AVS Forum banner

121 - 140 of 1010 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
Subfloor install

So as noted I had an issue with the subfloor being different dimensions from the previous stock that I bought about 1 year ago

Here you see the length by width difference ~1/4"


Here the thickness difference ~1/8"


After going over the issue and brain storming ideas with my Aunt (fellow woodworker with more tools than me), It was agreed that moving some of the existing "old stock" floor so that I had one continuous run (32ft) would avoid the issue with the length and width dimension issue. For the height issue shimming with 1/8 stock would work as the tongue relief on the new stock was the same as the grove on the "old" stock. Glad I called her to talk me off the ledge

Here is the first new piece going in and the shim, I use 4" wide 1/8" thick cabinet backer board that I had laying around. Under the shim I put a 5-6" stip of poly


Here is the close up side shot. As you can see it lined up really good. When walking on it there is no noticeable give. Ya that's a bad ding in the grove..... I cleaned up before the next piece went in


And here is 100 tiles installed ~400sqft.... to the left of the lighter colored "old" subfloor"


I have to say that this flooring system is really easy to install and feels a lot better that walking on concrete. I will need about 60 more pieces to finish up the floor, but no rush at the moment.

Glad the dimension thing didn't totally mess me up but it did cause a minor panic attack at the moment of realization.

On to columns........ As you may have noticed above I did a mock up of the center column. This one houses a side surround and possibly a sub in the future
Outside framed dimensions are 13" x 20" and I have tried to position the 2x4's to maximize the amount I could move toward the screen and internal space
I did a mock up so that I could go over the size of the column with my wife...... Also the cardboard box in the column is a mock up of a Volt 8 for sizing also. Although I think I am going to buy Volt 6's
The three gang electrical box won't be in this column but I wanted to check it for space and clearances......looks good





So I guess this brings us back to the rear surrounds and where to put them. Below are a couple more picture to help put the space .... hopefully in perspective
The couch is place is the anticipated distance from the screen ~150"
I am concerned that I will not be able to fit a Volt 6 into the back column as it is 13" x 13" rough in framing with electrical and a pole and that going with high rears would sound "off" and be problematic for future immersive upgrade

Any suggestions very welcome... hoping to work on the final column this week

From the back of the room


From the screen wall facing back


The columns



Thanks
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #122
Speaker build.... ok not really yet

So in the attempt to see how much space I would need in the rear column for Volt 6's I mocked up on using cardboard
I was surprised how much smaller it is compared to the Volt 8, looking at dimensions online just didn't give me the sense of how much smaller



What I found was that there was no way the Volt 6's where going to fit in my 13x13" outside framed column
Given I had the center column built with the 13 x 20" dimensions, I talked to my wife and showed her the impact the going to 15" would have..... and got the green light to proceed with 15x15" for outside columns and 15x20 for the middle one.

Here is the 15x15" with a Volt 6 inside..... not bad for room and I can turn it if needed..... but will have to watch for how close the 12oV will be.






By doing this I now know that the Volt 6 will work at this location if that is what is recommended by you pros.....
So I think at the moment there are two options:
  1. Lower Height, one in column and one in "nichey corner"
  2. High in soffit corners
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
That mock up is nice as a visual for size comparison. I wouldn't have thought the difference would be that large either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #125
That mock up is nice as a visual for size comparison. I wouldn't have thought the difference would be that large either.
Ya I was surprised and the specs for the speakers (V-6 vs V-8) are very similar
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #127
Well after a much needed vacation and the distractions of also working on the front porch, I was able to get back in the basement on a couple rainy days.
Managed to rough in the last column (closest to the screen) and hang some starter sections of the soffits going around the theater area.
I wanted to only put up sections of soffit to get a "feel" for the space. After a lot of just standing there and staring at it, we decided to move the rear soffit about 20" toward the screen, it just "felt" better and less cramped by the entrance.
Also noticed that the left soffit looked off balance from the right, measurement wise its on the mark...... not sure is its an optical illusion, due to the stack of drywall on left, due to no hvac on left or the open area to the right.... at any rate I am running with the measurements and hoping for the best.


