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I bought an Anamorphic Research lens for $995, and spent another $300 for the manual slide. It is brand new (arrives tomorrow, I was one of the early preorders), so I can't really comment yet, and nobody that I know of has done a side-by-side comparison yet. But it fits your budget.



Your throw ratio is 1.8 (calculated by 183/(130*0.75)) so that's pretty good (the larger the better, and you don't want to be below 1.5 or 1.6 if i recall).


Maybe you can find a used CAVX Aussiemorphic lens?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horta /forum/post/18101363


Anamorphic stretch will be done in my ISF receiver the Onkyo TX-NR906 (isf Certified Calibration Control) See PDF page from the user manual. I have tested it with blu-ray 2:35.1 material and it works perfectly.



As always and comments are highly appreciated

Jerry

Very cool to see that Onkyo have added this to their AVRs. So you have Mode 1 Scaling sorted, what about mode 2? Or will you just remove the lens?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX /forum/post/18103556


Very cool to see that Onkyo have added this to their AVRs. So you have Mode 1 Scaling sorted, what about mode 2? Or will you just remove the lens?

I planned on just sliding the lens out of place.


Ok now I must ask whats mode 2? Is there an easy way I can keep the lens in place? I think that would be easier.
 

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It is a 4:3 letterbox squeeze to fit 16:9 in a 2.40 frame and leave the lens in place its what I do very easy quick ratio change. Lots of Panamorph deals to be had or find a CAVX lens they are in your budget and high quality.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horta /forum/post/18103776


I planned on just sliding the lens out of place.


Ok now I must ask whats mode 2? Is there an easy way I can keep the lens in place? I think that would be easier.

Nasty N8 is on the ball
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasty N8 /forum/post/18104262


It is a 4:3 letterbox squeeze to fit 16:9 in a 2.40 frame and leave the lens in place its what I do very easy quick ratio change. Lots of Panamorph deals to be had or find a CAVX lens they are in your budget and high quality.

Ok let me see if I get this right. Set my blu-ray, DVD, and all my equipment to 4:3 so the image is tall and skinny?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horta /forum/post/18104999


Ok let me see if I get this right. Set my blu-ray, DVD, and all my equipment to 4:3 so the image is tall and skinny?

Not quite. You set the BD/DVD player (and all other source components you have) to 16:9. You then use the 4 x 3 mode on the projector if it has one which I think all do.


For Scope, you will use the AVR or you could use a letterbox mode. What is your TR again?
 

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In my opinion, if you only have $1,000-1,250 to spend on a lens, your best lens is no lens. Just zoom.

As for leaving the lens in place for all formats, you will be needlessly sacrificing picture quality in the 4;3 and 16:9 films. You really do need a slide mechanism to get that lens out of the way when it is not needed for the 2.35 films. That's why they are made.
 

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You also think lenses are worthless in general



Horta, as far as lens goes, keep an eye out for something like a UH380/UH480, ISCO, etc. What you want to look for is something with CA (Chromatic Aberation) and Astigmatism correction. You won't be able to get that new I don't think, but you might be able to find one used.
 

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I picked up a Panamorph 440 lens(380 modified with the 480 lenses) in that price range and it is by far the best picture I have seen on my screen(even zoomed). I had started with a slide and really did not see a difference (and I am pretty picky) so now no slide just scaling for the little 16/9 content I do watch.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by taffman /forum/post/18107908


As for leaving the lens in place for all formats, you will be needlessly sacrificing picture quality in the 4;3 and 16:9 films. You really do need a slide mechanism to get that lens out of the way when it is not needed for the 2.35 films. That's why they are made.

Pictures coming soon taffman
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbase1 /forum/post/18112029


below the screen

I agree. If you do not have an AT screen, then under the screen is the next best placement option. Also avoid breaking the horizontal plain if you can.
 

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It's a balance of being below the screen enough so you don't look into the CTR speaker at 1st/2nd row instead of your image, yet shooting the sound over the head of 1st row so 2nd row is not blocked (if possible).



I put mine on adj shelf bracket and that helped tweak it up/down, and made custom wedges to angle the speaker towards ears of 2nd row.

(this pict before carpet install/etc, so basement cement floor shown)
 

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what on earth exploded on the floor in that second pic what type of bomb diffusal practices are you running
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmalloc /forum/post/18115835


what on earth exploded on the floor in that second pic what type of bomb diffusal practices are you running

2nd pict taken before carpet install/etc, so basement cement floor shown with 1/2" gap floor to drywall, which I filled with foam sealant (and later trimmed the excess which you see here), those 2 walls are exterior basement walls.

Other mess on floor is probably misc paint/other.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horta /forum/post/18117691


Guys


OK when I designed my current room about 6 years ago many people argue that above the screen was ideal. If I remember correctly because voices would sound more natural coming from above than below especially for close up scene, but honestly I have forgotten all the pro and cons of the two. So two people are saying below, but can anyone explain why?

Here just my take and I am sure others will voice their points of view. The truth is, we are less sensitive to vertical mis-alignment than we are to horizontal mis-alignment. This is why we can place a centre speaker higher (or lower) than the L and R speakers and not really hear a difference.


Given your speakers are THX Ultra 2 certified, you would be aware of their control over the vertical directivity. This is the most important aspect you need to be concerned about - that you actually aim them at the listenig position. Regardless if you have them above or below your screen, you must aim them and they must be mounted to allow the CDV to work as designed.


I have heard speaker both above and below and whilst I would choose below, there are times when it might be desirable to have them above.


However, the last system I heard with the speakers above also has them turned 90 degrees to give a lower profile, and as a result, there was allot of reflected sound off the ceiling, even when aimed down. This tended to produce a slightly diffuse effect and made the speakers not as point source. I am sure there are those that think this is great, and for music only appliactions, it probably is. However, when you combine video with the audio, you need to be setting up for the best for both. If part of a film sound track is meant to be heard as diffuse, then the sound mixers will alter the phase/time relationship in the mix. Your sound system should not be doing it acoustically with interactions in the room.
 
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