[darkthrone]

Which type of tape is better for tape and texture of dry wall (basement)? I've used the traditional paper tape, but never tried the fiber glass mesh tape. I heard it's easier to use the fiberglass tape, but is it just as good as the paper type?

 

[BrotherAaron]

I have very limited experience, but from what I've read its really a matter of personal preference. Websites created by professionals suggest that the fiberglass tape is best if you use the setting type mud and the paper tape for the standard pre-mixed mud. I personally prefer the paper tape but the secret is to thin the mud a bit and make sure that you get plenty of mud behind the tape so you can work out the air pockets/bubbles behind the tape.

I've had issues covering the fiberglass tape (takes alot more mud to cover it).


Good luck

 

[Scopeguy]

My experience is also limited, but I echo what BrotherAaron says. I found it quite alot harder to cover mesh tape vs the paper tape.


Greg

 

[Anthony A.]

yup, and if you don't have enough mud then you hit it sanding and you have to re-mud. i guess the same is true with paper, although i prefer paper for large areas and fibreglass for small repairs.

 

[darkthrone]



Quote:
Originally Posted by BrotherAaron /forum/post/16884765


I have very limited experience, but from what I've read its really a matter of personal preference. Websites created by professionals suggest that the fiberglass tape is best if you use the setting type mud and the paper tape for the standard pre-mixed mud. I personally prefer the paper tape but the secret is to thin the mud a bit and make sure that you get plenty of mud behind the tape so you can work out the air pockets/bubbles behind the tape.

I've had issues covering the fiberglass tape (takes alot more mud to cover it).


Good luck

So far i've just used the pre-mixed mud, but i should thin out the mud just a little?

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

Fiberglass tape is easier to get down right the first time for beginners. A lot of beginners have problems with paper tape bubbling when it drys.


One way to avoid this with paper tape is to only bed it in mud the first day and then start covering it on subsequent days. A lot of guys will add the first cover coat when they first tape the seam, as it drys it can lift the tape and cause bubbles since the bed coat hasn't dried first.

 

[Johnsteph10]

I also prefer paper tape and every pro I've ever seen has used paper as well.


As biggie said -- apply your first layer then embed the WET tape into the layer, smooth it out...and back away. (wetting the tape is very important as it will help it embed well into the mud)


Don't cover the tape until the next coat.


Thin the mud -- it is way too thick when it comes in the pre-mixed buckets. Usually about a quart of water added will get you to the right consistency.

 

[darkthrone]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsteph10 /forum/post/16886081


I also prefer paper tape and every pro I've ever seen has used paper as well.


As biggie said -- apply your first layer then embed the WET tape into the layer, smooth it out...and back away. (wetting the tape is very important as it will help it embed well into the mud)


Don't cover the tape until the next coat.


Thin the mud -- it is way too thick when it comes in the pre-mixed buckets. Usually about a quart of water added will get you to the right consistency.

Wet down the tape before i put it on? Or do you mean put mud on, then put the tape on and make sure its wet? I've people wet down the tape for corners.


Thanks a lot for all your inputs, its greatly appreciated!!

 

[Staffy]

Paper if you want to do it right. Paper is slightly harder to get it right when first starting out, mesh is easier, but with downsides..


The downside to mesh is the thickness... plus when finishing, if you touch the mesh with sandpaper, it frays up and will be noticeable after painting. You can sand the paper tape all of the way down and any frays will be hidden when you prime it.


Don't forget there might be code in your area regarding where you can use mesh.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

While we are on the subject of tape and mudding I got some free lessons from my "pro" as he didn't charge me more for teaching me his tricks as he worked his magic.


Thin the mix as has been mentioned

Several thin smooth coats rather than thick coats, I think he did three total.


On inside corners instead of using those double bladed corner tools he used a straight blade. First thing in the morning he went around the basement and hit all the left hand side of inside corners and where the wall meets the ceiling. Then he hit all the flat seams and screws. By mid afternoon he went back and did the right hand side of the inside corners as the left had set and he could do the other side without messing up the earlier work. He said he felt he had more control of the straight blade and it would result in less sanding at the end.


Compared to my efforts there was very little sanding.

 

[Johnsteph10]



Quote:
Originally Posted by darkthrone /forum/post/16886133


Wet down the tape before i put it on? Or do you mean put mud on, then put the tape on and make sure its wet? I've people wet down the tape for corners.


Thanks a lot for all your inputs, its greatly appreciated!!

Wet down the tape before you put it on. It isn't supposed to be dripping wet, just damp.

 

[carboranadum]



Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/16885600


Fiberglass tape is easier to get down right the first time for beginners. A lot of beginners have problems with paper tape bubbling when it drys.

+1....that's what I used and it worked really, really well.


CJ

 

[ctviggen]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsteph10 /forum/post/16886081



Thin the mud -- it is way too thick when it comes in the pre-mixed buckets. Usually about a quart of water added will get you to the right consistency.

Per what size bucket?

 

[Suntan]

 http://www.drywallschool.com/


I would have a look over this site. It was the only education I got on the subject and I was able to drywall my basement with pretty good results.


As for embedding the tape when putting it up, don't be afraid to put a lot of mud up on the joint. Getting half or more of the mud to come back off when pressing the tape into the joint with your blade is normal.


-Suntan

 

[RTROSE]

Or you could do what I did and hire a drywaller!


Actually I watched him do some of the work and he used paper tape and he had a metal box he placed the tape in and "loaded" it with thinned out mix and the box applied some mix to the tape as it was applied and he just used a straight blade to work it into the corners. His taper was similar to this but was hand held. Seemed to work very well.


I would tend to suggest paper since every professional I know uses paper. That alone should tell you something.


Regards,


RTROSE

 

[yaj123]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntan /forum/post/16888642

http://www.drywallschool.com/


I would have a look over this site. It was the only education I got on the subject and I was able to drywall my basement with pretty good results.


As for embedding the tape when putting it up, don't be afraid to put a lot of mud up on the joint. Getting half or more of the mud to come back off when pressing the tape into the joint with your blade is normal.


-Suntan

I also used this site a ton when I drywalled my basement. Of course it took me like 6 months to finish but it was worth it. I actually got really good at working with paper and my results turned out great. I definately suggest paper in at least the corners. Good luck!

 

[ctviggen]



Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE /forum/post/16888645



I would tend to suggest paper since every professional I know uses paper. That alone should tell you something.


Regards,


RTROSE

I have book about how to install and finish drywall, written by a pro, and he recommends mesh tape for normal seams (not butted seams). However, he also uses setting and finishing compounds.

 

[carboranadum]

I read most everything on www.drywallschool.com and purchased a few books. The book that was most useful was titled " Drywall " by Myron Ferguson. It's published by Taunton Press and is well worth the money.


CJ

 

[darkthrone]

I gotta wait with the drywall taping...i was gonna fix some seams that were cracking. Not sure if the previous owners of my house messed up or something. But some of the drywall sheets are bad so i gotta replace a few

I figured it would be easier and faster anyway to just start fresh. Instead of sanding all that stuff down.

www.drywallschool.com is a pretty nice page...thanks for the tip

 

[Johnsteph10]



Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum /forum/post/16890307


I read most everything on www.drywallschool.com and purchased a few books. The book that was most useful was titled " Drywall " by Myron Ferguson. It's published by Taunton Press and is well worth the money.


CJ

I got that same book - it really is excellent

http://www.amazon.com/Drywall-Hangin...8624198&sr=8-1