Thanks for the explanation.... I didn't realize you could use a splitter.... makes sense as it is pre ampNo diagrams really, and a pic of the rat's nest (back of the rack) isn't really going to help either as it's a bit of a mess. Not like some people's I have seen, but not clean like Auburn's setup... I need to do a spring cleaning back there sometime in the near future, that's for sure.
My marantz has XLR out with two sub outs so I have both sub outs going to my miniDSP open DRC-AN for EQ. From there, sub "1" leaves the mini and I have Y-splitter to carry the signal to two different amp channels. sub "2" leaves and goes straight to its only sub channel on a different amp. Once you get further along, and have the equipment in hand, it gets much easier to visualize Keeping the amps close to the AVR makes it easier to run the interconnects. and keeps the lines shorter.
Agreed on this. My old 8801 (Pre) was hotter than the 7702 (pre) gets. I have always kept a 4RU space above my AVR/Pre to allow for proper ventilation. I know others who have bought the little USB fans they have connected to the back of their AVR to pull the heat from inside the unit and expel it, or have the fans tossing a crossbreeze over the top of their units. Either way likely helps.
ThanksBig ole class A/B amps will produce a TON of heat. the more efficient class D/H/whatever class don't produce near as much.
Yea those are two good reasons I went the PRE route as I like to give my speakers substantially more power, while no receivers I am aware of can you run all surrounds channels as well as atmos without some sort of outboard amp. The rest of your design and listening levels will dictate what you need honestly.Thanks Beast, I was thinking Onkyo or Denon.... I guess I assumed Marantz would be out f my price range but in looking at them, I guessed wrong.
So, I see the 7702 is a preamp unit...... what decides if a person needs a "typical" AVR vs a pre amp unit?
I am guessing the following:
- Power of AVR is less that what is needed to drive speakers
- Number of speakers exceeds the AVR connections (e.g. running >2 subs)
why does it need to be local?That's been my plan but having a tough time finding a local supplier
Never heard of cablesonsale, thankswhy does it need to be local?
double check monoprice, but with the conversion right now, these guys tend to be a bit cheaper when all is said and done : http://www.cablesonsale.ca/index.php/audio-cables/monoprice-cl2-rated-in-wall-speaker-wire.html?gauge=21
This is one of the problems.... I don't know yet...... Looks like I might be forced to 8ohm...... but I hate pigeon holing my self and taking away options. How about you pick one for meyeah 12 gauge should shore up any concerns for most distances --- but a 75 foot run is pretty darn long --- what impedance is your subwoofer setup going to be using?.
Ya I read that whole thread this afternoon.... lot to take in. Some interesting point about peak / sustained and normal.This should put your mind at ease somewhat. The Crown XLS-5000 is noted to be a beast of an amp and actually put forth a great deal more power than forum favorites like the Behringer EP4000. Even the Crown manual says you should be fine with 16 gauge wire up to 25foot. For 75' it should be 10 gauge minimum according to Crown.
2.5 Choose Output Wire and Connectors
Crown recommends using pre-built or professionally
wired, high-quality, two-conductor, heavy gauge
speaker wire and connectors. You may use 2-pole or 4-
pole Speakon® connectors (Figure 2.5 ), banana plugs,
or bare wire for your output connectors (Figure 2.6). To
prevent the possibility of short-circuits, wrap or otherwise
insulate exposed loudspeaker cable connectors.
Using the guidelines below, select the appropriate size
of wire based on the distance from amplifier to speaker.
CAUTION: Never use shielded cable for output
Distance Wire Size
up to 25 ft. 16 AWG
25-40 ft. 14 AWG
41-60 ft. 12 AWG
61-100 ft. 10 AWG
101-150 ft. 8 AWG
151-250 ft. 6 AWG
There is more knowledge in that thread than I can impart..
ThanksFWIW - I actually used 12 gauge for my subwoofer runs just to be safe but none of my runs are over about 25 foot..
Cool that what I was reading..... you can say I told you so @beastaudio14 gauge is fine (read overkill) for your 8 ohm mains.
Ya I am looking into the cost that I would have to add to double 14awg vs just pay the USD for some 12awgAlso ------ don't forget you can double up your speaker wire and it effectively is the same as 3 gauges larger. So doubling up two strands of 14 gauge speaker wire becomes 11 gauge - if that's a cheaper route for you. (four runs of 14gauge wire would be the equivalent of 8 gauge).
Man, 75 foot is a LONG distance, You should consider running your subs at 8ohm instead of 4ohm or 2ohm if you have the ability to ease the cable concern.
Ya been thinking about this also.......You might want to use the 4 leads and wire them together.
You can buy 4 lead speaker wire pretty easy.