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Here they are. Attempt at your own risk.
ACTIVATING CAL DAY AND CAL NIGHT MODES:

1. Turn the TV off and unplug the TV.
2. Unplug all HDMI cords from the TV.
3. Plug tv back in..
4. On the IR remote control, press Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power. It takes a few seconds and then the service menu will appear
5. Arrow down to SVC and press the Enter button in the center of the arrows
6. Arrow down to Expert and press Enter
7. Right arrow on N/D ADJ to ON !!! NOT "FIX" !!!
8. Then With the down arrow key, highlight the "Source" item and use the right or left arrow keys to get "ALL". Press Enter
9. Press Power
10. Wait a few seconds
11. Press Power
12. The Picture Mode will start in Dynamic
13. Change Picture Mode and reconnect hdmi cords
You're the MAN! It worked, now I want to know what all that other stuff is in that menu! Very interesting. Do you know this stuff or where I can find more detailed info about it?
 

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About a week ago I purchased a Samsung PN60F8500. I have done very little to calibrate or configure picture settings. However, I would like to achieve the best picture possible without having to pay the high fee it would require for a professional calibration. For the past hour, I have read many posts in this forum, but to be honest, my head is spinning trying absorb and make sense of it all. With all due respect to all of the very informed contributors to this forum, I do not have the time, nor the patience to read what is currently 78 pages worth of information. A lot of the information seems to be a matter of opinion. Over the past few days, thinking that I would just "wing it" on my own with the aid of some of the calibration disks that are out there, I have acquired Disney WOW, DVE HD Basics, and am on the verge of downloading HDMV-2d from a avshd709 FTP site. But this is only because I figured I might want/need all of these tools in the tool shed... I have no earthly idea how I am going to go about making sense of it all. I certainly don't want to do something wrong and break/brick my beautiful new TV. One of the posts I read discussed enabling the service menu (along with the steps to do so) so as to get to the cal night/cal day modes, but it came with a warning. I don't mind doing this, provided I have proper guidance and it results in getting the best calibration possible.

Having laid that foundation, would it be possible for someone to lay out the steps I must take, from A-Z, in a concise single post entry? Is this too complex a task to expect it to be spelled out this way? Nevertheless, I would greatly appreciate it. Just to provide a few environmental and usage details, the TV is wall mounted (bottom edge approx. 35 inches of the ground on a full-motion mount), in a room that is relatively low lit most of the time. It would never be described as a well-lit or bright room, by any means.

Thanks to all!
you're definitely making it more difficult than you need to. first off, without a meter, you are really only going to be able to adjust brightness, contrast, color, tint, sharpness, and turn off the unnecessary processing. MAYBE, you can eyeball a 2pt white balance based on skin tones, but even that's going to be mostly a wild stab in the dark.


so... let's begin


first, it doesn't really matter what you get, the test patterns will all work, and achieve the same things. I've been using the AVS stuff since it was free, so I'm going to refer to those specifically.


the first thing I like to do is set black level(brightness control). for this, you need to display the black clipping test pattern found in the 'basic settings' folder (the wow disc, dve will have similar patterns). for the avs one, you're presented with flashing bars from 0-25.

'black' is supposed to be at 16, so what you want is to adjust brightness until ONLY 17 and up flash.


second is to set white level, using contrast. this is a bit vague now a days, as chances are your display will never 'clip' white even with contrast set to 100. but, it's good to check anyway. you want to load up the white clipping test pattern(or similar from dve, wow). it will be another test pattern with flashing bars, but this time on the white scale.

you want to make sure the bars flash up to at LEAST 235. it's not a bad idea to go up to 245 or higher. once you've confirmed that(again, chances are you can not turn contrast high enough to make 235 not flash) you are going to use contrast to set the peak brightness of your display. with the f8500, contrast at 90 is good for dark room(at about 35ftl), 95 is very common, and good for mixed viewing(about 40-42ftl), and if you want max brightness 100 will get you just over 50ftl.


next is to adjust color and tint. again found in the basic settings folder, find Flashing Color Bars.

go into the menu on your f8500 and look for RGB mode, and set it to blue only. you want to adjust tint so that the flashing boxes in the middle 'disappear', and adjust color so that the flashing boxes on the outside 'disappear'. adjusting tint will affect color and vice versa so you may need to repeat. if you are finding you need to make a big change here though, something's probably not right. you shouldn't really 'need' to adjust color and tint, it's more to verify that it's accurate, and maybe tweak it slightly.