Here you can see the partial soffits and last column



Also got started on the screen wall..... a lot of head scratching and measuring given I changed the size slightly on the fly and the way I am constructing the screen wall...
Decided to increase marginally to 60x107 ~122" 16:9..... I was looking 120" originally but hey any inch I can squeeze :D To my surprise I got no resistance when my wife looked at the "mockup", I guess all the not so subtle remarks over the last couple of years worked.
Faced a decision on where to end the false wall on the right and came to the conclusion that in the center of the column line made the most sense. This will result in about 6" more wall on the right of the screen than the left and might look off balance....... problem is there is a clean out right were the wall would end to be balanced and I can not cover it up and the cost to move is not worth it.
In the end the screen will remain in the center of the soffits and I felt that was more important visually.


It hard to see in the picture but this is my attempt to TUCK TAP out the screen space (blue line painted on). The upper most horizontal is the bottom of the soffit.
Picture is from MLP and attempting to capture what I see with peripheral view



Not supper productive build wise, lots of standing a staring. Got a few things decided........ just got to execute them now
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #128
Busy weekend..... finished front stairs to house, picked up all the aluminum railing for the porch and working on basement framing
Got 90% of the framing done, just two - three columns, bit on screen wall and blocking left.
Columns to be done later as I have a stack of drywall in the way. I say 2-3 as I am not sure about having one to match the smaller one closer to the screen on the right.... we'll see
Screen wall bit, I have to wrap my head around how I want to tie the rock on the wall into the drop ceiling..... leaning toward dry walling down a little so the rock comes up to drywall and then drop ceiling j mould comes out from drywall, rather that trying to have j mould and rock meeting

Framing went pretty good even with lifting 9ft of soffit up by myself.... thank goodness for clamps

Looking toward the screen from the back of the space



Looking to the back from screen wall



Right end wall for screen, had to get a little creative on the bracing for the drywall as the pipe did not allow enough space for a 2x4. Ended up using some scraps of 1x4 on there sides with about 1 1/2" sticking out for the drywall to screw to.




Plumbing the soffits is not a fun task, the ends are ok as there is something to screw to but in the middle can be a real hassle!!!!!

Next up either rip out rack and install the new one I got or electrical

Had to laugh as my 5yr old daughter has a small 6ft tape measure and she was walking around measuring all sorts of stuff and righting it down, at one point she measured the column and called out 15, I was pretty proud that she got it right. I guess she wants to document progress also
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
When to Buy? Random thought of the day

As things slowly progress I got to thinking.....

When should a person buy there equipment?

Unfortunately or maybe fortunately (depending on how you look at it) I basically need everything..... all my current equipment is very old
Only equipment that is set in stone at the moment is PS3 and 2 satellite boxes
AVR doesn't do 7.1 or even have HDMI
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,819 Posts
Well, you buy your stuff when you are ready to use it.....or find a good deal. But what time of year? Not right now :) We are coming up on the fall release times where you will see companies releasing their latest PJ's and receiver units, blu ray players, streaming devices, etc. Through Sept-Oct most everyone will have their newest and best out on the market. Some take a little longer than others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #131
Well, you buy your stuff when you are ready to use it.....or find a good deal. But what time of year? Not right now :) We are coming up on the fall release times where you will see companies releasing their latest PJ's and receiver units, blu ray players, streaming devices, etc. Through Sept-Oct most everyone will have their newest and best out on the market. Some take a little longer than others.

Good tip on the fall releases, no I am certainly not ready right now but itchen to fire something up.... I have been checking periodically for the Mackies on sale, best I've seen is $199 USD with free shipping to Canada.
Haven't even thought about subs, AVR, etc.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #132
Speaker Wire Estimation

So, I am a little surprised at the length of speaker wire that I need.... FYI I did measure by rounding up as I went and added ~ 5% to the total.
Now the distance from the rack to the screen is 32 ft as the crow flies but quickly turns into 76 when you jig and jog around.


So the grand total came in at 750 ft...... ouch that's going to be pricey with it being 12awg


That is based on a 7.4 system with 2 subs behind screen and 1 in each side surround column.


The LCR and surrounds is what it is but am I going overboard with the sub wires ???????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
Pony up big boy:

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/in-wall-speaker-wire/1618

14 awg should be fine for most everything. Go 12awg for the subs if it makes you feel better :) Just make sure you use the cl2 rated stuff to stay in code (or perhaps not in Canada).

