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Fattire's Theater

49K views 477 replies 37 participants last post by  fattire 
#1 · (Edited)
I've debated a build thread for a while, but finally decided to pull the trigger. My room isn't anywhere near many of the amazing theaters folks have documented. However, most of us have to work with what we've got, so this might help some folks out :).

First off, I suppose some general info would be helpful. We built this house in 2009 and moved in on 1/1/2010. One of the reasons we chose this floor plan was the large "Texas basement" upstairs. I always wanted to turn it into a proper theater, or at least as proper as I could make it. The room is not a perfect rectangle, but is at least rectangular with no odd wall angles or vaulted ceilings.

24.5' long. 16' wide on the entry door wall. ~14.5' wide on the bathroom door wall. ~20' wide where the equipment rack is located. 8' ceiling height. Being on the second story, the room is on a suspended wood floor, that (mostly) overlaps with our garage.

The seating shows our recliners fully retracted and fully extended for comparison. We're still waiting on the 4th seat to show up.

Rectangle Font Line Parallel Slope


The most obvious challenge is our home office situation. We need to keep a guest bedroom free for family visitors. That forces the theater room into a multi-use room with the office at the back. It's not the end of the world, though. There's only 4 of us, so we have zero need or desire to have more than one row of seating.

What's not obvious now is that the entry wall with the door didn't exist when we moved in. That wall was originally a banister and railing leaving the room open to the downstairs. This was less than ideal! Our ground floor at the time was about 80% tile outside of the bedrooms. If someone dropped a pin, you could hear it upstairs from all the hard surfaces. It was really the same for sound from the theater. We took advantage of a pretty large remodel in 2020 to remove the railing and add the wall and door you see now. It was well worth the expense!

They layout you see here is actually a pretty recent change. Originally, the room was flipped 180° from the current orientation. I flipped the room in anticipation of changes later this year that I'll get into in a min. Because of the recent change, a lot of things are in temporary places (particularly the acoustic treatments).

Here are some photos as it sits as of today:

Looking up the stairwell. I need some acoustic art panels here to tame the reverb. No idea what that shadow line is. Not there with the naked eye ...

Property Fixture Wood Line Rectangle



View into room from entry door (back left to front right) ...

Furniture Couch Television Black Living room


View from my office (back right to front left) ...

Property Furniture Television Building Lighting


View from front right speaker ...

Property Couch Furniture Picture frame Interior design


View from front left speaker ...

Furniture Couch Picture frame Wood Interior design


Equipment rack ...

Computer hardware Audio equipment Electronic instrument Electrical wiring Gadget


Interior design Lighting Building Audio equipment Floor


Rough view from MLP ...

Couch Television Building Television set Interior design
 
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9
#2 · (Edited)
Current Equipment - 18 February 2024

Home Theater - 9.4.4

Processor:
Trinnov Altitude16​

Amplification:
Buckeye Amps custom 6 channel (2 x NC502MP, 1 x NC252MP)​
Buckeye Amps 8 channel (4 x NC252MP)​
2 x Powersoft 4804 DSP+D (Subs)​

Speakers:
LCR: Revel F228Be​
Wides, Surround, Surround Back: Revel F206​
Atmos: Revel C763L​

Subs:
4 x Harbottle Ridge 18.3 in custom 111L sealed enclosures​

Video:
Epson L12000​
MadVR Envy Extreme​
Panamorph CDR-E1​
Silver Ticket WAB 127” 2.35​
HDFury 8K VRROOM​

Sources:
Kaleidescape 22 TB Terra & Strato​
AppleTV 4K (Gen 3)​
Zidoo Z9X Pro​
Xbox Series X​
Synology DS1520+ NAS for Plex media storage​
Acoustic Treatments:
GIK 244 panels in a few sizes and colors​
Other:
Blue Jeans XLR cables​
Monoprice 12-ga speaker cable (with Sewell Deadbolt banana plugs or spades)​
HDMI Ruipro & Zeskit​
Harmony Elite Hub Remote​
Lutron & Hue lights​
HT Design Clark seats in brown​
All curtains are custom, full blackout, with a heavy acoustic layer​
Eve Motion Blinds blackout roller shades​
Office - 2.1
Speakers:
KEF LSX II Wireless​

