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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Hi, I apologize in advance if these questions have been answered before, but reading through here for the past couple hours, after spending a while researching projector placement, screen sizing, and material choices, I have a couple concerns.

I am going to buy a W1070, and mount it about 13 ft from the wall where my speakers are currently mounted. By my math, that means I should make a screen about 120"x70". The spandex seems to come on 60" wide rolls, is the stretch of the material enough for this to be feasible?

With a 13ft screen-to-couch distance, I think this size screen should work fine, but I'm wondering about the height. The general rule I read was 1/3 of the way up the screen should be at eye level, how important is that? Is a foot difference up or down gonna make a huge difference?

Thanks in advance for any response.
 

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If you are doing a spandex screen for acoustic transparency you will only have a gain of about 0.8. Assuming that you are doing mostly TV and gaming and therefore are looking at a 16:9 format for your screen, the dimensions would be 120" wide by 68" tall for a 138" diagonal screen
 

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Sorry, I managed to hit the submit button accidentally before I was finished. You should mount the projector at 12', which is within 6" of the minimum distance for that size screen. That will still only give you a brightness of 14 fl. That is quite watchable but if you watch with ambient light, you might want to consider a screen that is about 120" diagonal (59'x104"). The spandex will stretch enough either way if you buy the 4-way stretch material that is about 20% spandex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Thank you so much for the info! I ordered 3 yards each of the Milliskin Matte in Silver & White from spandexworld.com, which seems to be the common supplier around here.

I intend to build a frame out of some 1x4's with through mortise & tenon joints, I've heard good things about "screen tight" for holding the stretched fabric, we'll see how it goes... hopefully in a week's time I'll have a beautiful new screen.

I think I'm gonna stick with the bigger screen for now, worst case scenario I can always use velvet to block off to get a 120" screen! Thanks again!
 

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Remember to add 2" to each dimension of your frame if you want to add a velvet wrapped mdf border. I have a "zero edge" screen and it loos great too if you have a dark background. "Screen tight" is a good decision. It takes a little longer to do, but it makes it much easier if you want to experiment with silver over white for improved picture in ambient light or any other fabrics in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

While experimentation is a great plus, I am using screen tight out of necessity- I need to be able to easily break down, move, and reassemble in the inevitable apartment shift that will occur sooner or later. Renting has some perks, but that isn't one of them!

By "Add 2 inches" do you mean to my measurements when I'm hanging it or just make the frame 2" bigger each way?
 

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Make the frame 2" larger than your finished screen size. This will allow 2" for the trim to cover the screen and still wind up with the screen size you wanted. The 2" overlap allows the trim to be nailed to the screen frame using finish nails that can be sunk into the velvet trim so as not to show. If you search the threads for "velvet wrapped mdf" you will find more info.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahajr143  /t/1521110/first-time-screen-builders-at-questions#post_24443770


Remember to add 2" to each dimension of your frame if you want to add a velvet wrapped mdf border. I have a "zero edge" screen and it loos great too if you have a dark background. "Screen tight" is a good decision. It takes a little longer to do, but it makes it much easier if you want to experiment with silver over white for improved picture in ambient light or any other fabrics in the future.

Would you mind sharing some pics of your zero edge screen or a link to your build thread? TIA
 

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I was finally able to take some shots of the screen. I had trouble getting a shot of the whole screen; probably because I was using autofocus. The first movie shot was with all lights on full and the Epson 8100 on Theater Black 1 setting. The second movie shot is with the lights out. I hope this helps!



 

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I too have a zero edge screen. The wall behind it is painted a really dark gray. While watching a movie you just don't see that there is no border. My screen is a 16x9. I don't have any complaints about the letterbox bars while watching a Blueray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

I have encountered a bit of a problem- while stretching the spandex to fit in the frame, I can't seem to avoid having a big bunch of slack, is there a tutorial on how to approach attaching the screen to avoid this? 

Here is a picture, it is the bottom right area:

 

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I suggest that you read through this thread http://www.avsforum.com/t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen . When you stretch the spandex you only want to stretch it as tightly as you need to remove the wrinkles. Start in the middle of the width of the screen at the top and bottom and roll about a foot of spine to secure it and work your way to each of the ends, stretching slightly as you go. Next, start in the middle of the screen height on both sides and work your way to the corners. If you stretch evenly you should not have a problem with the fabric bunching in the corner.
 

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I should have added that once the fabric is stretched evenly and you are sure that there are not any wrinkles you can then trim off any excess fabric with scissors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

Thanks for the advice! After a trip to our local Home Depot, a pile of clamps were purchased and that greatly facilitated matters. Along with following your strategy of starting in the middle and working outwards concurrently, we were able to get the first layer done in no time flat, and the second layer done just as fast! A bunch of eyehole screws later, it's looking good! Now to trim the white and get some curtains to block it in...


 

edit: some pictures of the build. the mitered corners were all done with a jigsaw, as you can imagine they aren't exactly perfect 45 degree cuts, but they are close enough.

Making sure it will fit, after cutting and securing the boards that make up the frame:



 

Screen Tight frame installed, closeup of a corner:


 

First layer completed, before cutting:



 

Second layer completed, before hanging:

 

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It is looking pretty good, but for a frame that size you should have at least one vertical brace in the middle of the length of the frame. That will prevent any chance of the corners torsioning and coming out of square and flat plane. If your frame is sturdy enough (and it looks fairly sturdy) this may not be needed but a brace will also reduce any chance of warping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

That is the next thing I am going to do- It is out of true and unfortunately I don't have any way to take it down and fix it for at least a couple weeks now.
 

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It looks as though you have designed it to have a velvet wrapped mdf border surrounding the screen. If you are going for a zero edge screen you will need to wrap the spandex completely around the front of the frame and attach to the screen tight on the back of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

Yes, I am indeed planning to make a velvet border. The walls in the room are painted white, so the border will help with perceived contrast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·

There are several, a search for "screen tight" in this forum should point you in the right direction.
 
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