[Jawhn]

I am setting up my newly acquired 1031Q for the forth time in 2 weeks (just trying to get familiar with it). Things are going pretty well, with a few minor problems.


1. The image is slightly Keystoned sideways (the right side is about 1" narrower than the left (1/2 " top & bottom). The PJ is perfectly aligned and squared (I've checked it 5 times).


2. I can't seem to get SHARP focus on the tube face. How sharp should it be? There is no visible wear on the tubes and I BELIEVE G2 is correct. What other adjustments would effect this focus?


3. How do you adjust the horizontal size of the IMAGE on the raster. Also, how do you move the IMAGE on the raster, from side to side. Every control or pot I've tried moves the RASTER and NOT the IMAGE. My image extends past the edge of the raster. As an example, the Avia crosshatch pattern has the right side line past the edge of the raster (same with the right border on the THX screen). This is very annoying. All blanking controls I'm AWARE of (the 5 pots under the convergence board) are completely open.


I'm using a VB50 and an Extron 120 (I've tried the Horizontal adjustment)and not an HTPC.


I've spent much time on the eboyztoyz sight. Any help would be appreciated.


Jawhn

 

[bravozulu]

You can move the image in the raster with Powerstrip on your HTPC - by increasing the size of the horizontal porch settings you squeeze the image information into a smaller fraction of each horizontal scan.

So far, this is the only way that I found to get an unclipped image on my 1031q.


Also, there is a knob on the rear panel (the user controls, accessible when all covers are on), to the left of the LINE / RGB1 / RGB2 input select buttons - its labelled "H Shift - RGB 2". I think that this moves the image in the raster.


How sharp is your focus? If you run the Nokia focus pattern, how clear are the pixels? Can you see scan lines on the phosphor?


Pete

 

[Jawhn]

I am not using an HTPC so Powerstrip is out, as is Nokia. I do have Avia. What pattern is best on this disk for focus adjustment? The "H Shift - RGB 2" moves the raster. As to the focus, no I can't see scan lines. The picture is also Grainy on the tube faces.


BTW: There is NO fungus.

 

[Jawhn]

Surely with the many 10XX users on the board someone knows how to move the image (adjust the porch settings) without an HTPC.

 

[Jawhn]

I can live with #1, but the other 2 are really important.

 

[bravozulu]

Focus: have you read this thread - the fabled "Guy Kuo - Holy Focus" article:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...595#post728595



Not too sure about the other one - I presume that your "VB50" is ViewSonic's video box ( http://www.viewsonic.com/products/video_box_vb50.htm ). The problem is that this box spits out a VGA signal with horizontal porch that are too short for the 1031q, so you miss some of the image. My solution for this was powerstrip on my HTPC, squeezing the image into a smaller timeframe. You don't have this option.


Here's a question - do you know that the 1031q is clipping the image, or is it your VB50? I presume you are running a DVD composite / S-video input into the VB50, which it converts into RGB - you feed this to your PJ via an Extron. If you connect a computer monitor to the VB50 (or extron, if you can), can you see all of the DVD image?

ie - how do you know that the image clipping is the fault of the projector?


Pete

 

[Jawhn]

Pete


Thanks for the response. I have read Guy's GREAT focus thread, but I read and went through the whole thing again. I was able to considerably improve (not perfect, but a lot closer) my focus. I also re-adjusted my G2, and things are a lot better.


If the VB50 is causing the shift , that should be remedied shortly. My wife (what a woman) just bought me an Iscan V.2, which should be here by tomorrow. I'll post the results.


BTW: The VB50 is for sale?


Jawhn

 

[Vic C]

Have you adjusted the electronic focus or just the wing nuts on the lenses?


If you just adjust the wing nuts on the lense you can only get it as sharp as the tube focus, and if the tube focus is not right you will only get it as good as the tube...


You need to remove the entire plastic shell of the projector not just the access screen but the whole cover with the exception of the front pannel where the lenses pop through.


On the side of the red tube you will see a ceramic white box with 6 pots. 3 for focus and 3 for screen DONT TOUCH SCREEN unless you know what your doing


What you need to do is look directly into the lenses with a picture either paused or playing and turn the focus control for that tube. There labled R, G and B. Set them until the image on the tube face is perfectly focused. You will most like have to redo center and edge focus with the lense wing nuts now, but thats ok.


