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Epson HD3800, what should I be feeding it?

1760 Views 21 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Stephen Hopkins, May 21, 2021

Fritz_The_Cat

Discussion Starter · May 18, 2021

Loving my new Epson HD3800 but sorta confused about what I should be feeding it. I know it up converts to 4K and that it has HDMI 2.0. My confusion began when I bought a DP to HDMI 2.0 cable. My HTPC is an Intel NUC with HDMI and mini DP output. When I use the cable it send a resolution / refresh that the projector struggles with. Depending on which OS I use it will either take a long time, up to 2 minutes before the image appears or I get no image at all, just noise. When I do get an image it's, I assume, 4K. For too small for me to read so I bump it back down to 1920 x 1089p. Using the HDMI 1 port on the NUC works perfectly. So my question is, what input will give me the best image possible? I have nothing at present that outputs HDMI 2.0 and given the ridiculous prices of video cards and not to mention I would have to replace the NUC with a standard computer, I'm hoping I don't have to go that route.

TIA

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

Mike Lang

· #2 · May 18, 2021

Most of us are sending our AVR output HDMI and all sources feed into the AVR.

DunMunro

· #3 · May 18, 2021 (Edited)

Fritz_The_Cat said:
Loving my new Epson HD3800 but sorta confused about what I should be feeding it. I know it up converts to 4K and that it has HDMI 2.0. My confusion began when I bought a DP to HDMI 2.0 cable. My HTPC is an Intel NUC with HDMI and mini DP output. When I use the cable it send a resolution / refresh that the projector struggles with. Depending on which OS I use it will either take a long time, up to 2 minutes before the image appears or I get no image at all, just noise. When I do get an image it's, I assume, 4K. For too small for me to read so I bump it back down to 1920 x 1089p. Using the HDMI 1 port on the NUC works perfectly. So my question is, what input will give me the best image possible? I have nothing at present that outputs HDMI 2.0 and given the ridiculous prices of video cards and not to mention I would have to replace the NUC with a standard computer, I'm hoping I don't have to go that route.

TIA

You need a better quality DP to HDMI cable. Typically Intel GPUs can output [email protected], and lower quality cables will struggle with this. The other thing is that the OS should change the default fonts to match the output and create a readable display.

How long is the DP to HDMI cable? Another alternative is to use a short but HQ DP to HDMI cable and attach it to something like this:

smile.amazon.com

Amazon.com: NEWCARE [email protected] 4x2 HDMI Audio Extractor Matrix Switch Splitter, with Optical Toslink SPDIF+Coaxial+3.5mm Audio Out+IR Remote, Supports HDCP2.2 HDMI2.0, Ultra HD, 3D, ARC, EDID, HDR for PS5 Xbox : Electronics

Amazon.com: NEWCARE [email protected] 4x2 HDMI Audio Extractor Matrix Switch Splitter, with Optical Toslink SPDIF+Coaxial+3.5mm Audio Out+IR Remote, Supports HDCP2.2 HDMI2.0, Ultra HD, 3D, ARC, EDID, HDR for PS5 Xbox : Electronics

smile.amazon.com

and then use a suitable high quality HDMI cable from there to the projector.

Fritz_The_Cat

Discussion Starter · #4 · May 18, 2021

So does the HDMI version not matter?

DunMunro

· #5 · May 18, 2021

Fritz_The_Cat said:
So does the HDMI version not matter?

No, unless your PC can output 4K HDR which is unlikely (but check the specs). HDMI 1.4 can do 4K/30hz SDR.

Reactions: 1

Soccerdude

· #6 · May 18, 2021

Kibbles that's what I feed my PJ

Fritz_The_Cat

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 18, 2021

Soccerdude said:
Kibbles that's what I feed my PJ

What do you do with the bits?

RayGuy

· #8 · May 18, 2021

Fritz_The_Cat said:
What do you do with the bits?

The receiver eats those on the way in ..

Trapani

· #9 · May 18, 2021

RayGuy said:
The receiver eats those on the way in ..

Yea its a downconversion process when using kibbles and bits thats why I switched to rachel ray.
Kibbles and bits since it's dry is limited to a lower bandwidth, hence the receiver bit swapping.

When you switch to rachel ray, the meaty bites are capable of full 4:4:4 chroma so it goes through the reciever's stomach more easily

Reactions: 1

RayGuy

· #10 · May 18, 2021

Trapani said:
Yea its a downconversion process when using kibbles and bits thats why I switched to rachel ray.
Kibbles and bits since it's dry is limited to a lower bandwidth, hence the receiver bit swapping.

When you switch to rachel ray, the meaty bites are capable of full 4:4:4 chroma so it goes through the reciever's stomach more easily

Rachael is definitely full bandwidth and full screen material!

rekbones

· #11 · May 19, 2021

Use a UHD BR player with UHD BRs if you want to see what the projector is really capable of. Unless you have uncompressed UHD BR rips on your PC with a good HDMI video card everything else is a down grade.

Fritz_The_Cat

Discussion Starter · #12 · May 19, 2021

rekbones said:
Use a UHD BR player with UHD BRs if you want to see what the projector is really capable of. Unless you have uncompressed UHD BR rips on your PC with a good HDMI video card everything else is a down grade.

Can you recommend a good UHD player?

DunMunro

· #13 · May 19, 2021

Fritz_The_Cat said:
Can you recommend a good UHD player?

The UB420 is probably the best value.

Reactions: 1

AV_Integrated

· #14 · May 19, 2021

All of the UHD Blu-ray players are decent. You certainly can drop a couple hundred on the Panasonic and be assured of solid quality overall.

