware of their lack of color accuracy). In its calibrated state, you can expect 250-350 lumens.


3) In the Natural mode, the primary and secondary colors (especially RGCY) are all quite oversaturated and need to be reigned in by the included CMS, which works very well. However, you should NOT reduce the saturation of RGBCYM without ALSO raising their Brightness. Doing so will leave colors looking flat and dull and less accurate than in the unadjusted state. The addition of the Brightness control in the CMS along with the higher contrast LCD panels is what makes this projector such a remarkable improvement over its predecessor.


This projector is a joy to calibrate. If you know what you are doing and with the right instruments you can dial in a nearly perfect image. I can count on one hand the number of displays I would say that about. Unfortunately, because it is a relatively inexpensive unit, the reviews of it have not focused on its image adjustment capabilities, which are profound.


The only downsides are:


1) Inherent limitations to LCD technology, primarily low fill factor.

2) Relatively low brightness post calibration.

3) Unpredictable quality control issues having to do with panel alignment and white field uniformity.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan /forum/post/14526555


Jason,


Can you recall anytime that the R,G, or B primaries have been undersaturated on the 1080UB units according to the REC.709 gamut? Just curious. It seems from the gamut charts, and calibrations I've seen that most all of the primaries typically need to be either kept where they are, or desaturated some.(green especially, sometimes red)


Also, do you mind sharing what hardware and software you use for your gamut adjustments?


Thanks,

Dan

Nary 1 for R or G. But, B is often a bit under.
 

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Thanks Jason. That seems to correlate with what I've seen from reviews of the 1080UB.


Tom,


Excellent info, thanks. I've only used the 1080UB in Theater Black 1 mode, so I should be able to get the full gamut. I know what you're saying about some of the brighter modes, an extra green filter is removed from what I understand to boost the lumens, as well as having the lamp in the higher output mode.


Is there a rule of thumb for how much brightness you need to add relative to the amount you desaturate a primary color? Let's say foo instance you reduce red by 30 points in the CMS menu, how much do you need to boost the brightness?


I noticed exactly what you are talking about after I greatly reduced green and cyan saturation per other calibrtations that I've seen. The greens ended up as a dark grayish green. I'll try messing around some more tonight. Right now, I'm just playing around until I get some calibration hardware. (probably an i1pro, but not sure)


Dan
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan /forum/post/14529879


Is there a rule of thumb for how much brightness you need to add relative to the amount you desaturate a primary color? Let's say foo instance you reduce red by 30 points in the CMS menu, how much do you need to boost the brightness?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...98&postcount=1
 
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