last test pattern, will be the Sharpness and Overscan.

to cut to the chase, turn your sharpness all the way down. some ppl will go as high as about 10, based on preference, but really 0 should be the standard place to start. you want to set sharpness at a level where the patterns displayed on screen(specifically the lines) remain parallel. when you turn up sharpness too high, the lines that are very close together start making weird patterns instead of looking like several parallel lines. this can be confusing as I don't really know how to describe it well. turn the contrast up above 50 and you will for sure see what I'm talking about. I'd bet money you can't turn the sharpness higher than 5 without starting to see this. so if in doubt, just put it at 0, and definitely no higher than 10.


now as for the other options you're presented with.
picture mode: movie
cell light: 20(you can turn this down to combat brightness as well)
Dynamic Contrast: off
Black tone: off
Flesh tone: 0
Color Space: auto
color tone: warm2(you may want to do warm1, as warm2 is very 'green' and will need some fixing)
gamma: 0(about 2.3) or +1(about 2.2) I believe 2.2 is recommended for most viewing, 2.4 is good only for dark room viewing.
digital clean view: off
MPEG noise filter: off
film mode:auto2(just left this, not sure)
MJC: off
BO: dark room(or auto if you will do some bright room viewing too)



and that's really all you can do without a meter or hiring a pro. it won't be perfect, but it's a good start and I'm sure you'll enjoy the picture.


if you want to try using some other ppl's white balance or 10pt control settings you may, but it's really nothing more than trial and error, and you're never really going to know if it's right or not. I had a couple of other ppl's settings plugged into mine, and thought they looked really good. so it's definitely possible to be happy with it. but when I got my meter I was shocked at how far off they actually were.


I would recommend not doing much else for now. there's no need to go into the service menu or anything like that. the benefit of enabling cal-day and cal-night is not to get a 'better' calibration(and you wouldn't unless you got a meter or pro anyway), but so that you can save two calibrations for the same input. one to use at night, and one to use during the day/bright room. you could achieve basically the same thing by doing one as 'movie' and one as 'standard', but I believe the standard mode is less accurate.


anyway, moral of the story is that those things are hidden for a reason. and unless you're a pro, or going to do what a pro would with a meter, there's nothing you can really do in there anyway. so don't worry about it. start with the basics, enjoy the picture you're going to get, and if you ever feel the need for more, reconsider hiring a pro calibrator to take it a step further.
 

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^Outstanding^
 

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You're the MAN! It worked, now I want to know what all that other stuff is in that menu! Very interesting. Do you know this stuff or where I can find more detailed info about it?
Slow down cowboy! It's great that you were able to get the CAL modes activated, but you really don't want to be poking around in the service menu. As it stands, no one has been able to find a service manual for this tv as of yet, so people mostly are using what they know from the service menu of previous models. Even when David from Avical came to calibrate my tv, the ONLY reason he went into the service menu was to activate the CAL modes and check usage hours. If the pros don't need to use the service menu for calibration, then it's probably better if us novices stick the user menus as well.

Of course the tv is yours to do with as you like, I just wanted to re-iterate my warning of the dangers of bricking your brand new tv.
 

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Slow down cowboy! It's great that you were able to get the CAL modes activated, but you really don't want to be poking around in the service menu. As it stands, no one has been able to find a service manual for this tv as of yet, so people mostly are using what they know from the service menu of previous models. Even when David from Avical came to calibrate my tv, the ONLY reason he went into the service menu was to activate the CAL modes and check usage hours. If the pros don't need to use the service menu for calibration, then it's probably better if us novices stick the user menus as well.

Of course the tv is yours to do with as you like, I just wanted to re-iterate my warning of the dangers of bricking your brand new tv.
On top of bricking the TV, it will not be covered by Samsung if the "damage" occurs while navigating through the SM. There have been countless stories of people going through the Service Menu and accidentally switching a setting ruining what was otherwise a perfect TV. It cant be said enough how careful one should be when entering and navigating the SM...
 

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Actually, I totally got that from when you first said it. So naturally when I first opened it up and hit a wrong button on accident and either turned on EDID (something like that) I FREAKED OUT! So I took a few minutes to google it and found out that it is an option that allows Apple computers to communicate automatically with the TV, I think allowing the 70GHz up from 60GHz normal. I have apple so I figured this was a good thing that probably was already on so I turned it on. It just said "SUCESS" no bricking… yet. But it would seem there could be some gems in there that we probably don't know about.

