If you mean a Sony VPH1041, I think you can just unplug the fans and it will be fine. There is no fan sense circuit that will shut the unit down if they are disconnected, and if the unit is just being used in your home in a normal environment, it doesn't get thnat hot anyway.
I have a 1031Q and I blew up the fan power bord a while ago, needless to say I wired the fans directly to the boards power supply so I got them running again but I did have the PJ running for about an hour with the fans not running and all is and was fine. I just dont know that I would leave these not running. If the fan in the 1040 is not for cooling the tubes and is not in any close realationship to a heatsink then it might be feasable not to have it running. What abut lowering the voltage to atleast keep some airflow but to slow the fan a bit and quiet it down if it so so noisy? Maby insert a resistor on the fan +?
The 1031Q has two fans that exhaust heat from the tube cavity, They are pretty quiet and theres two fans. Does the 104X make that much noise?
I'm not really sure if the tubes need the cooling from the fans but so far ( I've had it for a couple of months ) the air that blows out have been cool. I have been sitting directly below it and it's been an arctic experience. Normally it runs for 2-4 h and at room temperature.
About the noise, it's not a big problem but I think silent is better.
I think I will try with one fan off and keep an eye on it.
The problem with just reducing the voltage to the fans is that they won't always reliably start up with initial power on. That's why I came up with a little circuit for the VPH12XX units to supply full power at start up, then throttle back to low speed. It's always been my contention that these are industrial units designed to work in hostile environments that aren't present in a home theater, so it needs less cooling. But I don't think a 1041 gets very hot anyway, so I think it would be OK to just unplug them.
I have opened up the PJ and had a look at the fan. I will have to take the PJ down from my ceiling mount to be able to remove the cabinet. So I will have to get some help to lower i t down ( although it's a small one ).
I think I will have to raise the d-board to be able to access the power connection for the fan. I hope it will be easy to disconnect since i don't want to cut the cables. Or can I just pull the cables out of the fan? ( I'm new at this so don't laugh to much...)
I think there is a second fan on the opposite side and it will be a bit trickier to get to. But it would be great to have a silent PJ.
The fans are most likely the same fans in the 1031Q. They have a 2 conductor plug that plugs into a little PC board. You should be able to pull the plug pretty easy, if you can find it deep in that thing.
If I am not mistaken the 1041q will power up and then shut back off if the fans are seized when first the unit is first turned on. Not sure if it cares about the fans being disconnected or not though. Ill have to double check tonight.
In general component life is proportional to heat. The more heat, the less life. As such, I personally wouldnt stop any fan. It stands to reason that slowing the fans allow more heat as well- and thus could potentially shorten the overall life. But is it enough to make a notable difference ? Who knows...
I also have to wonder what happens to the sealed liquid chamber in the tubes as the pressure goes up from heat- I suppose any flaws could result in leakage or worse?
I realize it doesn't get _that_ hot. I was thinking of a bit more extreme heat than just a fan stopping.
I confirmed that stopping or unplugging either fan on the 1041Q will shut the projector down. There are two fans- One in the front near the tubes/power input, which blows directly across a heat sink, and a second which is near the focus module on the bottom (bottom being with the cover removed, projector mounted on ceiling.) Being more cautious then probably required, I'm not sure I would stop the fan blowing across the heat sink as this heat sink appears to be the hottest part in my projector. But on the flip side, it probably doesn't matter --- at 300 to 500 bucks in good condition these 10xx projectors are almost disposable if something does go wrong.
Just an idea- I have not tried the following, but suspect:
1) To outright eliminate both fans -one could measure the frequency of the tach wire on the fan. Cut wires to the fan. Use the Black/Red wires of the fan to power a 555 timer, and set up the 555 timer to generate the aprox frequency of the tach, sending the generated tach signal back to the projector. This should fool the PJ and keep it going. Done carefully, one could make a board smaller than the fan to mount in its place. I don't foresee any reason the tach wires from both fans couldn't be joined, so you would probably only need to do one 555 timer setup. In a worst case the tach wires may need to be diode isolated...
2) If one were to eliminate only one fan, and if those tach wires can be joined, you could simply unplug the desired fan and jump its tach wire to the fan still connected. Half the fans, probably half the noise.
If someone has the schematic available for email/dl I would love to play around and see if I can figure out a simpler mod than a 555 timer, as well as verify the tach signals could be connected together without isolation.
You give the projector too much credit on the sophistication of the fan sense circuit!
Here's a much simpler way to eliminate the fan altogether: Determine whether the fan is running on plus or minus 12 volts with respect to ground. If it's plus 12 on the red wire and the black is ground (I suspect it is), tie the yellow sense wire wire to the red wire (at the connector) and remove the fan. If it's minus twelve on the black wire, tie the yellow sense wire to black and remove the fan. The unit should run just fine.
Funny you should mention a 555 timer. I came up with a fan mod circuit for the bigger projectors to slow their fans down, and I used a 555 timer to do it. The timer controls a transistor that applies full voltage to the fans at turn on (to make sure they all start up reliably), then the timer turns a transistor on that puts a Zener diode in the circuit to run the fans at about 7.5 volts, and it's MUCH quieter. If you do a search in this forum for "Chuck's Fan Mod," you should find lots of chat about it. If you want the schematic, e-mail me.
The fans must have that sense wire or the projector will shut down. You either have to disable the fan sense circuit as I described above or live with the noise.
The second fan is easy to get to, and you can do it without taking the PJ down.
1)Pull the two screws holding the "top" cover. (Its on the bottom, since the PJ is upside down on the ceiling.)
2) Remove the two screws on either side of the user control panel. The panel cover will unsnap and the sony "Super Bright" (haha) logo will slide out.
3) Remove three screws revealed by the missing "Super Bright" logo plate. Carefully- Lower the rear main cover to about 45 degree and you can then unhook it from the front of the PJ. This should give you enough access to get to the second fan.
Have you unplugged the fans to see how the pj does without cooling? I have a 1031q and on that pj you can just unplug the leads from the fan board to the main circuit boards and it will kill the fans and not keep the pj from powering up. I would love to quiet down the pj, maybe it's me not having experience with pjs, but if this is quiet I would hate to have to deal with a 12xx model, mine sings already (fans may be shot).
I've only scene a 12xx in operation in a bar scene so I couldn't really guage the noise it's fans produce. Because my 1031Q is floor mounted the fans can detract a bit in quite scenes of a movie. It's like having white walls in your HT vs. black/dark walls - you will have ambient light keeping you from getting true black - just like with having un-modded fan noise keeping you from getting true silence in silent scenes.
Reading this thread makes me think about collecting some data on tempatures of the tube faces with and without the fans. On one of my mainboards I got (Abit BH6 I think) it came with a tempature sensor that can be taped to a surface. Then in the BIOS I can chart the tempatures.
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