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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am considering replacing my SVS PB12 with a DIY sub. My budget is 750 but I am a true newbie. With friends help I can follow designs and get it built but I'm still not certain as to go with a sealed or a ported (sonotub) design. I have room for either in my theater room (but no room for a baffle setup).


I've read the sealed are easier for those of us inexperienced.....


I really like my current sub but of course I want more.


Any suggestions on which way to go and if sealed (which components)...I've already received some ported component suggestions in another thread.


thx
 

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The 15" TC-3000 ( www.tcsounds.com ) performs well in a relatively small sealed enclosure with a couple kilowatts of power. Buying the driver, amp, preamp and enclosure materials will push you over 750.00 if you buy everything at retail though.
 

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The parameters for making woofers work are no longer a kind of voodoo that only special people can figure out. Thiele and Small developed a series of woofer parameters and measurements and put them together. Google WINISD from linear Team, and download their completely free software.


With this, you can model both sealed and vented woofer boxes. You can have the port size determined for you scientifically. You can then build the box you need without much effort on your part at all. And you can learn a great deal in the process. WIKI Thiele/Small and you can get accurate definitions of all the parameters.


Have fun!


Marlboro
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/0


The 15" TC-3000 ( www.tcsounds.com ) performs well in a relatively small sealed enclosure with a couple kilowatts of power. Buying the driver, amp, preamp and enclosure materials will push you over 750.00 if you buy everything at retail though.

What amp and pre-amp would you recommend with the TC-3000?


thanks
 

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You know, the only difference between building a sealed vs. ported enclosure is a hole you cut into one of the sides and a tube you glue in place. I really don't see why ported should be off limits to a noob.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattlock /forum/post/0


What amp and pre-amp would you recommend with the TC-3000?


thanks

For an amp, Behringer EP2500 as mentioned. http://www.behringer.com/EP2500/index.cfm?lang=ENG


Preamp, Behringer Feedback Destroyer Pro (BFD). http://www.behringer.com/FBQ2496/index.cfm?lang=ENG

If you want to spend a little more, you can get the Ultracurve Pro. Granted it has more functions than you'd ever want, but it's what I use and love it.
http://www.behringer.com/DEQ2496/index.cfm?lang=ENG
 

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As a starter sub sealed is always the easy way to go. I decided to build cabinets,several sealed to house drivers like the TC-3000 among others.


Not ported is a big deal to build.The bigger deal and is to make sure the sub will not be underported,and proper flaring in place. Plus the ideal tuning of these is ...VERY DEEP,and this means long ports (a la HSU Turbo).



Start sealed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEAR /forum/post/0


As a starter sub sealed is always the easy way to go. I decided to build cabinets,several sealed to house drivers like the TC-3000 among others.


Not ported is a big deal to build.The bigger deal and is to make sure the sub will not be underported,and proper flaring in place. Plus the ideal tuning of these is ...VERY DEEP,and this means long ports (a la HSU Turbo).



Start sealed.

Thanks, I've got the perfect place for a long port (sonotube) in my theater. Was thinking of replacing my PB12 with a sonosub in the corner.
 

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I would say if you got the room for a larger enclosure, go for ported. A Tc 2000 and a buttkicker amp/ Behringer EP1500 (in bridged mono mode) in 320l enclosure tuned to around 14hz/15hz will be HT sub to be reckoned with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerm357 /forum/post/0


I would say if you got the room for a larger enclosure, go for ported. A Tc 2000 and a buttkicker amp/ Behringer EP1500 (in bridged mono mode) in 320l enclosure tuned to around 14hz/15hz will be HT sub to be reckoned with.

sorry for the basics...but what do you mean by "320L"?
 

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320l = 320liter. The measure of volume in the civilized portions of the world.


Yeah, I thought I was civilized until spent 10 days visiting my son the nuclear physicist in Karlsruhe, Germany, and discovered I didn't even know how to hold my eating utensils.


Liters!


Marlboro(who lives in the USA)
 

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I have been employed by the government for nearly 31 years, so you can rest assured that I don't know how to do anything. I have built one sub. It is ported. It sounds great. Ther other guys here can tell you how to do it.


If I can do it, it can't be that hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Keck /forum/post/0


I have been employed by the government for nearly 31 years, so you can rest assured that I don't know how to do anything. I have built one sub. It is ported. It sounds great. Ther other guys here can tell you how to do it.


If I can do it, it can't be that hard.


Thanks for the encouragement Jack.


Mattlock
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/0


For an amp, Behringer EP2500 as mentioned. http://www.behringer.com/EP2500/index.cfm?lang=ENG


Preamp, Behringer Feedback Destroyer Pro (BFD). http://www.behringer.com/FBQ2496/index.cfm?lang=ENG

If you want to spend a little more, you can get the Ultracurve Pro. Granted it has more functions than you'd ever want, but it's what I use and love it.
http://www.behringer.com/DEQ2496/index.cfm?lang=ENG

//thread highjack


What makes the Behringer stuff so great? Is it just a good value or is it really good sounding stuff?


I'm thinking a DIY sub would be a fun project, and I think I can get a deal on Behringer through a friend whose company is a dealer.


I've seen a few recommendations for Internet Direct drivers like TC Sounds. Are there any driver brands that a pro/commercial audio dealer might carry that I could look for in addition to the ID brands (assuming my friend can get me a deal, so instead of full retail they would be a comparable value to the ID brands)?


//end thread highjack
 

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There isn't really a market for DIY HT subs in retail, theres a lot for car subs, but not for HT. Car subs are designed for very high spl's, decent power handling, but lower excursion. HT subs are designed for good sound quality and high excursion, (in general).


The reason why behringer is so highly recommended is because their amps are an excellent value, they are indeed quite overrated with power specs, but even still they are amazing performers. The EP2500 is spec'd at 2400watts, it really delivers about 1500watts, the EP1500 is rated at 1400watts, it really delivers about 900. When you consider that the EP2500 costs about $300 retail and can be had for far less, it is really a remarkable deal.


If you can do a sonosub, I have several designs that work very well. First of all, the tried and true TC2k has already been recommended, it used to be the value leader for many people here, but some new subs have been introduced that have sure put an interesting spin on things. The TC1k is very similar to the 2k, with just 4mm less xmax (24mm instead of 28mm) it costs $120 less and can really dish out more sound for the $$$. Another consideration is the SoundSplinter RL-p18, it is a highly competitive 18" with a very beefy motor and models extremely well for large sonosubs, it dishes out an incredible amount of output and doesn't need tons of power to do it either.


So here are my two additional ideas

1x TC1k 15" in a 340L enclosure tuned to 14Hz powered with a Behringer A500- the driver and amp only cost less than $300 shipped


1x SS RL-p18 in a 20cubic foot enclosure tuned to 12.5Hz powered with an EP1500 or 2500, you are looking at about $750 for this project
 
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