The SCREEN controls you ask? well these are the "G2" settings. You need to display a completly black screen. Not just no input but a black movie scene. I usually find a spot on a DVD just before the movie starts just after the movie company logo, like after it says DREAMWORKS or SKG. It gets totally black for a second. You may ned to use the pause button and frame by frame to find the exact black screen. Now look at the tubes.


They should not be emmiting ANY light. If they are you need to adjust the SCREEN controls. Again, look directly into the tube. You will most likely see the rasters glowing. Turn the control SLOWLY, you go too fast and you WILL burn the tube or short it out. One direction it will make the tube brighter and the other way it gets darker. You set this control until the raster is just to the point before its starting to emmit any light. Do this to all 3 guns and your set. You should do this with the brightness and contrast set t the mid position. You will more then likely have to reset your brightness, contrast and tint for a more accurate grey scale, but it will now be possible to get a perfect color balance with deep rich blacks and vibrant colors that seem to jump off the screen.


You will need to adjust the RGB H shift knob at the rear of the projector. I am running a DWIN LD5 line doubler and with an RGB signal feeding these units it appears shifted if the knob is at the center detent. Mine is set just slightly clock wise of center detent for a perfectly centered image. This is normal as both my 1031Q's did this.

 

[penticton102]

best advice i ever took for my 1031q and it improved the performance of it by 100%, the picture went from very nice to most exellent, thanks again vic!.........

 

[gravymaker]

Jawhn,


Were you able to solve the side-to-side keystoning problem?

 

[Vic C]

Thanks for the refrance penticton102.


Yea, once I learned how to do this and what those screen controls were for I couldnt beleive how night and day the image was. Its true for perfect color representation you have to start with a perfect grey scale and tint.

 

[penticton102]

yea vic that bit of sage advice for setting up a 1031q should be required reading for all newbies , its pretty impressive what a big beautiful picture one can get with a little sony 1031q that is set up properly, now do you have any advice for tweakitis, especially when the movie starts and half way through one gets a incredible urge to put up a grid to do some tweakin?

 

[Jawhn]

Pete,


After changing to the Iscan my image shift problem is solved (it moved over as soon as I installed it).


Vic,


I already used the focus pots on the side of the to focus on the tube face. I've also done the G2 adjustments already and it made a HUGE improvement in PQ.


BTW: my last PJ was an NEC 9PG+, so I may be expecting too much.


Gravymaker,


The side-to-side keystoning problem is still there. It acts just like a alignment issue ( my tilt is near max on Red & Blue) but:


I've now checked the alignment 7 times (the last 2 with help from 2 different friends who have PS's).

I have used a level on the screen (Horz & Vert) and the PJ (left to right & front to back).

I measured from center edge of screen and also from dead center and 4 corners of screen, to center edge of Green lens (both sides) as well as front and rear corner of PJ. Same numbers on both sides and from opposite corners.

This one's really got me stumped!

I centered the all 3 rasters on the tube faces, with the lenses off, with a tape measure.

 

[Vic C]

enticton102 Depending on the type of source you running the internal grids dont do you any good! Its good for video only set up but if your running a line doubler foreget them as there only good for 15Hz(video)


If you running a line doubler use a THX Optimode disk and use the video test Hatch pattern to converge.


Once you get this machine fully st up you wont have to mess with convergence for 6 months or more. Mine is rock solid and I dont need to touch it up for at least 5 months.

 

[ffou]

I run my 1031 with an ISCAN ULTRA. The picture is great, more punchy better defined than with my old ISCAN PRO, but the problem remains the same:

I miss image on left and right sides of the screen, about 5% each.

Is there something to do?


Thanks

Fred

 

[Vic C]

FFOU,


You need to adjust the main width control and streach it to fill up the screen. If you run out of width control you will need to basicly set it back to the mid position and use each CRT's width coil inside the PJ under the convergence board. You need special tools to adjust them or you'll break them or even electrocute your self.


There is a center ferrite hex head that youll need to adjust for each CRT's width. Its a bit of work to get them just right but hopefully your main width control is all you need to mess with right now.

 

[Tinman]

Check the blanking pots on the DA board under the convergence board. BTW, putting a set of 4 pole astig magnets in my 1030Q1 has further improved focus. No blooming at moderate brightness anymore either. Just another tidbit.


Marc

 

[ffou]

Tinman, you wrote:


B]"putting a set of 4 pole astig magnets in my 1030Q "[/b]


I'm french and don't understand quite well.

Would you detail what you're talking about?

What are those magnets?


Thanks


Fred