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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Per Panamorph's UH480 manual: "Horizontal lens/image shift other than fine adjustment is not recommended due to keystoning that can be introduced"

Not sure how much is "fine adjustment" but I'd guess a few inches relative to your screen size. I'd suggest you contact Panamorph for clarification for your intended setup.
Won't be doing this anyways. Stuck my hand in the hole there's another stud 10inches from the first one.
 

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Won't be doing this anyways. Stuck my hand in the hole there's another stud 10inches from the first one.
The hole should only need to be big enough for the light path to get through. Unless you can't mount it ion the other side of the wall for some reason. Although I think I would strongly consider the mirror arrangement that Bud suggested at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The hole should only need to be big enough for the light path to get through. Unless you can't mount it ion the other side of the wall for some reason. Although I think I would strongly consider the mirror arrangement that Bud suggested at this point.
Wouldn't the resolution suffer?
 

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Wouldn't the resolution suffer?
I have never read up on whether a mirror would or wouldn't degrade the resolution noticeably. I just made an assumption that since a couple people chimed in using this method with good results that any degradation would be negligible.

Keep in mind an a-lens will also impact the image. Better ones can make it so small you can't see it, but it's still there.

If you're worried and want to avoid both, can you shelf mount on the other side of the wall and shoot between the studs?
 

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Using a high quality first surface mirror will be have none of the typical distortion of the image that a lens imparts (pincushion & color separation). However, aside from polished first surface mirrors there is will be faint artifact called "draw lines" that can be visible in the image when the image pans in a bright uniform scene (e.g., downhill skiing) that shows up as very slight dark patches along one dimension of the mirror.

My current mirror (25" x 15") is not of the polished variety (~$1500) but a standard 4-6 wave flatness first surface mirror (~$300). I do intend to upgrade to the polished mirror eventually but not until I do more upgrades to my room first; the artifact is barely ever noticeable to me hence the lack of priority.
 

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I’m keeping my eyes open for a first surface mirror out of an old RP TV or something, but I have had good luck with regular old cheap second surface mirrors. The first one I used was a real thin dressing mirror I cut down to a 4:3 ratio. When I needed wider I bought a $20 mirror that had a flat frame I could use for my masking setup.

Part of the trick to using a mirror is to keep the angles as slight as possible and that mitigates the second reflection off the surface of the glass. The wave problem is only a problem if you are a person that lets such things drive you crazy. Yes you can see a slight amount on a pure white screen kind of a banding issue (very slight) but never can I see anything in a normal movie image.

I dust mine from time to time but it looks the same with some dust on it.

The pluses are getting at the input cables is easy. The spill light goes away from the screen. My favorite part of doing it this way is I have adjustable magnetic masking panels that attach to the mirror that do a good job of masking the black bars out, another nice feature is I can raise and lower the image a few inches with the mirror tilt adjuster.

Take a mirror and try it and to see what you think.
 

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and was wondering if you ended up getting the Epson ELPFALKED lens?
If so - did you have any issues fitting to your JVC?
How is the image quality on 4K?
Does it stretch horizontally so I can set the projector to squeeze the 2.35 image into the 16x9 field and have the lense stretch it to cover the 2.35 screen?
What's your overall opinion as I'm thinking of getting one for my JVC 520
 
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