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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all. Thought I'd start this since I'm just about finished.

Dry fitting:


Popped for some clamps from HF. Grabbed some Titebond III and went to work:


Not meaning to, but a cursory "annoitment" :rolleyes:


Found some Masonite/hardboard laying about and utilized Matt's XOver layout. Fudged it a bit a made it a bit bigger. Little did I know I screwed myself with the leads coming up short in places. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake:


All wired up. I was meaning to use terminal blocks, but the spacing didn't pan out...


... and the back:



The cabinet was dead simple to assemble. The crossover, not so much. I know my way around a soldering iron (from hard, volt-modding video cards way back), but this was another animal. Not bad, just a bit nerve-racking.

Didn't want to pop for a Forstner bit, so a went with a 2" hole saw and only went 1/8" deep. Followed with a spade bit for the central hole. Will remove the excess to flush mount the Neutrik connector.

Stuffed with Ultratouch. Not coincidentally, the 15" wide R13 perforations just matched the spacing between the horizontal bracing in this cabinet. Nice planning, Erich!

Finish will likely be Restore 4X, but I may hold off for a while until I give these a good run-in.

These will be done next weekend.

@desertdome,

You and Greg are MORE than welcome to come for a listen, seeing as how hospitable you both were during the sub GTG! Should be simple to EQ with the NanoAVR.
 

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Hello all. Thought I'd start this since I'm just about finished.

Test for photo linkage:



Help. What is the preferred method of including images in posts?
You need to put ?raw=1 after your dropbox link for it to show up correctly. However, the image is sized way to big for a normal webpage. You might consider reducing your images to about 1000 pixels wide.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/gw2kmm87khkx80c/AABx89JxDopxp2agBhZw-7Oda?raw=1

An alternative is to click the paperclip at the top of the thread message box and upload pictures from your computer. (these will forever stay with the thread on AVS). Then click Preview Post to see the thumbnail of the image. Right click the thumbnail and open in new tab. Cut and past the the new tab's url in between img tags.

When can I come over and listen to these? :)
 

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If you use a PC click the advanced reply tab and get the full reply box. Then below the reply box use he attachment tool to attach your images. Once they are attached open them up in a new browser tab and copy the web url link of the picture and add
after the links. It will embed the pictures at a proper size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the "tech support" fellas!

FIXED and UPDATED.
 

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FYI the red part of the inductor wires isn't conductive so you might want to alter that part of the crossover. Solder onto the silver ends

Yep might not be a good connection unless you scraped the coating away before soldering. Also the closeness of the wire just above that is a little worrying. Potential short right there, nothing harmful if those do touch but it will bypass part of the crossover. Maybe a piece of electrical tape around one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well spotted, niktak11! I would have spent a long time chasing that down without that kind of input! Thank you VERY much!!!


Matt,


I'll pull out the desoldering wick and attempt to scratch through the varnish/enamel coating. Completely agree that the lines being too close for comfort. Funny you should mention that as my other has EVERY connection covered in electrical tape! looks similar to this:


 

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Will you be using this for your center channel as well? I too would love to hear your impressions as I am leaning towards the Sentinels for L/C/R. Would love to see pic of the Neutrik connector once mounted as well. Enjoying the build thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Thanks, Larry! I will certainly let you know. Not sure how much my opinion is worth considering I'm coming from the opposite end of the spectrum (full Mirage omnipolar set-up) and not many other points of reference except HuskerOmaha's SHO-10s and desertdome's LS6s.


mrc,


Yes, that is the ultimate plan. For the time being, I will just run the L&R with a phantom center until I build an AT screen (lots of good info on the spandex DIY screens on the forum.) It's going to be hard to part with my 133", 2.8 gain, High Power screen though...
Yeah, the cheapskate in me won out on this one, but it will turn out quite well. In the spirit of compete disclosure, I needed a 7/8" hole to insert the Neutrik connector, but all I had was a 3/4" spade bit. Dremel to the rescue!!




I'll try and ad some more photos to the thread.


Dem boxes look hungry for some drivers...
 

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careful with the stuffing, it can effect your port tune.

On this picture:




Is there a center piece missing ^ It looks like you can see through the center of the speak on terminal? Did you remove something?

Mine always looked solid:




You want them air tight.
I think that's just the camera's flash showing the bottom inside surfaces and making it look weird.

I sure love flush mounted Speakon terminals!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I appreciate you taking notice of potential issues.
Nothing was removed from the connector. It remains a sealed unit. Must be the illumination from the flash and a straight-on camera angle that make it look like you can see through it.


Good point about the stuffing. The bottom 6" of the cabinet are unlined. I'll ensure that there is no blocking of the ports, but Matt specifically suggested 2"-3" of dampening material.
 

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What size Forstner bit for the Neutrik connector? 2"?

Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D1015...d=1426094404&sr=8-10&keywords=forstner+bit+2"

and then:
7/8" spade bit for the center hole?
There is a Neutrik drawing available on their site but I believe it's a 2" for the outer diameter and then just under a 1" for the barrel. I used forstners for both.

EDIT: Yes, the drawing shows .929" as the barrel diameter. A 1" bit works nicely.
http://www.neutrik.us/zoolu-website/media/download/2499/Drawing+NL4MPR
 

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Good point about the stuffing. The bottom 6" of the cabinet are unlined. I'll ensure that there is no blocking of the ports, but Matt specifically suggested 2"-3" of dampening material.

Yeah I think you have the correct amount in there, placed where it should be, in fact you could line the back all the way to the bottom if you wanted. Ports are short enough that the material there won't effect them.

I did find that in the enclosure port tuning did come in a littler lower then expected with the included ports, not related to damping. You can cut the ports down a little to around 3" long for a bit more output in the 50-70hz range. But I would try them out at full length before modifying the ports.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah I think you have the correct amount in there, placed where it should be, in fact you could line the back all the way to the bottom if you wanted. Ports are short enough that the material there won't effect them.

Awesome! Good to know. It's not like I have a shortage of ultratouch now! (I'll likely use them for simple 1st reflection panels.)

I did find that in the enclosure port tuning did come in a littler lower then expected with the included ports, not related to damping. You can cut the ports down a little to around 3" long for a bit more output in the 50-70hz range. But I would try them out at full length before modifying the ports.

Interesting... I'll check my in-room response before I go cutting on anything. My original plan was to build these sealed. Maybe I can "repurpose" those bar clamps to hold some material over the port holes to test. Would love to hear it's response completely sealed, not just with the bung plugs!
 

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There is a Neutrik drawing available on their site but I believe it's a 2" for the outer diameter and then just under a 1" for the barrel. I used forstners for both.

EDIT: Yes, the drawing shows .929" as the barrel diameter. A 1" bit works nicely.
http://www.neutrik.us/zoolu-website/media/download/2499/Drawing+NL4MPR
This. I used a 7/8th and it was tight... hit is for a second with a small sanding drum in the drill. 1" is a tad too big, but works fine.

2" for the outer. I bought a RYOBI kit for $20 had a bunch of sizes in it at HD. I posted some pictures in my TD15M DNA360 active thread.
 
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