Sub:
SVS SB-1000 Pro​
Headphones:
Focal Celstee (w/ Helm Audio DAC for travel)​

Living Room - 5.1.0
Receiver:
Yamaha RX-A1080​

Speakers:
LCR: Revel W363​
Surround: Revel C563​

Subs:
Klipsch R10-SW​
 
#8 ·
occasional BEQ
4 rhythmik 15” subs and only occasional BEQ?!? Shame 🔔 Shame 🔔 Shame 🔔
Just messin with ya ;)

Any thoughts of swapping out your center to have matching F228 Be LCR once you get your projector setup?
 
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#3 · (Edited)
What's Next??

This is the fun stuff :). I'm sure people noticed a LOT of issues with our current setup. Hell, up until yesterday, there was a ceiling fan hanging between the seating and the TV! Part of the reason for the somewhat haphazard look is that things are changing, but what, specifically?

Almost all of this is being driven by my desire to go to a projector in the near-ish future. I'm admittedly an audio-first person so yes, some of this is also being done to improve the audio quality as well. However, while I'm new to projectors, I do know that just like audio, the setup of the room is very important. In no particular order ...

We're going to enclose the area where the equipment rack is located, and turn it into a closet. This will truly square off the front stage to help even out the sound in the main room. It will also fully isolate the equipment. It's not really noisy at all, but I can hear it from time to time. Plus the lights are super annoying. These weren't really an issue until I flipped the room around about a month ago. I'll need to do a bit of electrical work to add a light fixture and switch. I'll also need to do a bit of AC work to add a cold-air register and hot-air return (likely forced return with an in-line fan). This sounds like a lot of work, but because of the existing AC and power layouts, it's actually not too bad. I'm holding off because of the summer heat in Texas!

Squaring the front stage with the "new" equipment room will help on a couple of fronts. First, it will even up the reflections from the mains and center so the sound stage will be more symmetrical. However, the main thing it will enable is creation of a minimal screen wall for the future projector. That's the blue tape you see on the floor in several of the "today" photos. I've outlined where the screen wall would be along with the center of the room and the edges of a few screen sizes we're debating.

I plan to do the typical minimal screen wall, AT screen, with the center an subs behind the screen. I will likely leave the L+R outside the screen due to the angles required to be in the recommended ranges. I also am debating a flat wall with the speakers angled as the are vs pulling them forward a bit and building a bit of an angle to the sides of the screen wall itself. That decision will largely be determined on where, exactly, the equipment room door ends up.

Acoustic treatment changes will be pretty big. I plan to treat the entire area behind the screen with absorption. I'll cover the window up there. I don't have any bass traps at the moment so I'll look to leverage that area for that purpose as much as possible. In the room, I plan to add diffusion at the ipsilateral reflection points of the LCR on the sidewall and ceiling. I'll continue to treat the contralateral reflections with absorption as I've always done. I'm not sure what to do about treating the back of the room. I haven't made it that far in the thought process and it's easy to do later. I'm actually a little worried about that much absorption. The RT30 in my room is already on the lower end naturally. I'll need to be careful to not over absorb things.

I've got some speaker changes actively in flight. I have 4 x Revel F206s coming. 2 will be added as front wides. 2 will be surround backs. The current surround back M105s will become the surrounds, and I'll sell the S16s.

No idea what I'm going to do for a projector. Likely a JVC laser, but I do want to see unbiased, real world reviews of the new Sony projectors. I've tried gaming at 120 Hz, but think I'm too old or too casual to really see the difference on such a large screen from an 11' viewing distance (more like 13' right now).

Smaller changes include painting the front 2/3 or so of the room in a dark color, adding a dark rug, and other little basics like that.

Most of these changes will be "months" in the making, but now I have a place to update and document things :).
 
#5 ·
The best part of the build is seeing the changes/vision take place. I think all your changes you are thinking of are gonna be great! Lots of positive things to look forward to!!
You already have lots of great gear, a great plan for the space, I look forward to seeing it once you have it all done the way you want it!
 
