Actually, the HK2288 is also an e-shifter and NOT native 4K. All DLPs except for the expensive models are 2716x1528 then shifted to 4K. I think the 0.47" models are only 1920x1080 then e-shifted.
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Epson 5050ub and Vivitek hk2288 CIH question
Hello..
I posted this in the projector forum too, but I have a more detailed question in regards to CIH.
I currently own an HK2288 and am projecting to a 16:9 screen. I ordered a new screen (DA-Lite UTB contour HD progressive 1.1) 148" 2.35:1 because I wanted to go cinemascope.
Ive come to realize that my current projector although it does 2.35:1, it still projects the black bars on the top and bottom. After reading here on AVS, I believe I've learned that I need to upgrade. My budget is $3000.
My question is since my HK2288 is native 4K and I upgrade to the most recommended projector under 3k with lens memory and 2.35:1 support, will I miss out on the sharpness since it isn't true 4k? Has anyone compared the two?
Will I be better off adding an anamorphic lens like the panamorph 480 to my current projector?
In regards to CIH, I'm using an nVidia shield. Will I be able to see the menus top and bottoms of the user interface prior to selecting and starting a movie?
I posted this in the projector forum too, but I have a more detailed question in regards to CIH.
I currently own an HK2288 and am projecting to a 16:9 screen. I ordered a new screen (DA-Lite UTB contour HD progressive 1.1) 148" 2.35:1 because I wanted to go cinemascope.
Ive come to realize that my current projector although it does 2.35:1, it still projects the black bars on the top and bottom. After reading here on AVS, I believe I've learned that I need to upgrade. My budget is $3000.
My question is since my HK2288 is native 4K and I upgrade to the most recommended projector under 3k with lens memory and 2.35:1 support, will I miss out on the sharpness since it isn't true 4k? Has anyone compared the two?
Will I be better off adding an anamorphic lens like the panamorph 480 to my current projector?
In regards to CIH, I'm using an nVidia shield. Will I be able to see the menus top and bottoms of the user interface prior to selecting and starting a movie?
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is going to be the case with every projector. There are no native 2.35:1 projectors. Home theater projectors will be either 16:9 (all 1080p and "Faux-K" models) or 17:9 (native 4K models). Constant Image Height is acheived either by zooming the image up to let the letterbox bars spill off the screen, or using an anamorphic lens add-on.Ive come to realize that my current projector although it does 2.35:1, it still projects the black bars on the top and bottom.
The Panamorph 480 is an older model only suitable for up to 1080p resolution content. It will not pass 4K detail.Will I be better off adding an anamorphic lens like the panamorph 480 to my current projector?
You should use the projector's zoom to center the 16:9 image in the middle of the screen, then zoom up when you're ready to start the movie.In regards to CIH, I'm using an nVidia shield. Will I be able to see the menus top and bottoms of the user interface prior to selecting and starting a movie?
Most DLPs have a 1.3x zoom range but yours has a 1.5x, which is enough for zooming CIH, but my guess is you will get tired of manually zooming before too long.
There is a third method no one hardly mentions, and that is scaling. You can set your projector where you want it for scope and then use an external scaling device or a HTPC setup to shrink the lesser content material to fit the CIH window.
The logic for me kind of follows as such. The best material you will be watching will likely be your scope content. When you watch that you will have a bright enough image and a pixel density you deem to be good and correct. Scaling the lesser content you will still have the same unit brightness and the same pixel density. If it is good for scope it should be good for flat or TV.
The fourth method and the one no one ever mentions and I believe I’m only one of a couple in the world using. Is to move the projector as a method of zooming. My projector is on a slide and the slide is inclined all DIY. When I move the projector the size of the image changes and at the same time the incline acts as a vertical image shift. That’s 2 of the 3 things needed to change when doing manual CIH. They are zoom, shift and focus. In my case with moving the projector the focus remains in focus during the move. That is not the case when using the projectors zoom adjustment.
I only mention this because you the OP seem new to all that presentation stuff. I don’t do strict CIH although I can with my setup. I do variable based around CIH as an idea and I also include things like IMAX and some other types of non-movie content that for me need to be taller than CIH would allow.
The logic for me kind of follows as such. The best material you will be watching will likely be your scope content. When you watch that you will have a bright enough image and a pixel density you deem to be good and correct. Scaling the lesser content you will still have the same unit brightness and the same pixel density. If it is good for scope it should be good for flat or TV.
The fourth method and the one no one ever mentions and I believe I’m only one of a couple in the world using. Is to move the projector as a method of zooming. My projector is on a slide and the slide is inclined all DIY. When I move the projector the size of the image changes and at the same time the incline acts as a vertical image shift. That’s 2 of the 3 things needed to change when doing manual CIH. They are zoom, shift and focus. In my case with moving the projector the focus remains in focus during the move. That is not the case when using the projectors zoom adjustment.