It just surprised me on the total length
Decided to go 12awg as the lengths to the screen wall are around 76ft, the voltage drop charts recommend the 12awg..... then I figured why not just get all of it in 12awg
Ya we have code for cl2 here in the North country..... actually they are probably more strict that down south. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #135 (Edited)
NEW.... to me RACK

Busy weekend, between the basement and the front porch I was pretty wore out Sunday night.

Did some electrical rough in for six zones of lighting that I am planning for the whole area.... three of the zones are in the theater area, two lights over the chairs, each to be on its own switch (zone) and two general area light toward the screen as another zone. Installed the 2 three gang boxes in the far column, all switches are in here except the other end of a three way switch that feed the lights as you first come into the space. In our last place we had the lights over the chairs, it was nice to turn on for the general fumbling around trying to find something. I also plan on led in crown molding and didn't count that as a zone in my rough in electrical..... debating on running the low voltage back to the rack room and having all the control / ballasts there...... not sure if that's a good idea though?
Didn't take any pictures as rough in electrical is pretty boring stuff, hope to put together a plan for the lighting soon

Hope its enough lighting in the theater area....

The fun part of the weekend was the new to me rack. I installed some 3/4" plywood on the inside of the room so that I could mount almost anything where ever I wanted and painted it all white. I took the rack over to a co-workers and he used his "gas axe" to take 2" of the front 6"x6" angle iron base. This allowed me to slide it closer to the wall surface. The 4" that remained is now where the bottom plate of the wall was.... love the reciprocating saw..... not a finesse tool but great for that job. I had to shim it more that I thought I would have to in the one corner to get it nice and plumb. Used 4 1" lag bolt to screw it into the subfloor, as it is only OSB I wanted to add some additional rigidity to the rack by installing a 2x4 across the top of the rack and screwed through the rack into the 2x4........ man she is solid now, no concerns about it moving. Centering it in the hole that I had was tricky as it doesn't move very nice...... a lot of ok move it a 1/8... bang.... damb to far.... rinse repeat...... but I finally got it. I was a little sad taking out the work that I had already done making my DIY rack but that went away quick when I put the one 2U shelf and cable management on........ I stood back and just smiled....... went up stairs gave my wife a big hug and said thanks for telling me about the free rack. :D

Front of the rack, the space that I have with my existing hole is about 32U



Back base of the rack... tough to get a full picture



Back top of the rack, when roughing in I also drilled the holes for the wires that are going to be coming in.... 4 x 2" holes..... lined two of them up with the wire management chase.


Been looking a picture is the "show me your rack" thread trying to get ideas on how to arrange the equipment in the rack... I really just want to put the shelves in once as they are tricky to do by myself.
An suggestions are welcome
At the moment the following are items that I know and are guessing at and possible top to bottom configuration

Patch panel (2U)..... above 32U available
Network Switch (1U)..... above 32U available
Satellite box (3U)
Satellite box (3U)
AVR - which one.... I have no idea (4U)
PS3 (4U)
HDMI matrix switch - TBD (1U)
Drawer - If I have space (4U)
Amp - Will I need one.... probable for 2-4 subs (2U)
UPS - not sure it this will be in rack or not
NAS - Lenovo 2 bay.... some where in this room
Future Insteon ISY

I am sure I am missing something..... thoughts?

Also wondering is anyone has or has seen any diagrams of peoples systems showing how they have everything connected together? Basic diagram (e.g. satellite box ----> HDMI switch ---> AVR ---> amp----> speakers.....etc)
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,819 Posts
I like the stuff with trays and knobs at chest level while standing. Amps and heavy stuff on the bottom. My rack (6' tall middle atlantic) from top to bottom is:

Directv box
APC UPS (2RU)
xbox one
Oppo 103
Marantz 7702
Crest prolite 7.5
Peavey ipr2 7500
Minidsp
Outlaw atmos amp
Dsonic main 7 channel amp
Sherbourne zone 2 (outdoor amp)
storage bin in the very bottom (4RU)

I've found this alignment to be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #137
I like the stuff with trays and knobs at chest level while standing. Amps and heavy stuff on the bottom. My rack (6' tall middle atlantic) from top to bottom is:

Directv box
APC UPS (2RU)
xbox one
Oppo 103
Marantz 7702
Crest prolite 7.5
Peavey ipr2 7500
Minidsp
Outlaw atmos amp
Dsonic main 7 channel amp
Sherbourne zone 2 (outdoor amp)
storage bin in the very bottom (4RU)

I've found this alignment to be great.
Thanks, I like the idea of trays and knobs at chest height..... was also thinking things that don't really need to be played with either really high or low.
Do you happen to have a diagram of how everything you have is connected up? Example if you have multiple subs how are you getting signal to the amp(s)
I am a total NOOB on amps, never had one .... not even sure there benefit over just an AVR :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,865 Posts
I've got a shorty rack so I can't comment - all of it is below my waist - but ideally you'd put your hottest things towards the top so as your heat rises it doesn't saturate everything to the same temp as your hottest item if it sits on the bottom. Hottest thing may be your AVR... Especially if it's a higher class flagship unit or an Onkyo. :) (can't only say Onkyo because my X4520 and now X7200wa Denon also run hot --- but why the heck is the prepro Onkyo 5508 so hot -- it doesn't even have internal amps????? Onkyo just runs hot for the fun of it apparently. My fomer Onkyo 1007 would almost burn your hand after a movie, and there was nothing on top of - it was sitting on top of the rack in free air.


At any rate - you don't want that kind of heat soaking up through your gear if you can avoid it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
Discussion Starter #139
Hottest thing may be your AVR... Especially if it's a higher class flagship unit or an Onkyo. :) (can't only say Onkyo because my X4520 and now X7200wa Denon also run hot --- but why the heck is the prepro Onkyo 5508 so hot -- it doesn't even have internal amps????? Onkyo just runs hot for the fun of it apparently. My fomer Onkyo 1007 would almost burn your hand after a movie, and there was nothing on top of - it was sitting on top of the rack in free air.
At any rate - you don't want that kind of heat soaking up through your gear if you can avoid it.

Interesting.... I would have assumed that an amp would produce the most heat...... how are they for heat generation?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,819 Posts
Thanks, I like the idea of trays and knobs at chest height..... was also thinking things that don't really need to be played with either really high or low.
Do you happen to have a diagram of how everything you have is connected up? Example if you have multiple subs how are you getting signal to the amp(s)
I am a total NOOB on amps, never had one .... not even sure there benefit over just an AVR :eek:
No diagrams really, and a pic of the rat's nest (back of the rack) isn't really going to help either as it's a bit of a mess. Not like some people's I have seen, but not clean like Auburn's setup... I need to do a spring cleaning back there sometime in the near future, that's for sure.

My marantz has XLR out with two sub outs so I have both sub outs going to my miniDSP open DRC-AN for EQ. From there, sub "1" leaves the mini and I have Y-splitter to carry the signal to two different amp channels. sub "2" leaves and goes straight to its only sub channel on a different amp. Once you get further along, and have the equipment in hand, it gets much easier to visualize :D Keeping the amps close to the AVR makes it easier to run the interconnects. and keeps the lines shorter.

I've got a shorty rack so I can't comment - all of it is below my waist - but ideally you'd put your hottest things towards the top so as your heat rises it doesn't saturate everything to the same temp as your hottest item if it sits on the bottom. Hottest thing may be your AVR... Especially if it's a higher class flagship unit or an Onkyo. :) (can't only say Onkyo because my X4520 and now X7200wa Denon also run hot --- but why the heck is the prepro Onkyo 5508 so hot -- it doesn't even have internal amps????? Onkyo just runs hot for the fun of it apparently. My fomer Onkyo 1007 would almost burn your hand after a movie, and there was nothing on top of - it was sitting on top of the rack in free air.


At any rate - you don't want that kind of heat soaking up through your gear if you can avoid it.
Agreed on this. My old 8801 (Pre) was hotter than the 7702 (pre) gets. I have always kept a 4RU space above my AVR/Pre to allow for proper ventilation. I know others who have bought the little USB fans they have connected to the back of their AVR to pull the heat from inside the unit and expel it, or have the fans tossing a crossbreeze over the top of their units. Either way likely helps.
 
121 - 140 of 1010 Posts
Top