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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this is my first ever calibration. I used Chromasoft with a i1 Display Pro III meter. Granted, I didn't have very far to go to get things in line, but I did note that my gamma seemed a bit low.


I was curious if anyone could tell me why my gamma came out so low and how I might go about boosting it correctly? Also if you have any other feedback for a calibration newbie, I'm all ears. Also, should I even bother with trying to calibrate the "Dynamic" mode?


This calibration was done on the THX mode.


I'm including the report PDF as a link since it was too big for the forum post:
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntiGenX /forum/post/20828042


So this is my first ever calibration. I used Chromasoft with a i1 Display Pro III meter. Granted, I didn't have very far to go to get things in line, but I did note that my gamma seemed a bit low.


I was curious if anyone could tell me why my gamma came out so low and how I might go about boosting it correctly? Also if you have any other feedback for a calibration newbie, I'm all ears. Also, should I even bother with trying to calibrate the "Dynamic" mode?


This calibration was done on the THX mode.


I'm including the report PDF as a link since it was too big for the forum post:

Do you have a gamma setting on your projector? If you do, you will want to choose a higher/darker gamma (at least 2.2 overall).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U /forum/post/20828417


Do you have a gamma setting on your projector? If you do, you will want to choose a higher/darker gamma (at least 2.2 overall).

Sorry, I should have mentioned that. The gamma is set for 2.2. I was thinking about boosting it to 2.4 and doing a recalibration, but I wanted make sure there wasn't something else I was supposed to do.
 

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Greetings


Just like 6500K is pretty much never what it says it is on a TV ... expecting a gamma setting that says 2.2 to be 2.2 would be naive. Simply try them out and find the one that gets you somewhere in the 2.2 to 2.6 range.


regards
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael tlv /forum/post/20828626


greetings


just like 6500k is pretty much never what it says it is on a tv ... Expecting a gamma setting that says 2.2 to be 2.2 would be naive. Simply try them out and find the one that gets you somewhere in the 2.2 to 2.6 range.


Regards

2.6?
 

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Thanks for posting,

I'm going to be calibrating an Epson 8700ub for my brother. I'll be using CalMan and an OEM i1Display meter. Did you have any trouble with meter placement? I've read that the i1Display is sensitive with placement. Thanks again for posting your results. Even though it's different software, it gives me an idea of what to expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectronicTonic
Thanks for posting,

I'm going to be calibrating an Epson 8700ub for my brother. I'll be using CalMan and an OEM i1Display meter. Did you have any trouble with meter placement? I've read that the i1Display is sensitive with placement. Thanks again for posting your results. Even though it's different software, it gives me an idea of what to expect.
I didn't have any problem with meter placement. Though if you're using the new i1 Display 3, Tom Huffman (developer of ChromaSoft) says it should be tilted on the horizontal plane instead of the vertical one.


The one thing that I noticed that had the most effect on my calibrating was contrast and brightness. Those have to be correct. I used the flashing bar patterns from AVS test pattern disc.


Make sure you turn off "Epson Super White." It sounds like a good thing, but really what it does is clip the Whiter than White (WtW) and Blacker than Black (BtB) from the signal. It also makes it impossible to set brightness and contrast well because it seems to have to side effects on the rest of the signal. If it's on, you won't get any flashing in the WtW and BtB areas. When I had it on, I couldn't find a good setting with Brightness and Contrast that allowed both the whites to be bright and the blacks to be dark at the same time.


I'm going to calibrate again tonight (or maybe later this week) after bumping up the gamma from 2.2 to 2.4 to see if I can get closer to 2.2 (as suggested by Michael TLV, above). You may notice in my report that the gamma is around 1.9~2.0, even though it set to 2.2. You may have to do the same.


Also, I know some people use the full screen patterns on projectors because they don't have the power problems that plasma and lcds have when using them, but I still used the window patterns. I did this because my room does have some light bounce issues and my walls are red. I didn't want the meter to read any extra red from wall reflections on the bright full screen patterns.


Now as for the color patterns, I have read some folks recommend using the 75% Saturation CIE patterns when doing their readings, but I couldn't get good results this way so I stuck with the 100% saturation.


Hope that helps!
 

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I too am new to caibration but thought I'd chime in.


Is gamma correction not done via the same settings as greyscale (IE RGB High End/Low End or 10 step IRE)?


Because thats how I adjusted my gamma, which achieved a straight line @ 2.2.


IE, change RGB values for each IRE point so they are A. Balance and B. At the correct gamma. (in other words, given 0,0,0 is balanced accross the board, 20,20,20 would change gamma but still be balanced, -20,-20,-20 would change gamma but still be balanced).


Am I right?


Pre vs Post gamma (I did further adjusting after this screenshot and got a perfect line): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...n/8-9Gamma.jpg
 
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