I only mention this because you the OP seem new to all that presentation stuff. I don’t do strict CIH although I can with my setup. I do variable based around CIH as an idea and I also include things like IMAX and some other types of non-movie content that for me need to be taller than CIH would allow.
I definitely agree. Add an anamorphic lens and you have the perfect setup. Even higher brightness and pixel density for all formats. If only anamorphic lenses were more reasonably priced.There is a third method no one hardly mentions, and that is scaling. You can set your projector where you want it for scope and then use an external scaling device or a HTPC setup to shrink the lesser content material to fit the CIH window.
The logic for me kind of follows as such. The best material you will be watching will likely be your scope content. When you watch that you will have a bright enough image and a pixel density you deem to be good and correct. Scaling the lesser content you will still have the same unit brightness and the same pixel density. If it is good for scope it should be good for flat or TV.
Yes cost seems to be the stumbling block and with 4k it gets a double hit as more cost and many feel at 4k the resolution is already better than required. That leaves brightness as the big positive and with HDR that a plus I’m told.I definitely agree. Add an anamorphic lens and you have the perfect setup. Even higher brightness and pixel density for all formats. If only anamorphic lenses were more reasonably priced.
Any recommendations for which one?I definitely agree. Add an anamorphic lens and you have the perfect setup. Even higher brightness and pixel density for all formats. If only anamorphic lenses were more reasonably priced.
Does it actually make the picture brighter?Yes cost seems to be the stumbling block and with 4k it gets a double hit as more cost and many feel at 4k the resolution is already better than required. That leaves brightness as the big positive and with HDR that a plus I’m told.
There is a third method no one hardly mentions, and that is scaling. You can set your projector where you want it for scope and then use an external scaling device or a HTPC setup to shrink the lesser content material to fit the CIH window.
The logic for me kind of follows as such. The best material you will be watching will likely be your scope content. When you watch that you will have a bright enough image and a pixel density you deem to be good and correct. Scaling the lesser content you will still have the same unit brightness and the same pixel density. If it is good for scope it should be good for flat or TV.
This seems interesting. How can I do this? An htpc with VLC or something?
Yes using the full panel with the A-lens will not have projected black bars putting all the light into the image.Does it actually make the picture brighter?
Yes it does, because you are using the full height of the imaging chip(s) on the projector for all aspect ratios at all times.Does it actually make the picture brighter?
For example:
at 2.40:1 in zoom mode, you are using 1920 x 812 pixels for a total of 1,559,040 pixels. That's roughly a 25% loss in pixels and light output.
at 2.40:1 with an anamorphic lens, you are using 1920 x 1080 pixels for a total of 2,073,600 pixels.
That's a roughly 25% gain in brightness over zoom, which combined with a roughly 5% light loss due to the lens (Isco) nets you roughly 20% more light on the screen for scope with a lens.
In addition, if you were to leave the lens in place and use a scaler for other aspect ratios, screen brightness (foot lamberts or nits) stays consistent for all aspect ratios. This means that white and black levels are also consistent regardless of the aspect ratio of the image. This, however cannot be said for installations using either zoom or a lens with a sled installations.
I have the Vivitek HK2288, 2.40 screen, UH480 Panamorph lens and my Oppo 203 does the scaling. It looks incredible IMO and the Panamorph 480 has no problem resolving 4K. My picture is tack sharp and the HK2288 does a fantastic job with HDR. My only issue is I have a bit of pincushion because my throw distance is a little too short. I wish I had a curved 2.40 screen to eliminate this. My Oppo 203 is also my preamp it has HDMI input and volume control. Too bad they don't make 4K Blu Ray players anymore.Hello..
I posted this in the projector forum too, but I have a more detailed question in regards to CIH.
I currently own an HK2288 and am projecting to a 16:9 screen. I ordered a new screen (DA-Lite UTB contour HD progressive 1.1) 148" 2.35:1 because I wanted to go cinemascope.
Ive come to realize that my current projector although it does 2.35:1, it still projects the black bars on the top and bottom. After reading here on AVS, I believe I've learned that I need to upgrade. My budget is $3000.
My question is since my HK2288 is native 4K and I upgrade to the most recommended projector under 3k with lens memory and 2.35:1 support, will I miss out on the sharpness since it isn't true 4k? Has anyone compared the two?
Will I be better off adding an anamorphic lens like the panamorph 480 to my current projector?
In regards to CIH, I'm using an nVidia shield. Will I be able to see the menus top and bottoms of the user interface prior to selecting and starting a movie?
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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