This Cowboy has holstered his guns on the service menu, for now. I will continue to dig until I find more, there has to be something out there. Obviously the CalDay and CalNight are a gem hidden in there, are there anymore? Don't know, yet.

The good thing about having multiple settings that I can calibrate is that I can watch them back to back to decide which is better. This Cal is so far by far the best, I have a feeling its very close to where it should be, check it out http://reviews.*******************.com/samsung-plasma-tv/samsung-f8500-picture-settings.html

It blew the other one I think from CalMan (it was a pdf online I can't find now) out of the water. The difference was amazing the quality of detail and colors.
 

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last test pattern, will be the Sharpness and Overscan.

to cut to the chase, turn your sharpness all the way down. some ppl will go as high as about 10, based on preference, but really 0 should be the standard place to start. you want to set sharpness at a level where the patterns displayed on screen(specifically the lines) remain parallel. when you turn up sharpness too high, the lines that are very close together start making weird patterns instead of looking like several parallel lines. this can be confusing as I don't really know how to describe it well. turn the contrast up above 50 and you will for sure see what I'm talking about. I'd bet money you can't turn the sharpness higher than 5 without starting to see this. so if in doubt, just put it at 0, and definitely no higher than 10.
These sharpness patterns I found never gave perfect results. Except the Spears and Munsil pattern. It displayed subtle wringing compared to the above.

http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio/technical-notes-on-the-patterns/
 

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These sharpness patterns I found never gave perfect results. Except the Spears and Munsil pattern. It displayed subtle wringing compared to the above.

http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio/technical-notes-on-the-patterns/
I just bought the spears and munsil bd, but never really used it. I thought it would be different, I found it kind of confusing as everything has a different name from what I'm used to.


anyway, just curious what you mean by this. are you saying the avs709 one never shows wringing, or always shows wringing, or ??.


i'll be honest, I've basically never really paid attention to sharpness with a pattern, I just turned it to 0. and then since I use my displays as my pc monitor, if I want to adjust the sharpness I turn the sharpness up to a point before the text starts to 'halo', and then back it down one.


but I'm interested about what you mean with the s&m disc vs the avs stuff. might give me a reason to actually set sharpness instead of just eye-balling it
 

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I've had the 60" F8500 for about a week and am a bit puzzled about where the HDMI Black level should be set. On my last plasma, I had always kept the HDMI black level setting at low. On this new tv, if HDMI black level is set to low, I lose all the detail in the blacks(or need to adjust brightness above 70 to see any detail in blacks). Has the definition of 'low' and 'normal' HDMI black level setting changed? Looking at the settings that others use, it seems to be inconsistent. I've seen settings that use both low and normal(many describe normal as being greyed-out, I've never seen normal greyed-out on my display). What is the correct setting for video content?

Also, I was using an old DVE disc I've used in the past to set brightness and some of the other basics(played through a PS3). I found that even after maxing out brightness, I still couldn't see the vertical below-black rectangle on the pluge pattern. Is there a setting that should be adjusted in the PS3 I'm using with the new tv? I was always able to see all three vertical bars in the pluge pattern on my old set.

It seems like something in my setup is "off".
 

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I've had the 60" F8500 for about a week and am a bit puzzled about where the HDMI Black level should be set. On my last plasma, I had always kept the HDMI black level setting at low. On this new tv, if HDMI black level is set to low, I lose all the detail in the blacks(or need to adjust brightness above 70 to see any detail in blacks). Has the definition of 'low' and 'normal' HDMI black level setting changed? Looking at the settings that others use, it seems to be inconsistent. I've seen settings that use both low and normal(many describe normal as being greyed-out, I've never seen normal greyed-out on my display). What is the correct setting for video content?

Also, I was using an old DVE disc I've used in the past to set brightness and some of the other basics(played through a PS3). I found that even after maxing out brightness, I still couldn't see the vertical below-black rectangle on the pluge pattern. Is there a setting that should be adjusted in the PS3 I'm using with the new tv? I was always able to see all three vertical bars in the pluge pattern on my old set.