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#6 ·
The best part of the build is seeing the changes/vision take place. I think all your changes you are thinking of are gonna be great! Lots of positive things to look forward to!!
You already have lots of great gear, a great plan for the space, I look forward to seeing it once you have it all done the way you want it!
I appreciate it! Now I know why so many folks said "this is x years in the making" about their theaters. Unless you've got a blank check and blank slate, it can definitely be an evolutionary process.

So many things I should have done differently from the start (need to add "replacing my short AV rack with a tall one" to the list).
 
#7 ·
A lot to love here! Some of the best speakers ever made! 4 Subwoofer locations, love the mixing work with pleasure!!
 
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#11 · (Edited)
Two small updates and one very big one ...

Small #1
My 4th theater seat finally arrived today. This was a bit of a saga due to ordering a color that HT Market don't keep in their ready-to-ship stock, then an issue at the factory, very long industry shipping times, etc. That being said, Alan and Tom over at @HTmarket were absolutely great to work with. They did everything they could to make things right without me actually asking for anything or raising an issue. That kind of proactive customer service is unfortunately becoming a rare thing. I won't hesitate recommending them because of that. Pics at the end of this post.

Small #2
I got the shipping notice on the new speakers. I'm still waiting on tracking to hit the system, but should have them in about a week at the latest. Looks like they'll arrive Friday afternoon! There are 4 x Revel F206s coming. 2 will be front wides. 2 will be surround backs. My current surround back Revel M105s will go to side surround duty, and I'll (likely) sell my current Revel S16 side surrounds).

Later this week, or perhaps this weekend, I'll get the subs calibrated for 4 positions with MSO (only calibrated for 3 right now). I'll wait for the speakers to get here and get them setup before running the Dirac calibration.

Very Big Update!
I'm officially ordering a Trinnov Altitude16! I got the chance to listen to one this weekend. A few things came together yesterday so it's a go! I should have the order placed in the next day or two. Then the wait begins. Trinnov stock in the US is very low. They are additionally making some internal changes on the processor due to the chip shortage so it's just an uncertain time. No one can really predict when I'll receive it. I've waited forever for this, though, so I can wait a little longer :). This will certainly delay my move to a projector just due to the finances. However, I'm likely to still go forward with a false front wall and just move my current TV forward a bit and hide all the front stage speakers. I shouldn't have to rework too much when I finally make the PJ jump.

Exciting times!!

Brown Furniture Comfort Couch Interior design

Brown Couch Furniture Comfort Living room

Brown Furniture Couch Property Picture frame

Couch Furniture Table Television Building
 
#14 ·
Two small updates and one very big one ...

Small #1
My 4th theater seat finally arrived today. This was a bit of a saga due to ordering a color that HT Market don't keep in their ready-to-ship stock, then an issue at the factory, very long industry shipping times, etc. That being said, Alan and Tom over at @HTmarket were absolutely great to work with. They did everything they could to make things right without me actually asking for anything or raising an issue. That kind of proactive customer service is unfortunately becoming a rare thing. I won't hesitate recommending them because of that. Pics at the end of this post.

Small #2
I got the shipping notice on the new speakers. I'm still waiting on tracking to hit the system, but should have them in about a week at the latest. Looks like they'll arrive Friday afternoon! There are 4 x Revel F206s coming. 2 will be front wides. 2 will be surround backs. My current surround back Revel M105s will go to side surround duty, and I'll (likely) sell my current Revel S16 side surrounds).

Later this week, or perhaps this weekend, I'll get the subs calibrated for 4 positions with MSO (only calibrated for 3 right now). I'll wait for the speakers to get here and get them setup before running the Dirac calibration.

Very Big Update!
I'm officially ordering a Trinnov Altitude16! I got the chance to listen to one this weekend. A few things came together yesterday so it's a go! I should have the order placed in the next day or two. Then the wait begins. Trinnov stock in the US is very low. They are additionally making some internal changes on the processor due to the chip shortage so it's just an uncertain time. No one can really predict when I'll receive it. I've waited forever for this, though, so I can wait a little longer :). This will certainly delay my move to a projector just due to the finances. However, I'm likely to still go forward with a false front wall and just move my current TV forward a bit and hide all the front stage speakers. I shouldn't have to rework too much when I finally make the PJ jump.

Exciting times!!

