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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what happened to all the attempts with aluminized mylar and frosted coatings ?


i thought these were going to do really well.


i still have my huge roll of aluminized mylar if anyone wants samples to play with.


its been a little over 1 year but i remember my first attempts were very promising.


have a marquee 8000 coming soon so will be able to do some real tests and screenshots.


anybody still trying this route or was it a dead-end ?


archive search turned-up only the few threads from a year ago.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by snkby
what happened to all the attempts with aluminized mylar and frosted coatings ?


i thought these were going to do really well.


i still have my huge roll of aluminized mylar if anyone wants samples to play with.


its been a little over 1 year but i remember my first attempts were very promising.


have a marquee 8000 coming soon so will be able to do some real tests and screenshots.


anybody still trying this route or was it a dead-end ?


archive search turned-up only the few threads from a year ago.
FS, though excellent in its own right, seems to yield to SD/MM aka 'Light Fusion' due to cost factors. To my knowledge only one was ever produced (a MissMan exclusive). The application IS still open and your mylar approach may be just the ticket for a cost effective FS solution. Watcha waitin' fer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i have about 25'-30' of it on the roll.


i got it from a friend that had it for years and just wanted to get rid of it so it is not exactly pristine stuff.


but it is plenty useable for experimenting.


i will stop today at a ahem! --horticultural supply store-- and ask pricing/width/etc.


the stuff is mylar but with a mirror-like surface.


very reflective and not dull at all.


i remember a post of someone taking their sample of screen outside and using direct sunlight to check for hotspotting.


i think i will have enough time and daylight to try a square with some of this frosted/translucent plastic?/paper? we have on top of the mylar.


let me know if any of you would like a sample of the mylar to experiment with.
 

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Another good source for mylar "ahem" is at the party supply store. :D They used to carry it in wide rolls for table cloths, but may only carry the 36" wrapping paper variety now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
grow shop and its only $1prft for the nice 2mil stuff or $.50prft for the cheaper thinner stuff.


the smallest roll they had was 25' for $25.


i cut a small sample piece in half then pushed the cut ends together and there is pretty much no seam visible from even 1' away.


then i overlapped the ends and same thing.


so im thinking that from a regular viewing distance and with the frosted overlay seams should not be an issue for someone wanting taller than 54" screen.


no chance to monkey today so will now have to wait for the weekend.


seems that the most difficult thing will be figuring out how to adhere the frosted stuff onto the mylar.


maybe plain ol 3m spray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
self-adhesive frosted plastic films.


i ordered all non-tinted samples because my pj is crt but they did have some versions with grey/charcoal tint that might suit the lcd/dlp crowd.


and also just realized that the frosted paper i had tried last year was vellum paper.


jeez its been over 20 years since i worked as a design draftsman and had to make blueprints !


i will stick with cad and plotters!! :)


goint to hit-up a local drafting outfit that does large format plots.


they should have some pieces of various vellum papers.


hmmm..............and a client of mine owns a glass shop that specializes in sand/bead-blasting and acid etching.


he will probably have some good ideas.
 

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What are the self adhesive films you're using? Like window tinting? That will be near impossible to avoid bubbles.


What about a simple overlay? if you can pull both the mylar and the overlying material taught, you might avoid the need for adhesive...
 

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I thought about experimenting with this a while back but just never had the time. I may be interested in getting a sample from you if it's not too much trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i will try to send at least a 1sqft piece.


or whatever conveniently sized envelope about that size anyway.


i am doing a ht installation right now for a guy that works at a newspaper printing shop.


he runs some of the printers.


im going to ask him about pressing a sheet of the self-adhesive frosted film to the mirrored mylar an a printer-roll.


im thinking that type of pressure-roll should eliminate any chance of airbubbles ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
complete it ?


i didnt even get to start it !!!


actually not surprising seeing as i didnt even have a working pj in the house until 2 days ago. :)


just doing the first part of the set-up on my marquee 8000 tomorrow.


the other day though i did contact my friend that owns the glass shop and he said he had some 1/8" mirror we could experiment with acids and bead blasting.


but i think the best route will still be first-surface mirror with some translucent film/cloth/etc directly on top of it.


still have to get some folks the silver mylar samples i promised.


now that i have a pj in the house the incentive to experiment is pretty high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
kinda excited today as i stopped at joanns fabrics and bought some bo cloth for the first diy screen but also very important is that i asked the woman helping me if she could recommend a white fabric that was very uniform and translucent.


and she took to me to some stuff that is very white --compared to the bo cloth-- and uniform texture like fine silk and also translucent but you can see through it only when something is very close behind it.


i will get some second-surface mirror samples plus some silver mylar on posterboard and put the fabric on them and take screenshots of the samples against the stock bo cloth for comparison.


the stuff is so thin and sheer that maybe multiple layers will be the trick.


recently took a break from audio madness/tweaking and looking forward to some video madness/tweaking. :)
 

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WHat's the stuff called, snkby? If it's so white, I wonder if a layer of it would help boost a plain old BO screen?


I'll be eager to hear your reports on the results of testing it on mylar!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hey garyfritz !


i have some silvered mylar in a tube with your name on it.


its going to the post office tomorrow.


i laid the sheer white fabric --dont know what its called as i was too excited and forgot to ask-- on a piece of the silvered mylar and it shone white as white can be.


the mylar was reflecting the fabric on the backside so the section that had the mylar looked like it was illuminated.


just got home --early day-- and having some chow but will get a large piece of the mylar and take some pix later.


son needs some attention now so gotta go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
took a bunch of pix but i need to learn how to use the manual settings.


so far though the sample seems just a bit brighter but not a big difference.


have to wait until tomorrow to get the wife to download the pix as its her camera.
 

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I have produced a similar screen with SM on Vellum (.05 gloss on one side, matte on the other). I like the effect and the ease of production. I can only compare it to HCCV and my original ME screens. My observations are as follows:


1. Seems to have all the attributes of the HCCV with the following exceptions:

a. The SMV (silver metallic on Vellum) is not as "sparkley" as HCCV.

b. SMV does not seem to have quite the reflectivity of the HCCV but it is not far off and "I" prefer the slightly dimmer picture with less of the "shimmer".


2. SMV has the same look and apparent contrast as ME when viewed in a light controlled room (a good thing) with only a slightly more apparent SDE (a bad thing).


3. SMV is tremendous in ambient light vs. ME. While the over all picture is "dark" in a full lit room it is much more viewable and richer (less washed out) and makes for great viewing of daytime sport events. Leave the LOTR viewing for the night time though.


4. Vellum is relatively fragile and will tear easily, crease and other wise be a pain in the "" so you needed 2 people to handle while painting and mounting on a backer.


5. compared to frosted tinting on a mirror this is much more satisfying as it does not tend to hot spot like the frosted film. I also speculate that the vellum being an ashy Grey adds to its ambient light rejection.



I have removed my original SMV as it had "production" flaws and I had intended to produce a corrected version the following weekend. I am now using my original ME screen but I will be making a new one when time permits as it is a much better compromise in my viewing environment.
 

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hello,

May i ask were you got your Vellum???



thanks,

lesko
 
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