It seems like something in my setup is "off".
The following was posted by member pieandchips and are the correct settings to use for your PS3:

PS3 Video Settings
Cinema Conversion - Auto - Default
BD/DVD Upscaler - Normal - Default
BD/DVD Video Output Format - Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr - For movies it is recommended as it prevents a video conversion stage to RGB and back again.
1080P 24 Hz Output - Your preference - works nicely with 96Hz Film Mode on some Blurays and not so nice on others

PS3 Display Settings
RGB Range - Full - This is for gaming (TV Nominal Range set to NORMAL). Bluray/DVD uses Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr
Super Whites - On - Sends blacker-than-black and whiter-than-white video signals to the F8500 which supports it. This is an important setting prior to calibration of the TV.
Deep Color Output - Off - There are no Deep color Blurays/DVD's - and few games. Not worth turning on.

Notes
Gaming only (not watching movies) is done in RGB Full. Gaming and disc movie watching are two separate entities regards to colorspace if you set your PS3 correctly.-
For movie watching all disc material, Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr with Superwhites on is the only thing you need to set on the PS3 - the TV's HDMI black level will be grayed out and be set correctly (when playing the disc).
Calibrate from here using a calibration disc in the PS3.
For gaming, set RGB to 0-255 Full on the PS3 and HDMI Normal on the TV to make 0 black and 255 white. Doing so you will have a larger gamut than 16 black to 235 white.
PS3 games are encoded in in the full range of 0-255.
Setting 16-235 Limited on the PS3 and Low on the TV creates the same black and white 'points' compared to 0-255 (flick them both over yourselves to compare and see) but you are loosing some gamut as you are squeezing in all the range into a smaller subset (16-235). You are also adding a compression conversion stage to the processing which the PS3 has to do. Essentially if you have the console set to output 16-235 video levels for gaming then the native range of the game is compressed so 0 becomes 16 and 255 becomes 235. Sure it works but I'd rather not force the conversion and I would rather see the whole gamut that the game was encoded in.
Either way, gaming Full/Normal or Limited/Low you'll be getting the same blacks and the same whites and will be okay to play.
 

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The following was posted by member pieandchips and are the correct settings to use for your PS3:

PS3 Video Settings
Cinema Conversion - Auto - Default
BD/DVD Upscaler - Normal - Default
BD/DVD Video Output Format - Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr - For movies it is recommended as it prevents a video conversion stage to RGB and back again.
1080P 24 Hz Output - Your preference - works nicely with 96Hz Film Mode on some Blurays and not so nice on others

PS3 Display Settings
RGB Range - Full - This is for gaming (TV Nominal Range set to NORMAL). Bluray/DVD uses Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr
Super Whites - On - Sends blacker-than-black and whiter-than-white video signals to the F8500 which supports it. This is an important setting prior to calibration of the TV.
Deep Color Output - Off - There are no Deep color Blurays/DVD's - and few games. Not worth turning on.

Notes
Gaming only (not watching movies) is done in RGB Full. Gaming and disc movie watching are two separate entities regards to colorspace if you set your PS3 correctly.-
For movie watching all disc material, Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr with Superwhites on is the only thing you need to set on the PS3 - the TV's HDMI black level will be grayed out and be set correctly (when playing the disc).
Calibrate from here using a calibration disc in the PS3.
For gaming, set RGB to 0-255 Full on the PS3 and HDMI Normal on the TV to make 0 black and 255 white. Doing so you will have a larger gamut than 16 black to 235 white.
PS3 games are encoded in in the full range of 0-255.
Setting 16-235 Limited on the PS3 and Low on the TV creates the same black and white 'points' compared to 0-255 (flick them both over yourselves to compare and see) but you are loosing some gamut as you are squeezing in all the range into a smaller subset (16-235). You are also adding a compression conversion stage to the processing which the PS3 has to do. Essentially if you have the console set to output 16-235 video levels for gaming then the native range of the game is compressed so 0 becomes 16 and 255 becomes 235. Sure it works but I'd rather not force the conversion and I would rather see the whole gamut that the game was encoded in.
Either way, gaming Full/Normal or Limited/Low you'll be getting the same blacks and the same whites and will be okay to play.
Thanks! I missed this when I reviewed the thread earlier today. I'll give those settings a shot and go from there.
 

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I just bought the spears and munsil bd, but never really used it. I thought it would be different, I found it kind of confusing as everything has a different name from what I'm used to.


anyway, just curious what you mean by this. are you saying the avs709 one never shows wringing, or always shows wringing, or ??.


i'll be honest, I've basically never really paid attention to sharpness with a pattern, I just turned it to 0. and then since I use my displays as my pc monitor, if I want to adjust the sharpness I turn the sharpness up to a point before the text starts to 'halo', and then back it down one.


but I'm interested about what you mean with the s&m disc vs the avs stuff. might give me a reason to actually set sharpness instead of just eye-balling it
What I was trying to describe, what appeared to be set correctly by the AVS sharpness pattern appeared perfect. However, it was not the case with Spears and Munsil. It was always one click or two too high with the AVS. It appeared perfect with AVS but it was the subtle wringing the AVS disc wouldn't pick up from my seating position.