View attachment 3305870
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I see those seats and I just think one thing and one thing only...

Looking great!
 
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#13 ·
That makes total sense! I'd love a dedicated, purpose built room sometime in the future. For now, I'm hell-bent on making this the best room I can. Work with what you've got!
 
#16 ·
Getting ready for the F206s to arrive tomorrow. I pulled my Revel S16s off the wall and positioned the M105s as closely to the Dolby spec while maintaining symmetry. Of course ... I hit my first snag. These are in-room speakers so I need to have the speaker wire continue down the wall to an existing wall plate. I'll add the typical banana plug compatible binding posts there for a nice clean look.

The rub is that on one side, there's plenty of wire to get to the existing outlet. On the other, not so much. Running a fresh, single wire on that side isn't an option. It's an exterior, 2x6 wall, double header, with the upstairs roof on top of it. I could try and tie the wire to the existing and pull from the attic, but it's VERY tight up there with the angle of the roof. To get them there in the first place, I had to cut a 12x12 hole in the sheetrock. If the wires separated going through the tight turn, I'd have to cut everything open again. Not happening.

I'm going to extend the wire on that side. Since the splice will be in the wall, I'll solder the connection, wrap the +/- in separate shrink wrap, cover that in yet another, larger shrink wrap, and then finally wrap all of that in electrical tape. Overkill? Absolutely, but I don't ever want to mess with it again.

I haven't pulled the brackets for the S16s down just yet. Yes, I'll need to patch the hole from the previous opening for the on-walls. I'll need to drywall the new closet, so I'm saving all the drywall to get it done in one go later on.
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Done! Ended up skipping the e-tape and going double, overlapping shrink wrap. Crappy part is I only need like another foot of length 😡
 

Attachments

#18 ·
The Revel Fairy showed up today. Well, half showed up ;-). Two of my F206s came in. Hat tip to UPS for beating the ever-loving crap out of them. One of them was non-functional when I hooked it up. The positive wires had come off the binding post inside the speaker. Definitely a combination of UPS' ineptitude and a poor solder (wasn't nearly as good as the other three). Took a bit of a marathon to find a soldering torch since my electric iron wouldn't cut it. Much cursing and one whiskey later and they're setup in surround-back duty.

Two more should get here tomorrow. I'll have front wides and a 9.4.4 setup when done. Of course, provided UPS hasn't destroyed them en-route. Eff you, UPS.

The Revel Be boxes I have from last year are pristine. These look like they did hard time in Shawshank. Props to Harman/Revel for packing them well. Zero cosmetic damage and they measure identically after the quick repair.

Shipping box Rectangle Wood Floor Packaging and labeling


Brown Wood Font Rectangle Tints and shades


Automotive tire Tread Audio equipment Synthetic rubber Gas


Here are some verification measurements with haphazard mic placement after the repair. Looks great. These are way away from any walls so they get zero boundary gain on the low end. No boundaries is one of the reasons I wanted to upgrade these. The new positions of the M105s will give them plenty of boundary gain to help them out.

Colorfulness Rectangle Slope Plot Font
 
#19 · (Edited)
One of the downsides of converting an existing room are the speaker wires. It's nice to be able to easily tweak and reconfigure things, but I hate seeing speaker wires. Where I do see them, I want them to look tidy and professional. I did some research and found an easy way to get really good looking cables without breaking the bank.

Parts:
Speaker Cable
Braided Sleeve (3/8 for the 12-ga cable linked above)
Speaker Pants (12-ga size worked well with cable + techflex + heat shrink)
Deadbolt Banana Plugs
Deadbolt Spade Plugs
3/8" Heat Shrink Tubing

Tools:
Speaker Wire Stripper (I absolutely LOVE this one)
Hot Knife (example, but mine is similar)
Heat Gun (optional, but extremely convenient)

TechFlex comes in all kinds of colors. I went with basic black that should disappear once I paint the room a dark color. Don't try to cut the TechFlex sleeve with anything but a hot knife. I learned the hard way. The hot knife will cut and weld the ends so they don't fray. If you just cut them, they'll fray like mad and be super tough to work with. Other than that, it's super easy.