What are you using your NUC PC to feed your system with? The lack of a proper HDMI 2.0 connection on the computer is something I would call a problem. But, just having a proper HDMI 2.0 (or better) connection is useless without actual 4K content. Streaming barely cuts it, but can be reasonably good. UHD Blu-ray is 'the best', but requires you to get UHD discs, etc.

Products like an AppleTV 4K, or a Roku Ultra can deliver 4K UHD content as well and are, overall, super cheap additions to your system.

CABLE QUALITY IS VERY IMPORTANT!

It has been mentioned, and I will just add to the statement, that any compatibility issues you are having between your PC output and the projector are most likely nested in having a so-so cable instead of a really high quality cable. High quality does not mean expensive. It just means that it can properly support the higher bandwidth that your computer needs of it.

1920x1080 60hz resolution is about 3.3 Gb/s
3840x2160 at 30hz runs close to 10Gb/s.
3840x2160 at 60hz/HDR hits 18Gb/s.

That's a LOT of data being sent, and any cabling issues can be a real nightmare. DisplayPort to HDMI adapters, no matter the variety, can be a real problem with displays. You may need to try different models to find one which is stable.

If you are just using a DP to HDMI adapter and then put an HDMI cable after it, then that cable needs to be rated for 10Gb/s HDMI data. The longer that HDMI cable, the more potential for image issues there is as well. I use a optical HDMI cable between my AV receiver and my projector. RUIPRO (on Amazon) is a great way to carry 4K UHD HDR content to your projector.

We are all going to assume you are using a proper AV receiver in this mix as well, because... home theater.

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Reactions: 1

Fritz_The_Cat

Discussion Starter · #15 · May 19, 2021

My present AV receiver is old as dirt. A replacement is on the horizon. I'm also researching them. At present I'm using a generic HDMI cable. guess I need to add a good one to the list. Never thought that getting a new projector would lead to a complete system upgrade.

I'm looking at the Panasonic DP-UB420-K on amazon and it says "Input Video Compatibility PAL" Lots of landmines to navigate around.

Trapani

· #16 · May 19, 2021

Fritz_The_Cat said:
My present AV receiver is old as dirt. A replacement is on the horizon. I'm also researching them. At present I'm using a generic HDMI cable. guess I need to add a good one to the list. Never thought that getting a new projector would lead to a complete system upgrade.

I'm looking at the Panasonic DP-UB420-K on amazon and it says "Input Video Compatibility PAL" Lots of landmines to navigate around.

My totally unwarranted current opinion on receivers:

If you like sound man those Marantz receivers are fire. I've been an Onkyo man for a long time but tried a Marantz 2 years back.
Screen is ugly AF but the sound quality gets closer to the warm tube amp style of sound, thats why you buy an expensive amp.

Onkyo has gone down in quality in newer progressive generations. Their newer receivers are lighter which is never a good sign

If you can line them up side by side, I'd try a Denon VS a Marantz in 2021.
Have them hooked up to the same speakers in a show room before you go pick one out

I will say this about the Marantz, they run hot.
I have to cool mine with a laptop cooler placed on top.
The switchgear for HDMI puts out a surprising amount of heat so make sure you ventilate your receiver

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Reactions: 1

Fritz_The_Cat

Discussion Starter · #17 · May 20, 2021

Nice to know that about Marantz, I was considering them. Thanks.
My current receiver is a Onkyo TX-SR605. Sound quality is fine but it's lacking on features and it has an unreliable volume control knob. I use the remote most of the time to change the volume. Denon is what I'll shoot for now.
I also have a Sony which is a piece of garbage. Won't buy Sony again.

Stephen Hopkins

· #18 · May 21, 2021

I'd probably go with a UHD player with dual HDMI outputs, Roku 4640 with optical output and DD+ to DD transcoding, and a 4K60 HDMI switch... this would allow you to keep your Onkyo, get lossless audio from BD and UHD discs, and DD5.1 from all current streaming services. HDMI splitters/extractors can get tricky when it comes to EDID for multiple devices with different resolution/color-space capabilities and the really good ones aren't cheap. If someone can vouch for a model that has all the required EDID capabilities and a built-in switch for a reasonable price, that might be an easier/cleaner solution (and open up your options for which streaming device you use), but I can't specifically vouch for a particular model that's not pricey.

DunMunro

· #19 · May 21, 2021

Stephen Hopkins said:
I'd probably go with a UHD player with dual HDMI outputs, Roku 4640 with optical output and DD+ to DD transcoding, and a 4K60 HDMI switch... this would allow you to keep your Onkyo, get lossless audio from BD and UHD discs, and DD5.1 from all current streaming services. HDMI splitters/extractors can get tricky when it comes to EDID for multiple devices with different resolution/color-space capabilities and the really good ones aren't cheap. If someone can vouch for a model that has all the required EDID capabilities and a built-in switch for a reasonable price, that might be an easier/cleaner solution (and open up your options for which streaming device you use), but I can't specifically vouch for a particular model that's not pricey.

As per post 3 my HDMI switch allows for full HDMI 2.0 bandwidth and has ARC output.

I currently have the following as inputs: Phillips BD player/Amp on HDMI1, UB420 on HDMI2, Digital TV box on HDMI3 and a Roku Premiere on HDMI4 (formerly a Sony UBP-X700). All these devices work flawlessly to provide 4K HDR (where possible) to my UHD50 (including 4K/24hz 12bit 4:4:4 ) and 1080P SDR to my HC1040 and I get 5.1 audio out via the coax out to my old Phillips HTS3051BV BD player/amp. I can't test the ARC output as my amp as no HDMI input.

Stephen Hopkins

· #20 · May 21, 2021

ARC output wouldn't work with the OP's AVR (it's HDMI 1.3a). Can it do HDMI 1.3a Audio Output via Output B instead of ARC? If so, that would be what the OP needs.

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