Thats when the Spears disc displayed the subtle halo effect that wasn't showing on the AVS pattern.

You have to eyeball it.

The Spears pattern has finer sharpness lines.
 

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What I was trying to describe, what appeared to be set correctly by the AVS sharpness pattern appeared perfect. However, it was not the case with Spears and Munsil. It was always one click or two too high with the AVS. It appeared perfect with AVS but it was the subtle wringing the AVS disc wouldn't pick up from my seating position.

Thats when the Spears disc displayed the subtle halo effect that wasn't showing on the AVS pattern.

You have to eyeball it.

The Spears pattern has finer sharpness lines.
gotcha, makes sense. I usually just leave it at 0 anyway, but that's good to know for the future
 

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The more I think about it, I do not believe you will lose your settings. It's coming back to me now. If you RESET your tv, your settings will be lost. After each reset, you have to go back in and turn day/night mode on. This is not a reset. Sorry for the confusion. I will remove warning.
Thanks for posting this wxman. I did several searches and could not find it.


I tried this yesterday on my PN64F8500 that had 80 hours on it so far. It does indeed reset all your custom settings to the factory default. I had many custom settings for different inputs and for everything besides Dynamic and they were all reset. Might want to add that warning back, lol.


Since everything was reset I tried your calibrated setting for Movie mode and it looks great on my TV. Thanks for posting that as well. By far the best of the other default settings including Cal-Day and Cal-Night. I compared them all while watching an episode of Game of Thrones in a bright room this morning with the windows open. I also compared it last night in a dark room and it was still the best although the others were not comparably as bad in a dark room. For the Comcast cable signal I found I needed to put HDMI Black Level to Low or else the blacks are all washed out. For Blu-Ray it is Normal.


I bought this TV in early August and the software update feature installed firmware version 1200. Do you also have this latest version?
 

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Thanks for posting this wxman. I did several searches and could not find it.


I tried this yesterday on my PN64F8500 that had 80 hours on it so far. It does indeed reset all your custom settings to the factory default. I had many custom settings for different inputs and for everything besides Dynamic and they were all reset. Might want to add that warning back, lol.


Since everything was reset I tried your calibrated setting for Movie mode and it looks great on my TV. Thanks for posting that as well. By far the best of the other default settings including Cal-Day and Cal-Night. I compared them all while watching an episode of Game of Thrones in a bright room this morning with the windows open. I also compared it last night in a dark room and it was still the best although the others were not comparably as bad in a dark room. For the Comcast cable signal I found I needed to put HDMI Black Level to Low or else the blacks are all washed out. For Blu-Ray it is Normal.


I bought this TV in early August and the software update feature installed firmware version 1200. Do you also have this latest version?
Sorry you lost your settings. Uggg. I wish now I did not remove that warning. I have to set my black level to low also when using my ROKU box, but not for my DirecTV box. That's unusual that a cable box would require that. I will put a disclaimer back on my post. I hope other have not suffered your same fate!
 

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Does anyone use motion judder canceller for football or hockey? Or do you leave that off for sports?
I have tried it on and off for football and I prefer it off. Certainly a personal preference as some prefer it on for sports. The only time I use it is for 3D. I notice a definite improvement using it for 3D programming.
 

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Does anyone use motion judder canceller for football or hockey? Or do you leave that off for sports?
I can't stand it. it's way too aggressive. I have a Samsung lcd, and it's got controls from 1 to 10 and I like the way it works at settings of 1-2, sometimes as high as 3, but the f8500's it's just off, medium, high, and the medium setting(standard I think?) is far too noticeable for me.
 

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Sorry you lost your settings. Uggg. I wish now I did not remove that warning. I have to set my black level to low also when using my ROKU box, but not for my DirecTV box. That's unusual that a cable box would require that. I will put a disclaimer back on my post. I hope other have not suffered your same fate!
I was under the impression that setting HDMI black level to low was only for RGB signals otherwise you are seriously crushing blacks. Can anyone else chime in?
 
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