Easy enough to explain the process with just a few pictures:

Parts laid out using a spade connector as an example. I'd cut the heat shrink tubing into 1" lengths. That's long enough to secure the techflex to the cable, but short enough to be completely hidden by the speaker pants.

Brown Hood Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior


Here, I've stripped the outer jacket and fed the wire through the techflex. That takes a bit of practice but once you get the technique down it goes super fast. I suggest feeding the wire through the techflex straight off the spool. Use the hot knife to cut the techflex and leave it a bit long. You'll need to get one end of the techflex in place, measure where to cut the other end, then work the techflex off the wire to cut it in the right place.

Again, it sounds more complicated than it is. However, it's a little fiddly to get the techflex to the correct length before fitting it to the cable. I found I had to trim it a second time more often than not. Just doing it the way described above proved to be faster with less waste.

The outer jacket is stripped down to the "Y" in the speaker pants plus about 1" of additional length. We need enough wire to go through the pants, the connectors, and enough to fold over inside the connector. Again, it will make sense when you do it.

Brown Wood Neck Rectangle Flooring


Heat shrink installed to keep the techflex in place and make fitting the speaker pants easy.

Wood Floor Flooring Cable Hardwood



Leaving this one a little larger. Speaker pants installed along with most of the connectors. The connectors unscrew into a base and tip. The wire goes through the base and is then frayed out over these little teeth in the base. You only want about 3/16 of bare copper outside of the base. Too much and you won't be able to screw the tip/spade onto the base. Too little and you won't get a good connection.

If you got the heat shrink correct, there's room to slide the speaker pants back and forth a little to get the lengths just right. There's no problem with more exposed copper inside the connectors. I typically stripped 1/2" from the conductors and then adjusted the pants to make it perfect.

Wood Automotive exterior Bicycle part Auto part Hardwood



One end of a finished cable. I prefer spade connectors on the speakers and banana plugs on the amp side. But you do you, Boo.

Wood Bicycle part Bicycle tire Hardwood Flooring



Installed. You can't really see through the techflex without the flash (as in this picture).

Cameras & optics Gas Asphalt Gadget Audio equipment
 
#22 ·
Okay - two days in and I'm starting to get the hang of things in the Trinnov. People that think Dirac is complicated should stay far, far away from trying to self install, configure, and calibrate.

I started by factory reseting my JBL SDP-55 in preparation to sell it to @Molon_Labe. He's got some work stuff going on but should be able to pick it up in a week or two. I hope to make it down his way to check out his theater when it's back up and running.

Physical setup of the Trinnov is pretty straight forward, and just like any other processor. Once it's up and running, that's where the similarities end. All the configuration is done through a web interface, but there are two of them. One is simple and allows changing sources, volume, and temporary basic configuration changes. To actually save any changes or configure even basic stuff (like naming inputs), there's a second web remote interface. They look the same but the second one is technically a Remote Desktop and allows full control.

The most important things to keep in mind is the concept of "sources" and "presets". You might wonder "aren't an input and a source the same thing?" On a Trinnov they are not. I have never used the high-end Anthem units, but I believe they have this concept as well.

Input
Physical connection for an external device. Your typical HDMI 1 to whatever, SPDIF, etc.

Source
Ties a physical "input" with a combination of settings. These settings define all kinds of things like ... what "Preset" to use (see below), what output connections to use (for using external DACs / processing), the default listening format (Atmos, DTS, etc), and a BUNCH of other stuff. Sources also get custom names of your choosing.

Presets
This is where the magic happens. The preset collects the speaker layout, bass management settings, room correction measurements, target curves, levels, delays, and again, a million other things.

When you put these things together, you can create sources that cover all the listening you want to do. Simple examples are a 9.1.4 preset for movies and a 2.0 preset for music. Then have an AppleTV for movies source and an AppleTV for music source. This is pretty simple, but can get very complicated and support multiple physical speaker layouts and optimizations for those layouts. It's super powerful.

Then there's all the crazy speaker routing and arrays that you can do in the preset as well. DTS and older Dolby formats don't support front wides. You can create an array of the front wide and same-side surround. They then carry the same content the native soundtracks are used. This is really useful for television and sports delivered in 5.1.

The hardest part of getting things up and running is the "Optimizer" which is Trinnov's room correction. At a high level, it works like any other room correction package. Place the mic, measure the speakers, go and tweak. Where it's tough is that the presets above can be fiddly. Any change that is made is temporary unless you actually save it to a preset. If you forget to save, which I did a LOT of over the last 2 days, the optimizer results are terrible. LOL!

Tonight, I finally took my time and simplified things. I created a preset with just the LCR and sub. I pre-measured with REW and found some of the mistakes I had made over the first two days. I've now got a great initial calibration and enough confidence to do the full 9.1.4 this weekend.

This is barely scratching the surface, but I thought I'd layout what the process looked like for anyone that cared to know. It's also my build thread and I'll say what I want here ;-P
 
#23 ·
Super interesting to read your thoughts on the next level of processor.

They look the same but the second one is technically a Remote Desktop and allows full control.
Thats pretty cool sounding and I’m sure very intimidating. The web UI of the SDP-55 can be complicated enough for some one new to it so I’m sure your new processor is exponentially more complicated. Hey, you an’t have more control over your sound without making things more complicated.

When you’re redoing things that you didn’t do 100% correctly the first time, just remember, there are no mistakes, just lessons (at least that’s what I tell myself ;)).

How’s the wiring going in the rear of this new beast? Everything put back together good enough before you start on your room construction?
 
#27 ·
Small update today - I got the HDFury 8K VRROOM working with the Xbox Series X. I'm using a Ruipro Gen3/C 10M hybrid fiber cable to get HDMI to my TV. I ended up needing to use one of the HDMI power injectors to get things stable. I tried using different locations/combinations, but what worked for me 100% was using one injector on the display side of the cable.

Games and HDR/DV all look awesome and are running buttery smooth. Our son is already bugging me to finish messing around so he can try it out. Now I'll be able to see myself failing miserably in twice the frame rate! 🤣 .

FWIW - I went the HDFury route for two reasons. One is that HDMI 2.1 isn't an option on the Trinnov yet. Two is that I got a good deal on a used one from another AVSForum member. I couldn't pass it up at the price. Now that I've got it working, there's really no reason to upgrade the Trinnov at any point in the foreseeable future. The 8K VRROOM has 4 inputs on it, and I'm only using 2 of them (one for Xbox, one for all things not-Xbox). I have zero plans for anything beyond the Xbox that would need HDMI 2.1. 8K is practically non existent along with any content outside of gaming that needs high frame rates. If that were to change substantially, I could always upgrade the Trinnov or go to some future device with more connectivity (like a future HDMI 2.1 Lumagen).
 
#28 · (Edited)
I got chastised for not updating the thread so here's an update :)

I started the work to enclose the equipment area and turn it into a closet. I got the corner trim pulled and cut back enough drywall for a 2x4 corner stud to fit in. I'll need to pull that outlet into the new wall and will have it face into the closet. I don't want to rerun that romex so I'll leave it as is and just have it mounted a bit higher than normal.

I also got all of the other crap pulled out of that area. Two large base cabinets and 4 uppers full of all kinds of stuff. They can kind of be seen in one of the original photos I posted above. The room is absolutely packed with crap now. LOL. I also grabbed all the framing studs and borrowed a framing nail gun and compressor from a buddy.

I need to figure out what door to go with. The half-bath is a 2/4x80, but that size is tough to find, and impossible in a solid door without special order. I can go to a 2/6x80 but don't know if the wider door will look goofy. Probably not so I'll likely go this route. They're pretty cheap and in stock locally.

I hope to get some or all of the framing done this week after work. Our son has early AM football practice and our daughter made the volleyball team, though, so I have to get up early and I am NOT a morning person. If not during the week then finished next weekend for sure.

Building Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood
Wood Interior design Flooring Floor Building


Wood Floor Flooring Gas Hardwood


Last update is I ordered 2 x 18.3 drivers from Harbottle Audio. I'm going to build 2 x sealed subs in ~6 cu. ft. enclosures (final size/design to be done). These will go in the front of my room and replace 2 of my current 4 Rythmik FVX15s. I love these subs, but wanted to try something different. For me, in this case, different is bigger and sealed with a lot more power. Drivers will take 5-8 weeks to arrive so I need to have the equipment closet done by then.

Going to be hard with hunting season starting Thursday!
 
#29 ·
I got chastised for not updating the thread so here's an update :)

Last update is I ordered 2 x 18.3 drivers from Harbottle Audio. I'm going to build 2 x sealed subs in ~6 cu. ft. enclosures (final size/design to be done). These will go in the front of my room and replace 2 of my current 4 Rythmik FVX15s. I love these subs, but wanted to try something different. For me, in this case, different is bigger and sealed with a lot more power.

Going to be hard with hunting season starting Thursday!
Go hunting. It's good for the constitution. I hunt, and I'm awesome.... ish... lol 😆
 
#31 ·
Opening weekend for dove is a wash out ...

Beard Movie Fictional character Facial hair Armour


Wood Flooring Floor Audio equipment Gas


In the process of unhooking all the cabling to the front of the room now. I wanted to get the base set and make sure I liked the door location first. Goal is to have the wall fully framed, and pick up what I need for the electrical by the end of the day.
 
#32 ·
Pretty much done framing. Couldn't quite finish due to the electrical wires you see dangling there. That outlet was right where the stud on the left needed to go. I pulled the wires through and will just put the outlet in the closet. Unfortunately, the breaker on that outlet kills all the wall outlets in reasonable reach of the compressor.

The header is just sitting in there for now so I could triple check measurements. Cripple studs are cut and ready to go in.

Off to Home Depot to grab the electrical stuff to fix that outlet, add a switch and light in the closet, and add 2 x 15A outlets downstream of the 2 x 20A circuits feeding the equipment rack. Those outlets will go between the first two studs up against the right wall. They'll eventually be behind a false screen wall. I won't really need them when I move to a projector. However, my current subs and TV need power so I'll go ahead and add them while I'm at it.

Wood Flooring Floor Shade Hardwood
 
#33 ·
AZIZ!! LIGHT!!!

Only electrical left are the two outlets going to the 20A circuits. These are gonna suck just because of where the 20A circuits are located. You can see them in the photo below to the left of the equipment rack. The extension outlets are just at the bottom right. The problem is the roof slopes down to the exterior wall on the right. There's hardly any room to get my fat butt into that space. The second bit is just getting to those 20A outlets. I've intentionally avoided getting into that part of the attic. I paid to have those two put in because I know it sucks.

I guess the upside is I'll finally be able to get my long fish tape that I dropped down there like 8 years ago. LOL.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Shelving
 
#34 ·
Electrical done and tidied up. Just about done with drywall inside the room. I ran out of drywall screws because of course I did.

I started on the inside in case I made mistakes so they wouldn't be visible. Having never hung drywall before, I'm happy I got the top done in a single sheet. I want absolutely as little dust as possible in the room and house. I pre-cut the openings for the door and switch, and it worked out pretty well. Getting that sheet up the stairs and into the room without breaking was the trickiest part. Fortunately my wife is awesome. It lined up almost perfectly except for a little overlap midway up the door frame. I was able take that down very slowly with a drywall rasp and the shop vac.

Tomorrow I'll get the mineral wool in the wall, hang the outside and hopefully get the first layer of mud done and drying. I'll be glad when I'm not running up and down the stairs every time I need to do something.

Flooring Floor Wood Tints and shades Electric blue

Building Wood Interior design Flooring Floor

Wood Interior design Floor Flooring Wood stain
 
#35 ·
Everything done and ready for tape and mud. Life happened today so I didn’t quite get that far. I’ve got some travel coming up so this will end up sitting for a bit. I really want to get everything but texture done before I hit the road. Probably won’t get back to it until October :-(

Wood Fixture Flooring Floor Hall

Wood Tints and shades Fixture Gas Flooring
 
#39 ·
Finally got the last coat of mud on the walls. I had to do two intermediate coats. Some areas of the existing walls had some not-obvious bows and dips that only showed up with the 12" knife. I might need to do one more skim coat in the area with the worst bow (middle point of the left butt seam right where it meets the horizontal flat seam). We'll see how it looks when I get back home; I might be able to get away with just a bit of sanding there.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with how this is turning out.

Building Interior design Wood Living room House
 
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